Anyone got a 928 and a tape measure?
#17
Chronic Tool Dropper
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My garage door supplier was numb to my requests to put the door up against the ceiling. "If you do that, the opener will be below the door. That won't work!" When I said I wanted to put the opener up against the sloped ceiling, it got even better: "Then the opener arm will push the door down instead of forward,k with the door down so far below the opener!" Jackshaft opener is surely the answer. I used a srew-drive against the ceiling, with the door itself on tracks that are 6" below the ceiling slope. I demomstrated yesterday the the MaxJax will in fact lift the 4600# Pilot SUV relatively effortlessly, with the 6" extensions under the pads, and still be comfortably below the raised door. Hint: If you plan to use the MaxJax to work on the Odyssey under the 10' 8" ceiling you'll want to have the door as tight as possible against that ceiling. The tracks need to slope away from vertical a small bit so the panels move away from the opening slightly as they are pulled up. It doesn't take much, just enough for the panel to clear the top wiper seal on the opening as the door is raised. FWIW, I had no trouble making the regular rails work with a little sectioning and fitting.
Ventilation looks pretty good right now, based on your pictures. More than a couple time I've looked carefully at package heat-pump units for the garage. They come from Mitsubishi and others I'm sure. The evaporator and 'air handler' are one piece inside, with an outside unit a couple feet square, vertical, and 8-10" thick. Consider buying the tubing and cable, installing in the wall now for that future case where you decide it's too falcon cold or hot in the garage. Another 220V power user, potentially. It doesn't get as hot in Irvine as it does here in Glendale (intersection of the inland San Fernando Valley and the San Gabriel River Valleys) but it's probably over 75º enough to think about it.
Ventilation looks pretty good right now, based on your pictures. More than a couple time I've looked carefully at package heat-pump units for the garage. They come from Mitsubishi and others I'm sure. The evaporator and 'air handler' are one piece inside, with an outside unit a couple feet square, vertical, and 8-10" thick. Consider buying the tubing and cable, installing in the wall now for that future case where you decide it's too falcon cold or hot in the garage. Another 220V power user, potentially. It doesn't get as hot in Irvine as it does here in Glendale (intersection of the inland San Fernando Valley and the San Gabriel River Valleys) but it's probably over 75º enough to think about it.
#18
+1. Here's the one I installed in my garage. It allows you to put the tracks as close to the ceiling as you need.
You might also consider ceiling mounted hose reels for air, drop light and power.
You might also consider ceiling mounted hose reels for air, drop light and power.
#19
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My garage door supplier was numb to my requests to put the door up against the ceiling. "If you do that, the opener will be below the door. That won't work!" When I said I wanted to put the opener up against the sloped ceiling, it got even better: "Then the opener arm will push the door down instead of forward,k with the door down so far below the opener!" Jackshaft opener is surely the answer. I used a srew-drive against the ceiling, with the door itself on tracks that are 6" below the ceiling slope. I demomstrated yesterday the the MaxJax will in fact lift the 4600# Pilot SUV relatively effortlessly, with the 6" extensions under the pads, and still be comfortably below the raised door. Hint: If you plan to use the MaxJax to work on the Odyssey under the 10' 8" ceiling you'll want to have the door as tight as possible against that ceiling. The tracks need to slope away from vertical a small bit so the panels move away from the opening slightly as they are pulled up. It doesn't take much, just enough for the panel to clear the top wiper seal on the opening as the door is raised. FWIW, I had no trouble making the regular rails work with a little sectioning and fitting.
Ventilation looks pretty good right now, based on your pictures. More than a couple time I've looked carefully at package heat-pump units for the garage. They come from Mitsubishi and others I'm sure. The evaporator and 'air handler' are one piece inside, with an outside unit a couple feet square, vertical, and 8-10" thick. Consider buying the tubing and cable, installing in the wall now for that future case where you decide it's too falcon cold or hot in the garage. Another 220V power user, potentially. It doesn't get as hot in Irvine as it does here in Glendale (intersection of the inland San Fernando Valley and the San Gabriel River Valleys) but it's probably over 75º enough to think about it.
Ventilation looks pretty good right now, based on your pictures. More than a couple time I've looked carefully at package heat-pump units for the garage. They come from Mitsubishi and others I'm sure. The evaporator and 'air handler' are one piece inside, with an outside unit a couple feet square, vertical, and 8-10" thick. Consider buying the tubing and cable, installing in the wall now for that future case where you decide it's too falcon cold or hot in the garage. Another 220V power user, potentially. It doesn't get as hot in Irvine as it does here in Glendale (intersection of the inland San Fernando Valley and the San Gabriel River Valleys) but it's probably over 75º enough to think about it.
thx
#20
I always need more light. I would spend a little time figuring out how I was going to light the workspace with the door open and closed. I wear glasses and the glare from some lights is just too annoying to work in. I've even considered embedding switched fixtures in the floor under thick plexiglass to make working under the car easier.
