crank bolt not coming loose.
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
crank bolt not coming loose.
I am beginning to think someone put thread locker on my crank bolt. I already broke one bar. I had a lot of force using a 4 ft. cheater before it broke. Any ideas on why it would be so tight other than thread locker? 87 auto.
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
#6
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Mine was really in too. I just Hung on it with an impact for a loooooong time. I think after about 45 min of waiting on the compressor to catch up n hitting it again, it came lose.
#7
Official Bay Area Patriot
Fuse 24 Assassin
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Fuse 24 Assassin
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I had to use a jack handle and a second person to break my bolt loose. It made a loud bang. After removing the bolt, I found RED LOCTITE. Expect the same thing if you are having this much trouble.
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#8
Under the Lift
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Never fails with a 4-6 foot pipe over the handle. Works well for rear axle shaft nut too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-piec...-set-5494.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-piec...-set-5494.html
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928FIXER (11-04-2019)
#10
Official Bay Area Patriot
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Fuse 24 Assassin
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I have always wondered about that 3/4" drive set at Harbor Freight. How is the quality of it for being made in either China or Taiwan?
#12
Chronic Tool Dropper
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I use the H-F 3/4"-drive deep impact sockets. They are 6-point, and the one fr the crank bolt is just the perfect length to get the handle out the front of the pulley stack. So far so good with them.
For the other important part, I have an adapter from somewhere in the past that has a hole crossways in the non-drive end, perfect for a 5-foot long demolition bar I happen to have. Slide the bar into the hole in the adapter, the socket on the nut, the adapter into the socket. Might take a little fiddling to get the bar over on the driver's side at first, but with four rotational options at the drive end and six at the driven end of the socket, it doesn't take long to get things lined up. Then a firm pull is all it takes (so far, knock on wood, etc)
For the other important part, I have an adapter from somewhere in the past that has a hole crossways in the non-drive end, perfect for a 5-foot long demolition bar I happen to have. Slide the bar into the hole in the adapter, the socket on the nut, the adapter into the socket. Might take a little fiddling to get the bar over on the driver's side at first, but with four rotational options at the drive end and six at the driven end of the socket, it doesn't take long to get things lined up. Then a firm pull is all it takes (so far, knock on wood, etc)
#13
Under the Lift
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#14
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#15
This tool makes short work of crank bolts and rear axle nuts. Most importantly it allows you to do the job safely. Don't forget to purchase the 3/4" drive sockets and 6" extension bar to use on those areas. I don't get to use it often, but when I do ... no drama!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ttn-12048/overview/
I'm sure you can find it on Ebay for a few dollars less.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ttn-12048/overview/
I'm sure you can find it on Ebay for a few dollars less.