Better alternator option
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,725
Likes: 5
From: Davidsonville, MD
I believe the regulator I bought was from a '96 crown vic. It might also be from a '96/'97 F150. A lot of their cars used used that regulator on the 3G alternator back then.
Electron Wrangler
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Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 13,665
Likes: 621
From: Phoenix AZ
The ext temp sensor is a secondary sensor - the in cabin sensor is primary. The temperature set on the slider and the primary sensor/cabin sensor determine most of the mixing flap position. The secondary external sensor modulates this only slightly. If its cold out it mixes warmer to compensate for environmental chilling and colder air intake, if its hot out it modulates colder to compensate for environmental heating and hotter air intake.
Alan
Pro
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 617
Likes: 13
From: The 413
As I'm I the process of doing this swap as well I thought the following may be of use to anyone else considering the swap.
I chose to use a $40 used alternator for the initial swap, and when/if the one fails, I'll buy a new one. The contour alternator as it came to me, with this regulator:
And the brand new Motorcraft genuine '97 Crown Vic V8 (didn't matter vin#-wise, they all use this regulator)
The new regulator comes with new brushes attached, which I'l be removing and swapping with the ones originally from this used alternator. Doing this so that when/if I swap to a new alternator, ill have matching new brushes. Also wont have to worry about the new brushes wearing into the grooves left by the original brushes.
Came with a nice 12" section of the alternator harness as well. With a sweet cover for the B+ terminal.
I chose to use a $40 used alternator for the initial swap, and when/if the one fails, I'll buy a new one. The contour alternator as it came to me, with this regulator:
And the brand new Motorcraft genuine '97 Crown Vic V8 (didn't matter vin#-wise, they all use this regulator)
The new regulator comes with new brushes attached, which I'l be removing and swapping with the ones originally from this used alternator. Doing this so that when/if I swap to a new alternator, ill have matching new brushes. Also wont have to worry about the new brushes wearing into the grooves left by the original brushes.
Came with a nice 12" section of the alternator harness as well. With a sweet cover for the B+ terminal.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 190
Likes: 1
From: St Louis, MO
>
> I have no idea why you would say this...?
>
Poor choice of words. No one seemed to know how the climate control function would function if the hose was disconnected. I'm sure there are thousands of vehicles with that 'feature' but little is written about it. Thanks for the info.
> I have no idea why you would say this...?
>
Poor choice of words. No one seemed to know how the climate control function would function if the hose was disconnected. I'm sure there are thousands of vehicles with that 'feature' but little is written about it. Thanks for the info.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,002
Likes: 35
From: Mukilteo, Wa.
Since the thread title is A better Alternator Option here is mine for now.
I bought a rebuit 928 from O'Reilly Auto parts for $129.00 with a lifetime warranty. They also charged me a $54.00 core which I elected to pay to keep my original Bosch in my possession.
I first tried the regulator replacement which did not cure my problem.
Thomas
I bought a rebuit 928 from O'Reilly Auto parts for $129.00 with a lifetime warranty. They also charged me a $54.00 core which I elected to pay to keep my original Bosch in my possession.
I first tried the regulator replacement which did not cure my problem.
Thomas
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,725
Likes: 5
From: Davidsonville, MD
As I'm I the process of doing this swap as well I thought the following may be of use to anyone else considering the swap.
I chose to use a $40 used alternator for the initial swap, and when/if the one fails, I'll buy a new one. The contour alternator as it came to me, with this regulator:
And the brand new Motorcraft genuine '97 Crown Vic V8 (didn't matter vin#-wise, they all use this regulator)
The new regulator comes with new brushes attached, which I'l be removing and swapping with the ones originally from this used alternator. Doing this so that when/if I swap to a new alternator, ill have matching new brushes. Also wont have to worry about the new brushes wearing into the grooves left by the original brushes.
Came with a nice 12" section of the alternator harness as well. With a sweet cover for the B+ terminal.
I chose to use a $40 used alternator for the initial swap, and when/if the one fails, I'll buy a new one. The contour alternator as it came to me, with this regulator:
And the brand new Motorcraft genuine '97 Crown Vic V8 (didn't matter vin#-wise, they all use this regulator)
The new regulator comes with new brushes attached, which I'l be removing and swapping with the ones originally from this used alternator. Doing this so that when/if I swap to a new alternator, ill have matching new brushes. Also wont have to worry about the new brushes wearing into the grooves left by the original brushes.
