Hollisterkiid92

[QUOTE="Hollisterkiid92;10504972"]Would it make any difference trying to straighten the pan if it was warped?[QUOTE]

This is what mine looks like, it leaks from this side an u can tell where its wet.

MainePorsche

Wouldn't hurt to try. The worst that could happen is it wouldn't work out, and you'd be where you are now. I have the feeling you're going to be getting a new pan though.

MainePorsche

You know since you added the pic, I got to thinking about an issue that happened to me. Your leak is in proximity to the reservoir and it mounting hardware. On two occasions when I did the fluid service, my gasket 'lipped' in this area that was not really visible. I only noted it by the leak. From now on I will remove the reservoir hardware when 'fitting' the pan (note that my hardware is slightly different than yours) in order to completely visualize the setting of the gasket/pan to transmission body.
You may want to remove the hardware and have a good look at the status of the gasket in that area.

Tails

The large pan A28 auto box was manufactured by Mercedes Benz and the type number is 722.3 series auto transmission described as a 722.3 4 speed /6 bolt/Large Case .

In 1994 MB changed the pan gasket to a more robust gasket part number 126 217 11 80, as the original gaskets split within one week of fitting with subsequent ATF leakage. I purchased a pan gasket from Official Porsche Centre in 2002 and it was the old type gasket number 126 271 10 80, so Porsche was selling the old type gasket 8 year after is was replaced with the new type.

I have attached the MB Technical Advice on the upgrading of the gasket.

In addition the gasket is installed dry and the pan should be tightened up diagonally in small increments so that even pull up is achieved. As the torque is so small it can be difficult to achieve a parallel tightening of the gasket. Over tightening will cause the gasket to split or if there is oil on the joint faces it can displaced.

dr bob

As with most fluid leaks, it's best to clean the whole area thoroughly, and identify the actual source of the leaking fluid. It's easy to assume that the sump gasket is leaking because that's where it's dripping. But there are more than a few other possible sources that can cause fluid to dribble from the sump. The hoses that connect to the lines at the cooler, the o-ringed covers for the piston cans, the reservoir cap and the seal where the reservoir connects to the pipe on the sump, the torque converter seal, front pump seal. Fluid leaks from those and dribbles down or blows back on the bottom of the transmission.


Spend a few dollars on a couple spray cans of engine cleaner. I like the "Foamy Engine Brite". Completely clean the whole area. Use gentle spray pressure with the hose as you rinse around the electrical bits on the left side, but otherwise there's nothing to damage with serious cleaning under there. The actual source of the fluid will be a lot easier to pinpoint.

On the warped sump problem: If the sump is warped, it's almost impossible to straighten it reliably. Almost anything you do to "straighten" one area will cause problems in another. The good news is that the new sumps are relatively inexpensive, since Mercedes usesd them on lots of cars. It's been a while since I looked at them in the secondary market, but when I did they were about the same cost as a few full loads of ATF.

Hollisterkiid92

I will he checkin that today nd cleaning it nd see where It leaks if or above the gasket

upstate bob

I like permatex high tack spray-a-gasket. Blue stuff. It also comes in a can with a dauber applicator.
-never hardens and seals super. I NEVER use RTV or anything with silcone in it on an oil pan.
BB, 79/928/5sp/petrol blue
turning wrenches since 1952