FredR

Wally,

Step 2- no power on 30b so I guess I know where to look- light switch or wiring within the circuit. I seem to remember it is a sod to get the light switch out- oh goody- I like to be stuck scratching my butt!

At least I think I have a spar elight switch.

Fred

FredR

OK update time if anyone is awake yet in the good ole USA.

Further to not having voltage on 30b with the ignition and lights on I pulled the light switch out- literally. I thought the entire barrel should come out on the cable but the things popped away from the barrel leaving the cables behind- sod it! How to get the thing back together?

Took the switch away - in the off position terminal 31b link to 31, move the switch to the other positions connection not there. Move the switch to main lights and if I read the diagram correctly I expected continuity between 31b and 56 but not there. There is continuity between x and 56.

Pulled the switch to pieces-looked a bit grotty inside but cleaned up very easy. Tried to put it back together- would not fit. Had some lunch, took another look at it and figured it would go back together easier in the side light position- went back together like a dream- no snagging- Lesson 1 learned.

So, back to the car, how to fit the light switch? The barell is trapped inside the cowling. Bright idea- pulled out the auxiliary light switches -finger in the middle hole- this time the barell comes thorugh OK. Lesson 2- do not pull the main light switch before removing the 2 auxiliary switches.

With the switch demounteds, Tested for continuity between 31b light switch and 31b relay panel- that was OK.

Tried my 90 S4 relay [as Allan suggested]- lights in the upright position- beams illuminate but no movement when switched off. Conclusion- both relays [they have different part numbers- shows similar behaviour so presumably the GTS relay may still be OK?

Still no power on terminal 31b at the relay panel with ignition on and light switch main beam position.

So, stuck at step two on Wally's procedure and not sure why voltage is not getting through unless the switch iwas not working and stil is not despite cleaning and nothing obviously wrong.

Regards

fred

Alan

Fred - lets take a fresh stab at this - just delete your last post and start over.

There is no pin 31b and Pin 31 links only to the illumination bulb.

I think you mean 30 when you say 31 and 30b when you say 31b - Correct..?.

In that case the behaviour you describe seems quite normal....

30b gets power only when the lights are off - its what makes the pods go down.

Pin 56 is what makes the pods go up (feeds to 86M at the relay)

Alan

FredR

Alan,

Indeed, my error- just getting a bit hot under the collar in more ways than one.

I disconnected the motor connector- put voltage on terminals 1 & 5- nothing.

Dug out my spare motor from the late S4- I now have it such that it lifts the winder, switches on the lights, the lights go off when I switch them off but the whole caboodle stays just where it is!

I could not find a procedure for setting this up in the manual so with the mechanism disconnected I switched on the lights, I assume the motor runs until it has turned enough to trigger the stop contacts and turns on the lights as it did [retracted]- I then turned the ignition off to lock the motor at the up positions and then manually connected the mechanism with the lights in the full up position.

I then assumed that when I turn on the ignition with the light switch off the headlamps would retract but that did not happen.

If anyone can spot anything I have done wrong please holler. further sugeestions appreciated.

Regards

Fred

Alan

So you are saying that now you just have the opposite problem?

I think its all related to the motor feedback circuit - seems each has an issue, just not the same one.

Evaluate the other behaviour I described for that.

Alan

FredR

At least this is easier to live with. I wil change out the relay for the S4 one and see if the same behaviour replicates. If it does then the suspect is the contacts on my old S4 motor.

In the meantime I need to take a look at the GTS motor to see if it is recoverable.

Regards

Fred

Alan

The track should be recoverable - its just cleaning & wiper tensioning typically

Alan

FredR

I was boxing up this evening, a bit tired and lost one of circlips that went twang- oh this car is never ending!

Is it easy to open up the motor body to get to the innerds? I have not seen the motor without the boot on.

Regards

Fred

Alan

I believe so - but I haven't done it on a late style (S4+) motor .

Alan

FredR

Alan,

Pulled the rubber boot this evening. Indeed it looks easy to get inside the housing however the green wire to the motor was loose from the soldered connection and do not think it was removing the boot that did it. So another item on the "to do" list. al least it looks as htough it is probably a DIY mendable item.

They are coming thick and fast at the moment- thank goodness it is still pleasant weather season!

Regards

Fred

Fred

Alan

Actually I never read Wally's description in detail before. There is a problem here in the test procedure proposed:

30b at the switch is what makes the pods go DOWN when you switch off the lights. Regardless of ignition position 30b will have 12v+ (battery) only when the lights are off (Position 0).

56 at the switch is what makes the pods go UP (and the lights turn on when up). 56 will get 12v+ (battery/system voltage) when the ignition is on AND light switch is in position 2 (headlights on).

Since the lights switch on OK when cranked up manually - I think its clear the 56 switching actually works OK. This again narrows it down to the relay or the motor position feedback switches... and since you've tried another relay... we are back at the motor.

Alan

FredR

Alan,

I tried the spare relay whilst [unknown to me] the motor power cable was broken. Pulled the rubber duck off the original motor assembly and this evening soldered up the green cable to the motor. Disconnected the power cable as currently fitted and temporarily re-connected the original motor- this time this motor also cranked and the lights came on. Switched the lights off but the assembly stayed where it was. Hmmm!

Pulled the original GTS relay, tried the S4 relay lights came on, switched it off and the lamps dissappeared into the bulkhead. Problem diagnosed- a relay issue and a motor problem at the same time- double jeopordy!

Wonder if this mioght explain my battery drain problem if that was somehow bleeding power to earth- any thoughts?

No wonder I was getting thrown if hit wit htwo problem simultaneously. The only other explanation I can think of would be if the relay was somehow damaged during removal but it came out surprisingly easy.

Now if you want a laugh- read my other post on yesterday's problem with the speedometer!

Many many thanks for the support.

Fred