Paint touch up
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Paint touch up
So whats the latest on paint touch up? Not respraying entire cars or panels but the concern over removing the look of paint chips, etc.
Are you sanding it down a bit and putting in some touch up paint and then sanding? The toothpick way?
Anyone gotten deep into this recently?
BC
Are you sanding it down a bit and putting in some touch up paint and then sanding? The toothpick way?
Anyone gotten deep into this recently?
BC
#2
I think mostly it comes down to your patience and effort. Spend the time and it will pay off. Blob it in there and call it good and you will get likewise results. I have not done any real good touch up yet but I have studied it quite a bit and hope to do some qaulity touch up very soon. This post is good timing for me.
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Right. There was some discussion of "Langka" or something like that years ago. Many years ago possibly.
#4
Rennlist Member
I have used touch up paint from PaintScratch. A perfect match to my color (see sig.). Also to smooth out the blobs, I have used
http://www.autogeek.net/langka-blob-eliminator.html
Very good product. If you do it right and get a good color match then the results are excellent.
http://www.autogeek.net/langka-blob-eliminator.html
Very good product. If you do it right and get a good color match then the results are excellent.
#5
Instructor
Try Dr. Colorchip. My Benz got caught in a sandstorm in AZ and my hood was all road rash. I used DC (the large kit) and covered my hood with their paint fill using a new white t-shirt as the "paint brush" . I thought I ruined my hood putting the paint on it, because it sort of looked "blotchey" after I got through wiping it on with the shirt. I put the paint on it, smeared it in per the directions, then used the special fluid they supply with the kit to remove the paint from the surface but it kept the paint in the road rash. It ended up turning out great and has lasted 2+ years so far. The pics on their website are legit; it really does work like they promise. It is one of the very few DYI paint repairs that I've ever seen work as advertised. If your car is a stock Porsche color, they should have a kit for you. If it's custom paint, they can color match for you. I had to do that for my wife's Buick Enclave because it has Pearl White paint, and the body shop wanted $1,000 to repaint the door. I used the Dr. Colorchip kit they recommended and it was a 98% match, which was good enough for my wife. You really have to look to see the difference in color, and I saved about $925!
#6
Drifting
There's a lot to cover here and i have to run, but;
To repair chips correctly:
I would buy a small (1/2pint) amount of real urethane automotive paint to your code to start. Buy the activator or reducer too.
You can buy their budget brand, very cheap (25-40 bucks, color depends) which will be very high quality compared to mentioned above and melt into your chip very well if you use quality de-greaser to prep (or prep-solv).
If your paint is a non-metallic a normal stone chip can be repaired almost perfectly. If you have a metallic color it will be seen (metallic pattern cannot be match with a brush or tooth pic, impossible)
Auto paint shops also have a better alternative to a tooth pic or brush tip, it is the size of a tooth pic but has a tiny cotton ball looking end which holds the paint. the end is about 3/32" in dia. and works really well. Comes in a packs of 20, 3 bucks.
Scratches in clear coat can easily be fixed perfectly, penciling in real automotive Urethane clear, with activator, into the scratch then carefully block-wet sanding with 1500 gt. paper, then 2000, compound & polish.
Done it many, many times. The length of my Cayenne was keyed at a club and before my wife noticed, i managed to fix it.
back to paint chips;
You usually have to apply the paint a couple times into the chip, wait for shrinkage and re apply until it's slightly above the finish. Then block sanding again with a tiny foam block and 1500, 2000, then compound by hand and polish.
Again metallics cannot be done to match perfectly.
Hope this helps the discussion. and please, no shrinkage jokes.
To repair chips correctly:
I would buy a small (1/2pint) amount of real urethane automotive paint to your code to start. Buy the activator or reducer too.
You can buy their budget brand, very cheap (25-40 bucks, color depends) which will be very high quality compared to mentioned above and melt into your chip very well if you use quality de-greaser to prep (or prep-solv).
