OBX Racing Mufflers and Resonators
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OBX Racing Mufflers and Resonators
Not sure if anyone has heard of these. These mufflers from OBX look similar to a Magnaflow. I first heard of them on the LS1TECH forums. The resonators are praised for their quality (304 Stainless) and price. While similar to the Magnaflow, the internal accoustical material is rockwool, compared to fiberglass of most Magnaflow clones out there. They are made in the SF Bay Area and sold mostly through Ebay.
I picked up a 20" long 3" inlet/outlet diameter muffler. The body width is 5" long. The picture below is not mine, but looks identical, save for the smaller diameter inlet and outlet. Quality is very good. I can't wait to throw this on my car in addition to one more of their resonators to complete my 3" single exhaust.
I picked up a 20" long 3" inlet/outlet diameter muffler. The body width is 5" long. The picture below is not mine, but looks identical, save for the smaller diameter inlet and outlet. Quality is very good. I can't wait to throw this on my car in addition to one more of their resonators to complete my 3" single exhaust.
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I was very impressed with the straight through core on their muffler. I have seen some where the core is actually smaller than the exhaust. This one appears to be 3" all the way through. Best bang for a buck I say.
It may be a while till I get my new exhaust done. Timing belt and water pump is first, but I will bump this thread when the exhaust project begins. I'd figure I'd get the news out there about the latest find in mufflers.
It may be a while till I get my new exhaust done. Timing belt and water pump is first, but I will bump this thread when the exhaust project begins. I'd figure I'd get the news out there about the latest find in mufflers.
Last edited by Mongo; 04-03-2013 at 02:51 PM.
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My manifolds are factory on the S4, but I have incorporated a Magnaflow X-pipe in with some high flow cats from performance-curve.com - after the cats, the exhaust splits to dual Flowmaster 10 series mufflers, but they have rusted through. I'm not too pleased with Flowmaster right now and have opted to go with stainless steel. With the conversion to a single 3" pipe after the cats (Y-pipe to merge flows before the first bend directing the exhaust toward the driver side intermediate muffler area), I chose straight through mufflers to keep the back-pressure low and keep the exhaust flow as free as possible to prevent any loss of torque and HP.
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I'm looking on the website as well as google to confirm they are from China. I can assume yes, because of price. I still can't believe the quality of it though. There's only one way to find out how long it lasts. I'm sure it will last longer than my rusted through Flowmasters made in the USA sadly.
#9
I've got a full turbo back OBX stainless system on my 97 Volvo 850R wagon... lots of the Volvo guys run them because they are cheap, full stainless, and even come with two downpipes (angle flange and straight flange).. All for $350... Don't know how they do it.
There were slight fitment issues, but nothing that a little tugging etc couldn't take care of. It's been on my Volvo for about 2 plus years and still looks good as new...
I'll have to look up these race mufflers....could save me some money on my track car exhaust setup..
There were slight fitment issues, but nothing that a little tugging etc couldn't take care of. It's been on my Volvo for about 2 plus years and still looks good as new...
I'll have to look up these race mufflers....could save me some money on my track car exhaust setup..
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Small bump - the OBX Resonator came in. They make three different sizes for 3" pipes: 14", 16", and 18". Since my single exhaust is straight through, I went with the 18" for the intermediate muffler location. I hope this will take quite a bit of bark out of the exhaust at idle and cruise. From what I hear with straight through systems, the tone is incredibly deep. When I get the whole timing belt and water pump service out of the way, I will be taking my car to the exhaust shop to weld the new system up.
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I'm really curious to hear your results. Currently I replaced my stock pumpkin
with a short Flowmaster just before the half shaft, It's far to loud and as Mitch said at the Muffler Works in Berkeley, "it may require a bit of tweaking".
Like you I am in the throws of doing my belt for the 2nd time since the tensioner bolt broke off. Changing over to a Porken as soon as it arrives
with a short Flowmaster just before the half shaft, It's far to loud and as Mitch said at the Muffler Works in Berkeley, "it may require a bit of tweaking".
Like you I am in the throws of doing my belt for the 2nd time since the tensioner bolt broke off. Changing over to a Porken as soon as it arrives
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I have a porkensioner too. All my work has stopped on the car since I am doing some major cleaning and power steering hose R&R.
#14
I've got a full turbo back OBX stainless system on my 97 Volvo 850R wagon... lots of the Volvo guys run them because they are cheap, full stainless, and even come with two downpipes (angle flange and straight flange).. All for $350... Don't know how they do it.
There were slight fitment issues, but nothing that a little tugging etc couldn't take care of. It's been on my Volvo for about 2 plus years and still looks good as new...
I'll have to look up these race mufflers....could save me some money on my track car exhaust setup..
There were slight fitment issues, but nothing that a little tugging etc couldn't take care of. It's been on my Volvo for about 2 plus years and still looks good as new...
I'll have to look up these race mufflers....could save me some money on my track car exhaust setup..
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I have been wanting to update this thread for a while.
I will be putting my single exhaust on within the next 3 weeks finally and will provide pictures. I also found a tip in O'Reilly's that I can fiddle-faddle with in order to make it more dressy, and less cheapy-looking.
The first thing I did with the Spectre oval exhaust tip was knock out that center 3" ring inside of it. Who the hell knows why the company elected to spot weld the damn thing in there, but it looked like a friggin' eyeball if you were to stare at the tip. Off it went, and I will be sawing off the part where the "screw clamps" were fabricated into the tubular portion of the tip prior to being machined to an oval. This round section is rather long and should provide about 1/2" more round pipe after the removal in order for the 3" tube to be expanded ever so slightly (inlet diameter of the tip is 3.25") for a secure fit and weld.
I will be putting my single exhaust on within the next 3 weeks finally and will provide pictures. I also found a tip in O'Reilly's that I can fiddle-faddle with in order to make it more dressy, and less cheapy-looking.
The first thing I did with the Spectre oval exhaust tip was knock out that center 3" ring inside of it. Who the hell knows why the company elected to spot weld the damn thing in there, but it looked like a friggin' eyeball if you were to stare at the tip. Off it went, and I will be sawing off the part where the "screw clamps" were fabricated into the tubular portion of the tip prior to being machined to an oval. This round section is rather long and should provide about 1/2" more round pipe after the removal in order for the 3" tube to be expanded ever so slightly (inlet diameter of the tip is 3.25") for a secure fit and weld.