So, I need to replace the hard A/C pipe that runs from the fuel cooler along the fender on my 86.5. It looks un-fun due to obstruction and the bracket that holds it and one other pipe to the inner fender. Anyone BTDT or have advice on the best approach?

Also- I searched for thread on expansion valve R&R, found comments that it "can be difficult" but not much about procedure- is it self-explanatory?

My WSMs are in a different part of the country, at the moment.

Thanks!

 

I was able to do this - with the engine out! Would hate to try with the engine in.

 

I don't think you can remove it without pulling the engine. I remember someone cutting the line out and made a new three piece one with the original ends and a new center "hose" section. Good luck.

 

Rob Edwards removed the pipe with the engine in place. The hardest part was snaking it by the engine electrical harness in the back passenger corner of the engine bay.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

 

Rob Edwards ain't like us regular folks. He's a real pro at taking things apart! He's prolly got every tool Porsche has ever made for the 928, and some one off's too!

 

Nah, I just didn't know that it wasn't possible. No way in hell would I try it now.

Does the 86.5 in question have rear air? If not, I think this is much more do-able with the engine in place. Sounds like you're talking about the suction line, which is less flexible than the high-side line that I R&R'ed.

 

Speedtoys (Jeff) had a hard line that was worn through.
Took the ends and welded A.N. fittings & then plumbed it using braided teflon hose. You could always put some black shrink tube over it to hide it. I would have a mental disorder trying to do what Rob did. See if you can find his thread - it seemed to work well for him.

 

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ion-stuck.html

 

I have done this with the engine in place. It is possible! From memory, one connection point had to be cut off as I could not access it. A lot of diassembly, but certainly possible!

 

I've had the luxury of doing this multiple times and it's one of those jobs a flucking dislike with a passion. It is possible to remove it with the engine out and each time I do it, I wish I'd pulled the engine. Best way is to remove the wiring harness from the engine, the emissions crap and any soft line you can move out of the way. Un-doing the expansion valve at the front along with that crappy trim/hold down piece in the firewall. I usually cut that and the rubber insert to make it easier.

Once you have the line clear of the firewall the rest is just a combination of twists/turns/pulls to get it out of the car. Be real careful that you do not bend the line much at all, or you will have a hell of a time getting things lined up enough so it will re-install in the expansion valve.

Good luck.

 

Yup, that was me.

It is trivial to use a tubing cutter to remove 4" or so from the rear fitting, and then again a few inches above the low side valve in the front, and then weld on -8 fittings for Nylon tubing.

Prep the lines GOOD, its a very hard anodized aluminum, and also a VERY hard and brittle aluminum allow as well. It will suffer zero bending without microscopic leaks. Testing showed that it would hold water, but brake cleaner would weep thru it.

 

OK, thank you for the additional input..and the link...oh yeah, that's why I didn't tackle it last year....

I do have rear air.

There's no way the engine is coming out....

I don't have the fabrication skills to due the new fittings. Grr.

Anyone toss out an estimate of hours involved, and then I'll do a mental conversion factor to account for my yellow belt status? x3, I'm guessing...

Looking at the schematic for the S4- (mine is S3) the line I will be working on in Rob's thread is more like #1
https://rennlist.com/forums/5284270-post7.html
However, the new part that I have does not have the 'y' or branch that is depicted in the schematic, that must go off to the rear air?

The one I have is 928 500 091 03...will have to run down whether that is for cars w/o rear a/c.

For clarity, the pipe is visible along pass fender to/from fuel cooler in this photo- thanks/apologies to whomever provided the image...not my car...the chafe point is visible here, too, near where the two black hoses cross in front of the strut tower. Would be nice to engineer/splice in a hose section by way of workaround....