2-18-13

Transmission Shop here resealed the pump on my transmission a couple days ago ( one was damaged) and I reinstalled it yesterday. STILL slips.

My transmission is marked 722-270-32-01 722-360-0-3105954 on the case lip passenger side above pan. The modulater is green but its not on the list so what pressure should I be running?

 

According to the WSM that is the correct trans for '89-91. Your modulating pressure should be set to 4.2 BAR +/- 0.05 BAR. Measurement is taken at the test port just aft of the modulator with the trans in "D" at a road speed of either 50 km/h or 140 km/h and fully warmed up. The vacuum line to the modulator should be disconnected and plugged for the test. One complete turn of the adjusting screw changes pressure by approximately 0.4 BAR. Turn clockwise to raise pressure and anti-clockwise to lower.

Mike

 

Thanks Mike.

 

Everything I've been able to assemble on the auto tranny.
I'd follow Greg's advice if I were you.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...d-answers.html

 

I sent you an email answering your questions.

I still have the same problem:

If the transmission didn't slip before...it's not likely it would slip now....unless the B2 piston somehow broke "during" this whole process.

Anything is possible and things can break at any time, but it's pretty hard to ignore the "mechanics's creed":

If something worked before and it doesn't work now, you need to go back and look at what you touched last".

At any rate, it's pretty "low effort" to get that B2 piston out and take a look....exponentially less than taking the transmission out, again.

I wish you were closer and we could put it in the air and take a look.

You are torturing yourself and I can feel the pain, from here.

 

Thanks Greg...

Its my understanding that a pressure problem with the modulater would effect ALL forward gears. Since this only effects take off 1st and 2nd can I discount it being a modulater problem??? Past that all I touched was the pump reseal.

Could the bowden cable have anything to do with JUST the low sears slipping??? When I took the trans in to the shop a few days ago I still had the cable attached to the trans. The tech yanked it out and gave it back to me before I left it with him. I did not SEE how it came out. Is there a trick to putting it back in??? Could I have it wrong and this could be causing my low gear take off issues??

 

Dean,

On my 88 the Bowden is as follows.

There is a hook on the end of a spring loaded rod. I pinch the rod (needle nose)and pry up as I thread the hook through the eye on the cable end. I then release the pliers.

Hope this helps.
Thomas

 

That's a scary thought. The bowden cable runs, through a sheath, from the front of the car to the rear and is attached to the torque tube with clamps. The actual cable can't come out of the sheath...because it has an end "crimped" onto both ends too big to go through the sheath.

How does this end up still attached to the transmission?

 

Any luck Dean with the trans?

 

I took the complete Bowden cable ( from trans to the motor ) still attached to the trans because I was not sure how it came out. I see now there is an arm with a simple 1/4" 90 degree bend in it that goes through a clip on the end of the cable. However the clip slips off the arm easily. I do see the fitting on the bowden cable is "cone shaped" inside. I assume so when this snaps on the arm there is no room for the clip to back off . I can tell from the motor end of the cable there is resistance so I feel good its still attached to the arm inside the trans. If it had slipped off I would think there would be NO resistance when pulled from the motor end.

I must be doing a bad job at explaining my issue. For that I am sorry.

1) Could my lack of low gears at stop have anything to do with the bowden cable?

2) Could my lack of low gears at stop have anything to do with the vacuum modulater?

3) Could my lack of low gears have anything to do with resealing the pump?

The reason I am asking and not just out taking the B2 piston out is ...its COSTS me MIN $58 in fluid every time I try something. This next go around coming will be the 3rd fluid change in just a few days. Well past $150 in fluid costs alone.

 

It does and I see what you are saying. However in my case the "eye" on the cable end wanted to unhook from the arm with just a little movement.

 

Its my understanding that a pressure problem with the modulater would effect ALL forward gears. Since this only effects take off 1st and 2nd can I discount it being a modulater problem???

 

Once the cable housing is back in its place the cable will stay connected. (Once the o ring is seated then turn the cable housing to lock) If you have resistance at the engine side you are connected.
I have noticed this when changing the filter inside the pan. There are cork gaskets that can stay with the trans which can cause a doubling of them when the new filter is attached. This can cause a cockeyed mount which might effect your trans oil pick up. Just a thought as I know your mind is saying it worked fine before.
Thomas