Rear main seal question. Should I try again? (DONE)
#16
Addict extrordinare
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I chose to drive this one in all the way due to the fact that the outside of the seal was only half covered with neoprene. I could still see the steel portion of the seal, in the notch, when it was pressed in flush. I will most likely do the same with the replacement regardless of where the neoprene ends on it.
#17
Race Director
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
it is not in deep enough...... its a TOUGH lesson to learn.....my 1st engine I set it "flush-ish" like your is.....it leaked like a biatch from day one...... When I finally replaced it we set it DEEP....and it was NOT easy getting it that deep.....but it never leaked again....
When the RMS is set properly it should be set in slightly from the face of the block
When the RMS is set properly it should be set in slightly from the face of the block
#18
Former Vendor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I’m getting ready to put my flywheel back on but am a bit concerned about how my rms looks. The seal went in without much issue. I’m wondering if the lip will move back into place when the engine is running and warms up or if I should get another seal and try again. Let me know what you think.
Thanks,
-Ethan
Thanks,
-Ethan
The "latest" iteration of rear seals has the outer portion not covered with seal material for about 1/2 of the seal (you can see exposed steel, as you mentioned.) These are much easier to install than the "older" version, which had seal material completely covering all of the outer "steel", however they must be installed slightly deeper.
The "older" version required a really careful hand, in order to not "fold" over the inner portion (that touches the crankshaft) and thus allow the spring to fall off. Because the outer portion of the seal hit the crankcase at the same instant the inner portion touched the crankshaft, it was very difficult to get both the outside and the inside of the seal started at the same time. Doing this, with the engine in the vehicle, required some really special patience.....and tender words.
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
The "latest" version is much more forgiving. By leaving part of the outer seal partially bare steel, the inner portion and the outer portion of the seal contact the crankshaft and the crankcase at different depths....making installation way easier.
#19
Addict extrordinare
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
it is not in deep enough...... its a TOUGH lesson to learn.....my 1st engine I set it "flush-ish" like your is.....it leaked like a biatch from day one...... When I finally replaced it we set it DEEP....and it was NOT easy getting it that deep.....but it never leaked again....
When the RMS is set properly it should be set in slightly from the face of the block
When the RMS is set properly it should be set in slightly from the face of the block
#20
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If the seal is not flush with the block it will fail after a while. My car had a small like when I bought it in 2003. I replaced the seal when I did the torque converter bearings and the TT in 2005. The reason for the leak was an improper installation by the factory! The seal was not flush with the block and wore on one spot a lot quicker. Installed a new seal and the motor is still bone dry, just like a new car.
#21
Addict extrordinare
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I ended up getting a new seal and a Sir Tools p234. It ends up that the only issue with my previous attempt was a buildup of grease under the dust lip of the seal. If I’d tried what Dave (davek9) had suggested above, the seal would have probably settled into place and looked fine. I’m pretty sure it would have been fine either way.
The tool came with no instructions. Here's how I used it.
Here are the seals (from left to right original, first try, and current seal).
![](http://www.tinaandethan.org/rms/seals.jpg)
I had read a few reviews of the p234, on another site, where folks couldn’t get more than two holes in the tool base to line up with bolt holes in the crankshaft. This was not my experience. I was able to solidly bolt the base up without issue.
![](http://www.tinaandethan.org/rms/base2.jpg)
Here is the installer cup. Note that the seal fits onto it and is held away from the crankshaft during the install.
![](http://www.tinaandethan.org/rms/installer.jpg)
Here’s the seal ready to install.
![](http://www.tinaandethan.org/rms/ready.jpg)
Here it is after installation.
![](http://www.tinaandethan.org/rms/installed.jpg)
Here is another view after it was installed.
The tool came with no instructions. Here's how I used it.
Here are the seals (from left to right original, first try, and current seal).
![](http://www.tinaandethan.org/rms/seals.jpg)
I had read a few reviews of the p234, on another site, where folks couldn’t get more than two holes in the tool base to line up with bolt holes in the crankshaft. This was not my experience. I was able to solidly bolt the base up without issue.
![](http://www.tinaandethan.org/rms/base2.jpg)
Here is the installer cup. Note that the seal fits onto it and is held away from the crankshaft during the install.
![](http://www.tinaandethan.org/rms/installer.jpg)
Here’s the seal ready to install.
![](http://www.tinaandethan.org/rms/ready.jpg)
Here it is after installation.
![](http://www.tinaandethan.org/rms/installed.jpg)
Here is another view after it was installed.
![](http://www.tinaandethan.org/rms/installed2.jpg)