Has anyone installed Rennline rear tiedowns?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Has anyone installed Rennline rear tiedowns?
I have two 90 degree Rennline tiedowns that I want to install on the rear of my car. Rennline gave me the impression that installation would involve substituting a washer for the tiedown on the lower control arm mount. However, in looking more closely at the mounting point, the washer in question is the Eccentric disk. The solution could be to get a longer eccentric bolt, but the pic in the WSM looks like the bolt is specialized as well (I've not previously dealt with the rear suspension so am not sure how the eccentrics work there). So, what is the best way to install these tiedowns on the 928?
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Below are pics illustrating the amount of tread that would be left on the eccentric bolts if I were to simply remove the nut and put on the tie down. So it looks like there are sufficient threads for me to simply add the tie down. To retain the alignment, is it sufficient to just make a mark on the eccentric and the part it rests against, and then ensure that those two marks are lined up when I tighten the bolt?
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Yeah, the thread depth looks good to me too. Can I maintain alignment by just running a marker across the eccentric and mounting point and put it back that way? Also, is this the nut that gets 146ft lbs or 88 ftlbs? I.e., is this the camber eccentric or the track eccentric?
#7
Rennlist Member
Below are pics illustrating the amount of tread that would be left on the eccentric bolts if I were to simply remove the nut and put on the tie down. So it looks like there are sufficient threads for me to simply add the tie down. To retain the alignment, is it sufficient to just make a mark on the eccentric and the part it rests against, and then ensure that those two marks are lined up when I tighten the bolt?
Those are locknuts, which the factory specifies be replaced. Duc, the 146 ft-lbs is for the eccentric-- which these are not. I think the correct torque for these nuts is 63 ft-lb, "Bearing pivot to lower control arm", but check. I over-torqued one of the rear eccentrics and got to buy a new one
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#10
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Reminder that the rod you are attaching to "floats" to a certain extent in the various bushings and sleeves it passes through. If you put the tie-down bracket on there with a tie-down attached, suspension movement will loosen the nut. Remember to re-torque the nuts (both ends...) after you use them before you drive, and should be OK.
There's a history of this around a 928 Motorsports bracket that's worth researching.
There's a history of this around a 928 Motorsports bracket that's worth researching.
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ah, good to know. I found some posts on the 928 MS bracket when I was searching last night, wasn't aware of it. I didn't see anything about this issue with the bolts loosing, so thanks for the heads-up.
#12
Rennlist Member
You should be fine with just installing between the nut and the existing washer. As Bob said the tie down should rotate with the bolt. I would be surprised if you get much loosening of the nut with use of the tie down, error on the side of caution. Probably the easiest thing to do would be to put a little torque stripe across the nut and bolt to verify it hasn’t loosened. That way you will have a visual indicator if the nut is beginning to loosen. The tie downs you have are a slightly different design than the 928MS tie downs so you are probably better off. The 928MS tie downs bridged between the bolt and the control arm which was the primary cause of the issues they were seeing. There is a lengthy thread on them if you care to read up on the details.
Link to tie down thread
Link to tie down thread
#13
Under the Lift
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I do like this simple tie down better than the one that bridged the pin and lower sway bar strut mount.
#14
Developer
I may be disoriented, but if that is the nut on the pin that goes through the lower shock mount and the hub carrier, it is 103 ft lbs. There are 22mm nuts on either end. Get a wrench on the forward nut, and torque the rear nut.
I do like this simple tie down better than the one that bridged the pin and lower sway bar strut mount.
I do like this simple tie down better than the one that bridged the pin and lower sway bar strut mount.
The one that bridges the mount to the rear arm has the benefit of additional drop link positions (so you can get stronger sway bar posiotions without replacing your swaybar).
The first version creaked after installation, but with feedback provided by end-users we not only replaced them all but we were able to come to an improved design that no longer creaks.
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...lerearsway.php
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
@ Simon: Great idea to put markings on it.
@ Bill: So this is the "Wheel carrier to lower suspension link" (VNM 12 x 1.5; 103 ftlbs). I usually find the WSM pretty clear on this stuff, but the illustration and its connection to the items in the tightening torques is a bit confusing.
@ Bill: So this is the "Wheel carrier to lower suspension link" (VNM 12 x 1.5; 103 ftlbs). I usually find the WSM pretty clear on this stuff, but the illustration and its connection to the items in the tightening torques is a bit confusing.