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Im still at least 2.5 weeks away from seeing my car again..but when I do, was the module determined to be at fault via the WSM procedure?
My mechanic troubleshot it, starting with fuses and relays and working out from there to discover it was the control module.
He also discovered that the other fan is also not operating correctly - it goes from off to the high speed setting, bypassing the low speed setting. Another indication of a failed controller module.
I wonder about mine because it has never run more than a couple seconds after turning off the ignition ... even on very hot days using the A/C. My 968's fan would run for a while under these conditions.
I just go by the gauge and haven't seen any concerning readings, but suspect the system may not be 100% ...
I wonder about mine because it has never run more than a couple seconds after turning off the ignition ... even on very hot days using the A/C. My 968's fan would run for a while under these conditions.
I just go by the gauge and haven't seen any concerning readings, but suspect the system may not be 100% ...
The late 928s do not run the cooling fans after the engine is shut off. All of the 4 cylinder cars did. Note that the 928 windshield washer tank holds more fluid than the entire cooling system of the 4 cyliner cars....
Tom,
Remove the connection to the temp switch right on top of the intake - short the two wire connections together - then see if the car after-runs. If yes you have a failed thermo switch - easy to replace.
The only other thing that might cause the fan to stop is if it thinks the hood is open - does your hood switch cause the underhood light to go on? This interlock is so the fan can't start up unexpectedly when you have your hand around the area of the blades.
check the fuses as Herman says - then swap the fan connectors and see what happens. If that fan works and the other stops - its the controller, if the same fan is dead its probably just the motor on that fan (brushes worn out or burned out winding maybe...)
Alan
If the above scenario is true for you, as it was for me (same fan dead after switching connectors), you can try tapping lightly on the the fan motor housing with a hammer....
...per my father's suggestion, i tried this and it worked like a champ....so far so good...
If the above scenario is true for you, as it was for me (same fan dead after switching connectors), you can try tapping lightly on the the fan motor housing with a hammer....
...per my father's suggestion, i tried this and it worked like a champ....so far so good...
I think its obvious this isn't likely a good long term fix - but probably indicates a brush wear/commutator issue - that can likely be repaired with new brushes and/or a little cleaning.
If the above scenario is true for you, as it was for me (same fan dead after switching connectors), you can try tapping lightly on the the fan motor housing with a hammer....
...per my father's suggestion, i tried this and it worked like a champ....so far so good...
I would like to try the switching wiring diagnostic.
Does anyone have advice on how to go about this?
Better from up top, or from underneath?
I guess the wiring harnesses will extend far enough in either direction? It does not really look like that to me but maybe if I pull them out of their routing channels?
I would like to try the switching wiring diagnostic.
Does anyone have advice on how to go about this?
Better from up top, or from underneath?
I guess the wiring harnesses will extend far enough in either direction? It does not really look like that to me but maybe if I pull them out of their routing channels?
All help appreciated.
Adam
Easiest access to the plugs is from below assuming bellypan is off/missing. Otherwise they can be reached from above but a lot of stuff obscures the view and reach. You will have to clip a few wire ties and/or remove a part of each harness from wire clips on the shroud to get enough slack to do the swap.
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