Gears grinding when cold
#1
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I have a 1982, 5-speed. The clutch was recently redone. It works great once the car is warmed up. If the car is cold, it will not shift, and will just grind at any gear you try putting it in. As it begins to warm up, the higher gears start working. After warming up for 10-15 minutes (at 60-65 degrees outside), reverse will finally work.
I'm finding this to be particularly annoying. This is my 3rd 928 and the other 2 never did this when I owned them.
Anyone else have this problem?
I'm finding this to be particularly annoying. This is my 3rd 928 and the other 2 never did this when I owned them.
Anyone else have this problem?
#5
Nordschleife Master
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Was the shop good with 928s?
I suggest the issue is poor adjustment of the intermediate plate. Or failure to lube the intermediate shaft right.
Several popular way to adjust it. Try a search for mucho discussion. The way no one likes is the one in the manual.
I suggest the issue is poor adjustment of the intermediate plate. Or failure to lube the intermediate shaft right.
Several popular way to adjust it. Try a search for mucho discussion. The way no one likes is the one in the manual.
#6
Rennlist Member
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The hardest part is the adjustment needs to be done with the cluch disengaged and that's not easy w/ the lower bell removed, so no slave
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#7
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Considering that the symptoms correlate with temperature, the first order of action should be changing the fluid. Some have shared tips recently with their good experiences after using a GM "Synchromesh" fluid. Apparently, it's very friendly with the older gearbox synchros. If you have grinding after you change the fluid, then the intermediate plate adjustment may need attention.
Last edited by Kiln_Red; 03-18-2013 at 05:41 PM.
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#8
Drifting
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Buy Redline MTL.
(Manual Transaxle Lube; synthetic gear oil) 17 bucks/liter free shipping.
helps with your problem and superior lube properties.
(Manual Transaxle Lube; synthetic gear oil) 17 bucks/liter free shipping.
helps with your problem and superior lube properties.
Last edited by The Fixer; 03-18-2013 at 05:17 PM.
#9
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I concur with everything here as I had similar issues. I changed the gear oil out
to Redline but it took a few hundred miles for it really to take effect. Still the first few miles on a cold morning, shifting is hardest until it wakes up.
Also when they did the clutch did they replace the ball cap on top of the bell housing?
to Redline but it took a few hundred miles for it really to take effect. Still the first few miles on a cold morning, shifting is hardest until it wakes up.
Also when they did the clutch did they replace the ball cap on top of the bell housing?
#10
Administrator - "Tyson"
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My 81 did the exact opposite, shifted perfect when cold and almost useless once warmed up. The problem was the tooth on the release bearing ring broke off allowing the release bearing to float around. The problem amplified once warmed up.
My next round of clutch issues it would randomly stop working, no rhyme or reason. This time the release bearing failed and was floating around inside the housing.
With an ice cold transmission, at a standstill, you should be able to grab reverse without any grinding.
Whatever is causing this is not going away once warm, the hot fluid is probably masking the real fault and you are slowly grinding away your synchros.
You need to get this fixed (start with the clutch) ASAP before you do more damage.
My next round of clutch issues it would randomly stop working, no rhyme or reason. This time the release bearing failed and was floating around inside the housing.
With an ice cold transmission, at a standstill, you should be able to grab reverse without any grinding.
Whatever is causing this is not going away once warm, the hot fluid is probably masking the real fault and you are slowly grinding away your synchros.
You need to get this fixed (start with the clutch) ASAP before you do more damage.
#11
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Yes, i'm pretty sure they changed the ball cap. This grinding is such that you cannot even jam it into gear. Not just normal old car clunkiness.
It is a shop that used to do well with my old 928. Should I just eat the cost and bring it elsewhere for adjustment?
It is a shop that used to do well with my old 928. Should I just eat the cost and bring it elsewhere for adjustment?
#13
Administrator - "Tyson"
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First step is pull down the lower bell-housing and work the clutch (not the easiest thing to do, but a good shop can figure it out) and see what is happening.
Since its worse when cold, that makes it easier. I modified a lower bell-housing with an inspection hole so we could see the clutch movement once warmed up.
That still didn’t tell us the complete story, not until we tore it down and removed the release bearing could we see the damaged retaining ring.
#14
Team Owner
#15
Drifting
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Sounds like you should find a shop who understands the clutch mech in our 928s. I read my manual over and over until it was burned into my tiny brain.
Next Issue: What of this rumor that certain Redline Syns slips through our old transaxle seals.
I am about to refill mine with Redline Oil Synthetic MTL 70W80, designed for use in manual transaxles and supposed to be great for cold operation and knotchy shift problms. Mine shift pretty well btw.
I trust Redline, it is known to protect gear sets in racing applications.
But a friend PMed it may cause trans leaks..
What do you all think?
Next Issue: What of this rumor that certain Redline Syns slips through our old transaxle seals.
I am about to refill mine with Redline Oil Synthetic MTL 70W80, designed for use in manual transaxles and supposed to be great for cold operation and knotchy shift problms. Mine shift pretty well btw.
I trust Redline, it is known to protect gear sets in racing applications.
But a friend PMed it may cause trans leaks..
What do you all think?