westija

Quick question for the experts....

I am in the middle of a Motor Mount and Oil Pan Gasket replacement and have the old mounts out.
When starting to re-assemble the new mounts inside their housing, they seem to be too tight as the base is a bit crooked (please see pictures - the first is the new and the second the old). These are only finger tightened so far, so I am thinking that as I tight them further they will give in a bit, but likely not much more.

Any tips are highly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Ducman82

they will be just fine installed. need the engine weight on them

Mrmerlin

read this it should address some of your concerns.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...t=motor+mounts

westija

Thanks for the help guys.

Mr Merlin, Roger included your description on my mounts order, but honestly I read it a couple of times and could not figure it out entirely without doing it. I will start the assembly tomorrow (if wife let me off the hook with Easter lunch and all that) and might be asking a few more questions once I follow it.

So more to come....thanks for the help

jeff spahn

Wish I lived in Florida, I'd come help you.

MFranke

I'm in process of installing those same mounts. The base will be a little crooked at first. Before installing in the car you'll want to torque down the upper bracket nut with the mount pre-aligned. To pre-align them, i found it helpful to install them in the cross brace, tightening the lower nut, without the base pads, to align the tab with the hole. When it is aligned you can torque down the upper nut. Then remove them from the cross brace. Assemble the base pad and mount it into the passenger side engine loosely. Get the cross brace into position. Just wiggle it around and be patient. It should not take too much force, just wiggle and be patient. I did not find it necessary to remove the sway bar or disconnect the LCA from the shock mount. Once you have it on the LCAs tilt it back and position the drivers side mount. Then start aligning the lower mount studs. Keep everything nice and loose. That is as far as I got so far.

I was hoping to get further on the job this weekend but most of the few hours I had free were spent installing the new oil pan gasket. There is one oil pan bolt near the oil level sender that requires fingers like Jimi Hendrix to reach. I finally got it using an open box ratchet and squeezed a finger up under the bolt head to start it going up and in.

MFranke

Oh, taking time to clean everything nicely while the cross brace is out of the car will pay some dividends... plus that way you don't have to eat dirt while reinstalling. My cross brace had a fair amount of gunk in the channels where the self locking bolts go.

ROG100

Classic! I know which one you mean.

westija

Great, thanks for the help guys , as I get there I will let you know how it goes.

This morning I worked on this a bit, but I am also working on the oil pan gasket and spent all my couple of free hours removing the starter. But I realized I needed to remove the clutch booster cylinder because of a hard line that is is front of the upper Starter bolt. Then I got into the Pan Drain Plug, but realized I needed to remove the oil filter first. Well I did most of that but spent most time cleaning up everything.

Anyway, this car is great, but as many have mentioned, it is quite challenging to access stuff. It seems that the golden rule at Porsche was that to remove anything, you need to remove at least two other ones first.

Next weekend I will get back at it.

Thanks

westija

The saga continues

Still working on it. After a few hours this afternoon, I removed the suspension parts that are connected to the shocks (Dwayne's thread) and it made it much easier. But when I finally got everything in place I cannot get the crossmember upper bolts holes to match with the support on the car side.

At least I got the Oil Pan Gasket behind me.

And seems the pictures are properly sizing now.


I have moved the mount upper bolts location slightly and will try again tomorrow.

In the meantime, does the Starter Cable goes between the Mount and the Heat Shield or between the Heat Shield and the Header? Really seems it goes on the header side, but just want to be sure as I do not remember.

Thanks in advance

Mrmerlin

the starter cables route around the outside of the motor mount and heat shield as far away from the header as possible if you have the clamp bolted to the cross member it should locate it properly

westija

Finalized everything last night and just went for a test drive.

What a difference the new mounts make, truly amazing. It encouraged me to consider a long drive to the SITM that was not even considering before.

Now I need to do a few things to get everything better than it was:
1. Need to find a good alignment place in Southeast FL, if you know of any, please let me know
2. My car did not have the "clamp" that holds the Starter Harness to the cross member and I cannot find its number on the parts manual. If you know the part number, please let me know.
3. The Steering Lines Clamp that is mounted on the inner side of the left fender close to the Rack self destroyed in the process, so I need to buy the plastic part.
4. Does anyone know if I need to lubricate the Sway Bar Rubber Bushings? Dwayne refers to a Molikote grease, but says he could not find it (when he did his mounts write up, at least)

Thanks for all the help and support.

Kevin in Atlanta

You can find a wiring clamp at your local Ace hardware.