If your paint is a non-metallic a normal stone chip can be repaired almost perfectly. If you have a metallic color it will be seen (metallic pattern cannot be match with a brush or tooth pic, impossible)
Auto paint shops also have a better alternative to a tooth pic or brush tip, it is the size of a tooth pic but has a tiny cotton ball looking end which holds the paint. the end is about 3/32" in dia. and works really well. Comes in a packs of 20, 3 bucks.
Scratches in clear coat can easily be fixed perfectly, penciling in real automotive Urethane clear, with activator, into the scratch then carefully block-wet sanding with 1500 gt. paper, then 2000, compound & polish.
Done it many, many times. The length of my Cayenne was keyed at a club and before my wife noticed, i managed to fix it.
back to paint chips;
You usually have to apply the paint a couple times into the chip, wait for shrinkage and re apply until it's slightly above the finish. Then block sanding again with a tiny foam block and 1500, 2000, then compound by hand and polish.
Again metallics cannot be done to match perfectly.
Hope this helps the discussion. and please, no shrinkage jokes.
Last edited by The Fixer; 03-05-2013 at 12:42 AM.
#7
Three Wheelin'
I've used the Dr. Color Chip process for stone chips on mirrors (our flag mirrors are like magnets to rocks) and rash on the front bumper. You order it per the official Porsche paint code (unfortunately, there are about five different shades of Grand Prix White all under one paint code). But its a pretty good match and helped make my 10 ft paint job into a 5 foot paint job. It takes multiple applications to cover LARGE chips and you'll find them if you look for them, but the small ones just blend right in... Just follow the directions, take your time, and DONT GET IN A HURRY. I bought the medium size package and had enough to do two GPW sharks. Once opened the paint will last for quite a while, but like all paint it will tend to lump up eventually. The small package should be enough to do all the chips on one car and the PRICE IS RIGHT!!! Very economical and I was very pleased with the results.
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#8
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Old school I guess. Original paint formula, bought a quart when I got the car just-in-case. Put some in small (maybe 2 oz) bottles with solvent pre-mixed, add catalyst when ready to use, into a small cap or some other handy container. Then toothpick into chips after they've been cleaned out with wax and silicone remover. Takes a few applications on most real chips, to get the top up slightly proud of the desired finished level. Let it dry thoroughly. Then a little measel trimmer (single-edged blad with magic tape on the ends) takes most of the protrusion off. Sponge-sand with 1500 then 2000 wet. Polish, glaze, seal/wax. I usually let it dry for a week or more before doing anything serious to for finishing. The paint is stored in the bottom drawer of the garage fridge. I also make little blue tape arrows to mark where the repairs have been done. So I can find them again after the first paint application.
Single-stage black by the way.
Single-stage black by the way.
#9
Rennlist Member
Brendan, I've used Dr. Color Chip on my 81, my daughters 84 and the 86, and always been pleased with the results. They will never be concours, but will pass the test of all but the closest examiner. All the best with the project,
Neil
Neil
#10
Drifting
I lent my Buddy Darren my BMW 2002 when he visited me here in the Philadelphia burbs from the UK (married English Chick).
One day he decided w/o asking me to leave and drive my '72 2002 i painted cross country.
He got beaten up in a Colorado bar, slept in the car the whole trip and decided early on to "draft" tractor trailers to save on fuel.
It came home with the front end looking like it was lightly sand blasted, full of torn up girly mags?, pot shake, and beer caps.
No touching up those tiny chips.
Glad he doesn't visit anymore.
One day he decided w/o asking me to leave and drive my '72 2002 i painted cross country.
He got beaten up in a Colorado bar, slept in the car the whole trip and decided early on to "draft" tractor trailers to save on fuel.
It came home with the front end looking like it was lightly sand blasted, full of torn up girly mags?, pot shake, and beer caps.
No touching up those tiny chips.
Glad he doesn't visit anymore.
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Great info guys thanks. I will be checking on the paint code and the type of paint.
#12
Drifting
Haven't most of our cars even the best faded some over all these years? I think mine did, so new factory paint of the same shade probably won't match exactly.