Came with a nice 12" section of the alternator harness as well. With a sweet cover for the B+ terminal.
As for the brushes, you might as well stick with the new ones. If you get a new or rebuilt alternator at some point, it too will come with new brushes, so it's not like you have to save them for anything. And having the new brushes conform to the existing slip rings is not a big deal. It happens within a few miles of putting them in.
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Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,162
Likes: 383
From: Johnson City, TN
Finding this alt swap is a big win for all of us with the 32V cars.
As you know, I drive mine, often long distances.
Knowing a replacement alternator exists anywhere in the country is peace of mind.
BTW, have 6 years on a pair of Delcos now (earlier cars)
As you know, I drive mine, often long distances.
Knowing a replacement alternator exists anywhere in the country is peace of mind.
BTW, have 6 years on a pair of Delcos now (earlier cars)
Pro
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 617
Likes: 13
From: The 413
I'm finding, now that I have my car up, and apart and comparing the two, that this is not as "direct" a swap as I was initially thinking it was.
So we're all on the same page, my car is a US spec '82 4.5L.
Some things:
On my '82 model, you can see that the crank pulley configuration is not the same as JHowells. His alternator drive is off a much wider ribbed pulley off the very front of the crank.
Mine is off a 4-ribbed belt, second pulley in, behind the v-belt drive for the p/s.
I don't know what the upper "boss" on the block looks like on Howells, but on mine there is a gap between the [threaded] block section and the bolted on bracket that supports the p/s pump. A difference between 16 and 32V blocks or the brackets? IDK.
Consequently, the alternators look considerably different. For consistency; Porsche on right, Ford on left.
Pulley sizes aren't that far off, measured from the "high" spots on the ribs, the Ford measures 54mm dia. and the Porsche is 52mm dia. 6-rib vs. 4-rib.
I'm not even sure just swapping to the same style crank pulley would make this work without better pictures of the differences of 16V vs 32V mounting locations.
Needless to say, my fussy low-volt-and-amperage-outputting factory alternator is going back in. Bummer. It's annoying having your radio cut out when your radiator fans kick on.
So we're all on the same page, my car is a US spec '82 4.5L.
Some things:
On my '82 model, you can see that the crank pulley configuration is not the same as JHowells. His alternator drive is off a much wider ribbed pulley off the very front of the crank.
Mine is off a 4-ribbed belt, second pulley in, behind the v-belt drive for the p/s.
I don't know what the upper "boss" on the block looks like on Howells, but on mine there is a gap between the [threaded] block section and the bolted on bracket that supports the p/s pump. A difference between 16 and 32V blocks or the brackets? IDK.
Consequently, the alternators look considerably different. For consistency; Porsche on right, Ford on left.
Pulley sizes aren't that far off, measured from the "high" spots on the ribs, the Ford measures 54mm dia. and the Porsche is 52mm dia. 6-rib vs. 4-rib.
I'm not even sure just swapping to the same style crank pulley would make this work without better pictures of the differences of 16V vs 32V mounting locations.
Needless to say, my fussy low-volt-and-amperage-outputting factory alternator is going back in. Bummer. It's annoying having your radio cut out when your radiator fans kick on.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 617
Likes: 13
From: The 413
Anyone want all the parts to do this swap since apparently I don't need hem now!?
Haha what the hell......
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,162
Likes: 383
From: Johnson City, TN
I mentioned it, though, at posts 5 and 69.
Obviously not clearly enough.
Jason needs to augment the title a bit. His car is an 85, but you don't know that, either!
Anyway, the 88 Camaro 105A will work on your 82.
Obviously not clearly enough.
Jason needs to augment the title a bit. His car is an 85, but you don't know that, either!
Anyway, the 88 Camaro 105A will work on your 82.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,297
Likes: 63
From: ɹəpun uʍop 'ʎəupʎs
I helped pull a Paris-Rhone alt off a friend's car last weekend and he's looking for replacement alternator suggestions..
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...lternator.html
(for reference, his car is an '83 "Euro S" 16V CIS car - has a paris-rhone with 4-rib belt).