#21
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Wouldn't you think that a guy that owns three 928s would have a tape measure?
Guess I know what to get him for his birthday....
Guess I know what to get him for his birthday....
#22
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'Specially a white guy that's always measuring ****.
#24
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Great project Rob, I am green with envy ... in my neighborhood we have a 'building envelope' which means I can't add to the footprint of the house in any direction ... of course we built before I had any inkling of someday owning a 928 and wanting to be able to work on it ...
#25
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We are lucky to live in (more or less) the only neighborhood in Irvine where you can get away with this sort of remodel. I'm 'on the rez' on the UC Irvine campus, so all my neighbors are academics, and the HOA is a little more lax. (Or at least no one has tried a remodel of the scale we're doing, so I get to ruin it for everyone else...)
When we moved here there were 60 new houses (only 4 floor plans to pick from) that got assigned in a lottery, I picked the largest lot of the 60, thinking of maybe doing this someday.
Twist-lock ceiling outlets and maxjax pump power added yesterday:
When we moved here there were 60 new houses (only 4 floor plans to pick from) that got assigned in a lottery, I picked the largest lot of the 60, thinking of maybe doing this someday.
Twist-lock ceiling outlets and maxjax pump power added yesterday:
#26
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That bay is plugged up with stuff right now. I added a new Honda Pilot to the fleet, and it's currently blocking the view of the workbay. There are pics of the door arrangement someplace around here, I just need to search and add the links. Give me a few minutes...
#28
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T-
Heh, I wish. Above is master bedroom/office. The dark/light border in the OSB on the floor is the location of the old master bedroom wall.
Heh, I wish. Above is master bedroom/office. The dark/light border in the OSB on the floor is the location of the old master bedroom wall.
#29
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Rob--
WYAIT, and all the walls are open, don't forget to add homeruns of CAT6 from your desk/workstation, and from each window/door for security sensors and indicators. Don't foget phone lines. I failed to run CATV in mine, but fortunately have a recovery path through the adjacent storage area in the old garage ceiling. Make sure you have wiring in for in-ceiling speakers, run to old-work j-boxes through the drywall until you find just the right package to install.
That garage ceiling is going to want a lot of insulation, and probably a 4-hour fire rating, since it's now directly below a living space. I don't see fire sprinkler piping yet; even if it's not a code requirement where you are, add the orange CPVC piping now to an access and drain box at an outside wall near where water comes in, with a tap and a (temporary) valve from the incoming main. With the insulation and the thick ceiling, it makes a serious case for installing everything you might possibly imagine for future improvement. That might include a few empty innerduct runs with pull strings for future wiring you might be forgetting/not anticipating now.
Anybody else know of stuff that you wish you had considered or are thinking of adding to your garage projects? Rob still has a few days to get it all installed before the walls get closed.
WYAIT, and all the walls are open, don't forget to add homeruns of CAT6 from your desk/workstation, and from each window/door for security sensors and indicators. Don't foget phone lines. I failed to run CATV in mine, but fortunately have a recovery path through the adjacent storage area in the old garage ceiling. Make sure you have wiring in for in-ceiling speakers, run to old-work j-boxes through the drywall until you find just the right package to install.
That garage ceiling is going to want a lot of insulation, and probably a 4-hour fire rating, since it's now directly below a living space. I don't see fire sprinkler piping yet; even if it's not a code requirement where you are, add the orange CPVC piping now to an access and drain box at an outside wall near where water comes in, with a tap and a (temporary) valve from the incoming main. With the insulation and the thick ceiling, it makes a serious case for installing everything you might possibly imagine for future improvement. That might include a few empty innerduct runs with pull strings for future wiring you might be forgetting/not anticipating now.
Anybody else know of stuff that you wish you had considered or are thinking of adding to your garage projects? Rob still has a few days to get it all installed before the walls get closed.
#30
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Bob-
Getting a pair of coax, a Cat 6, and a phone line pulled to the garage from the network hub, as well as low voltage to the door and garage doors for security.
Forgot about the speaker wires, I have some leftover in-walls that SWMBO said had to go. Hell, I have a whole PSB 5.1 setup that had to go, perhaps I'll mount those in the garage....
What's an "old run J-box" ?
Will talk to the plumber about sprinkler pipe, the 1" feed line to the WH is on the other side of the garage, and the ceiling's open. Would be an easy run.
Getting a pair of coax, a Cat 6, and a phone line pulled to the garage from the network hub, as well as low voltage to the door and garage doors for security.
Forgot about the speaker wires, I have some leftover in-walls that SWMBO said had to go. Hell, I have a whole PSB 5.1 setup that had to go, perhaps I'll mount those in the garage....
What's an "old run J-box" ?
Will talk to the plumber about sprinkler pipe, the 1" feed line to the WH is on the other side of the garage, and the ceiling's open. Would be an easy run.