STRIKEMASTER

I have an '83 euroS with a 5 speed (WPOZZZ92ZDS841138) .that I love to hate! Having just replaced an oil breather hose, I tried to fire it up after it sat for a few weeks waiting for parts and good weather, and NOTHING HAPPENED!! I have warning lights and can hear the fuel pump run, but it won't turn over! BigBlue83 ran OK before I broke the 30 year old oil breather hose, but now -NOTHING!! I charged up the battery, checked the fuses and relays, but it won't turn over. One curious thing is when I turn the ignition switch off, the alternator warning light STAYS ON. If I pull the battery ground and reconnect it the warning light go's out and stays out when I re-connect the battery. This happened once before when I first got the car, but after some poking and jiggling the car started. I don't really remember what I did except poking around with the fuse-relay box. I'm going to do the grounds(again) and check for power at the starter tomorrow. My question is could I have a bad ing. switch?? I'm moving in a month and don't really want to have to tow the car to my new place. The alt warning light going on when I turn the key off leads me to think I have a switch problem. You-all have been a great help to me in keeping my "blue meannie" on the road, so thanks in advance for your help on this

Mrmerlin

OK this will beg that question....
what was the last thing you fixed,

Please realize that you gave the Readers Digest version,
but your the only one that knows what you actually touched.

I would be looking at the 14 pin connector,
a alt warning light staying on could be shorted wires at the 14 pin connector under the hood,
and or also a broken wire for the starter as all of these wires go through the 14 pin connector.
If you pop off the top connector back cover,
you should be able to see if the wires are touching and /or you have shedding insulation,
causing the short.

NOTE if you dont already have one,
fit a hot post cover,
this will keep it dry when the car gets wet ,
and prevent corrosion from happening

medipedicman

Have you inspected your battery ground strap? I would replace it if it is original. I struggled with no start issues for quite sometime on my 83. When I pulled the strap out of the car for inspection I discovered that most of the brass strands were broken. Once I replaced it I had no issues.

It is worth looking at.

SeanR

Make it easy.

Starter relay.

Starter.

STRIKEMASTER

OK Mrmerlin, here it is.--The 30 year old hose to the oil separator broke. (PN-928-107-315-01). I ordered the part and then had to wait for good weather and a day off to come together. I spent the time going over my WSM, PET and owners manual. To get to the lower hose clamp I had to pull the intake tube on the right front. My 83 euro has K-JET so no electronics are involved. Peeled the sleeve back, pulled the 2 bolts and moved the intake tube out of the way. There was enough flex in the hard line to move it enough to get to the lower hose clamp without removing the injector. K-Jet has a hard line from the fuel distributor to each injector. Put a piece of sweatshirt in the intake port to keep trash out. Installed the hose and buttoned everything back up in reverse order.(Yes I did take out the sweatshirt). I have a cover on the hot start terminal and the battery ground strap is 8 months old. One thing I didn't mention--Fresh off the charger the battery reads 13.4V, then drops to about 12.2V in about 2 minutes when I hook up the ground strap. (bad cell in the battery?? have to get that checked) I'll have a look at the 14 pin connector in the morning. As for a starter relay, the pictures of the CE panel in my owners book is reversed right to left from the CE panel in my euro. The double relay is on the lower right instead of the lower left. Does a 5 speed euro even have a starter relay? More things to ponder. AH, THE JOYS OF OWNING A 30 YEAR OLD CAR!!! At least the interior is in good shape.(except the pod & dash of course)

Alan

Most likely your battery is screwed - get a new one... (the only exceptions are if you have a huge! parasitic leakage current or your ground strap is badly corroded).

If you aren't sure of these - just test the battery disconnected fom the car - charge then test for voltage in the same way... same or different

Alan

Mrmerlin

I am not really sure about what your saying that the CE panel diagram is reversed from one car to the next this simply isnt true.
I would suggest to go to 928gt.com,
find page two on top right,
then click on tips and links on top left, check the fuse relay diagram against the one you have.
Meanwhile check the 14 pin connector and the wires going to it from the engine side,
its pretty common to have the wires shedding insulation and then the wires will touch inside the connector top half.

I will bet you accidentally leaned on the harness as you were fixing the oil hoses

Also Alan brings up a good point your battery may have past its prime.

BUT that wouldnt explain the lights staying on with the key out,
though a shorted wire at the 14 pin would .
Also if you have been messing with the defrost switch that is known to back feed power through the ignition system.
Also make sure that the empty fuse slots are indeed empty since adding fuses to unfused circuits can also back feed power to the other systems

Alan

Well could be the ignition switch as part of the issue or the Rear defroster if you've been using it - remove the relay to test...

Alan

STRIKEMASTER

Checked the 14 pin block and sure enough it is toast. Not only a frayed and corroded wire going into it but its cracked down the middle. The heavy wire going to the hot post is also corroded. -(see pix)Time to strip off the covering and see how far that goes. Can I use epoxy or Cya to fix the broken block or do I get a new one?? As for the CE panel, I must quote Mr.Rick from Casablanca--"I was misinformed" . -----"Some sharks do 150, some do 149, If I can make mine run at all I think I'm doing fine"

ROG100

Uper male 14 pin is $45.44 but check the female as well.
Looks like you have the jump post cap but do you have the cover? Only $6 and can realy help protect this corrosion from happening.
You are in good hands with Stan and Alan for wiring help.

Mrmerlin

OK good you found a problem,

make sure the battery is disconnected while your fixing these wires,
some are hot and then you will have sparks if they touch ground,

then possibly melt wires into the CE panel

Alan

BTW - I'd still get the battery tested - good to do these fixes with the battery out of the car anyway for safety (you can weld with that cable...).

This can explain a failure to start - it doesn't explain the alternator light staying on though... primary culprits are still the same as above...

Alan

STRIKEMASTER

Got the connector blocks and re-did the wires. Had to cut back the wires about 6'' to get to good copper. It looks like I'll be in the market for a wireing harness in the near future. Hooked up the battery, twisted the key-"puka puka puka--varoooom!!"--'Big Blue' is alive and kicking. couldn't have done it with out help from you-all. Now I'm waiting for for Clyde's corollary to Murphy"s 3rd law to kick in---"Just when you think you have everything covered, something you didn't see bites your ***"---Anyway, I'm back on the road, thanks to you guys and all I can say is "YEE-HAW!!!" Now to find a harness for an 83 euro. but that's for another day

medipedicman

Good News Jay !! Hope you can enjoy it over this summer.