tom-in-tempe

Was wondering if this light scoring down the boar of the tensioner is normal? Looks like it’s back in there 25 to 32mm from the edge to the first one, then there are two other ones. Must be at the transitions of the washer sets. Will it be okay to rebuild it like this? Car has 60,000 miles on it, this is its (and mine) first rebuild. I'm doing a TB/WP change also.
86 Euro A/T 16V.

SeanR

I've seen worse, at least you are rebuilding it as opposed to 90% of the "shops" that just ignore it when they string a belt.

Leon Speed

I had the same at 130K km. Sanded it down with fine grit IIRC 1000 and machine oil and called it good.

Mrmerlin

that should be OK though not optimal,
when you fit the inner clamp to the new boot,
make sure its open end faces up.
Orient the outer clamp to about 11 O clock as looking at the boot you can use end cutters to set the outer clamp ,
use a new outer clamp, squeeze till there is about 2 to 3MM on the inner area of the clamp crimp.
I use Hondabond 4 on the gasket both sides,
I also suggest to use STP oil treatment to refill the tensioner use a visene bottle with the tip drilled out,
this is to prevent over pressure of the boot thus blowing off the internal seal.
the STP seems to be able to not leak out as fast as thinner oils do,
but eventually they will all leak a bit

Use a dab of Loctite PTFE non setting pipe sealant on the tensioner bolt threads where they will seat to prevent further leaks.

To refill remove both bleeders then fill from the hole furthest from the crank,
fill the tensioner after its been fitted and then then the belt tension has been set.

Use some grease on the pin contact to tensioner arm.

Dont forget that top bolt of the tensioner goes in last to hold the center cover,
though you can install it to hold the tensioner/ gasket.

Use a dab of PTFE on the one bolt thats exposed to the oil channel so it wont leak

tom-in-tempe

Thanks everybody for all the info. I glad it’s common and don't have to replace it.

One other thing, it has no bleeders just bolts in their locations, should I replace with bleeder valves?

Mrmerlin

no the allen plugs are just plugs ,
and all will be fine,
remove them both to fill the tensioner

tom-in-tempe

k, thanks Mrmerlin, your the best.

Bill Ball

Hmmm... I'm pretty sure the tensioners, perhaps just the later ones, are "coated" inside with Teflon. I know I saw this coating flake off inside one tensioner body and we replaced it with a used one that was still intact.

Leon Speed

Didn't notice it on mine, it felt like bare metal. Could have been coated, who knows, but no peeling.