Rob Edwards

I'm working on laying out the new garage space and am thinking about maxjax placement. Can anyone measure (+/- an inch or so) the distance from the nose of the car to the door mirror? One of Dr. Bob's comments in a maxjax thread suggests that the door mirrors more or less split the middle of the lifting columns when the car is on the arms.

You'd think I would have measured this before leaving the house this morning....

77tony

Rob, The outer tip of the door mirror ? Where the door mirror base starts on the body ? T

Rob Edwards

Center of mirror base would fine.

77tony

OK

the flyin' scotsman

just headin to garage.........guessing 6'

ok.......from the middle of the mirror its ~83"

Tony beat me

Rob Edwards

Thanks guys! Pictures at 11.

risaac928

What a community....

Gary Knox

Rob,

This may be in the category of TMEI (too much extraneous information), but I have my '94 up on my two post asymmetric lift today, and had it positioned exactly right before lifting (both front and rear arms on each side fold easily into position under the four lift points of the chassis without contacting the tires), and this requires pretty precise placement of the car fore and aft, so got a measurement for you.

The center of the rear view mirror mounts are exactly 6" behind the center of the two posts on each side of the lift.

Having gone through the design process for my "hobby" garage about 7 years ago, knowing I was going to incorporate this type lift, and with a fair number of topographical issues as well as zoning requirements, I "have been there and done that"!!

Good luck, and if I can be helpful in any way, let me know. (ended up 24' X 36' - never gonna' be large enough!!).

Gary Knox

AO

I will also look at my car which is up on the lift as soon as I get back home for one more data point.

AO

Here's mine. It sits about as far forward as one would want. But I had to compromise as I also have other cars to put on the lift. Ideally, having the mirrors in the center of the post would be just about perfect, but there is room to adjust if needed.

dr bob

I picked the end of the driver's side mirror at the middle of the lift post so I can open the door some with the car on the lift. The actual CG is a bit further back. I also lift the other cars (Gen4 4Runner) so having the columns in further from the garage door lets me lift the nose-heavy beasts a litlle more safely.

Rob-- Specifically, the holes closest to the door are 98" from the garage door inner face. My garage door goes up at a slight angle (~~15º) from the top of the opening to where the ceiling starts at 10.5 feet minus the 6" clearance from the sloped ceiling, then follows the sloped ceiling for another four feet or so.

I have the SD hammer and the correct bits if you need them. Also have a box of Eibach springs and Koni shocks, some tools and the engine lift crossbar. I let all the gas out of the shocks so they would stay compressed in the storage bin... Can bring them down right now if you need them to set the anchors.

Rob Edwards

So here's my new garage space, it's just the old garage plus about 3 feet of extra width and 2+ feet of extra depth. Floor space is now 274 x 164", or 22'10" x 13'8". Ceiling height is only 9'3", so I'm planning around a maxjax.

Here's the space.



I spent this morning installing a rapidair kit with a couple of drops for compressed air. The black tube in the ceiling is a 2" ABS pipe suspended on plumbers' hanger strap, to be a conduit for the hydraulic hose to the far column. Its openings are about 124" center-to center, so they should line up with the outer edge of the columns.

If the columns were immediately under the crossover piper openings, they'd be 122" from the garage door opening, and 152" from the back wall.

All the black boxes are electrical outlets, 48" off the deck. There are 5 junction boxes for flush mount fluorescent fixtures in the ceiling, can't decide between T8 and T5HO.


Still need to add a pair of 20A twist lock plugs in the ceiling above the columns, so I can drop outlet boxes to each column.

Any advice and pointers gratefully accepted. Everything is completely open framing for another week or so, so I can modify as needed.


Note the outlet for compressed air on the ceiling, will mount a hose reel on the big glulam to reach both sides of the garage.

DougM

Not too familiar with the MAXJAX, but to maximize ceiling height, use the liftmaster side pull opener.
http://www.liftmaster.com/lmcv2/page....aspx?famid=53
Costs about $150 more than standard and you also need to have the rails modified (another $150), but it allows the door to hug the ceiling unlike a straight pull. It is also ultra quiet and automatically locks.
For the air compressor. Run standard plumbing in the walls from the source to the outlets with fittings for standard hose adapters. Then you dont have to run soft line and you simply attach the hose at your point. Sort of like the opposite of a central vac system.

Rob Edwards

Yep, have a 3800 on order, and the plans to run the garage door close against the ceiling.

Mark Anderson

Look into a jack shaft door opener.