Better alternator option
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Better alternator option
It's been a few years since I taught you people how to change your radiator end tanks with having to concoct a bunch of convoluted **** to get the job done. So I decided I'd put something new out here.
The stock alternator really sucks *****. And as everyone knows it only gets worse as the temp gets higher. It's also heavy, needs cooling hoses, and was designed probably before I was born.
For several years now some people have been switching to the Delco CS130 alternator. And many have been mislead into thinking this alternator has a higher output than the stock unit. Wrong. I've got a CS130 on my truck and they put out 105amps. Then there's the mounting hassles. You've got stack washers or buy mounting adapters. Then you've got to change pulleys. It's a pain in the *** that doesn't have much benefit aside from being smaller and maybe less likely to slow down when it gets hot. And don't even start with me about "my alternator guy can rebuild a CS130 to put 7000 amps at idle." I don't have an alternator guy. Many of us here don't have an alternator guy, and even if I did, I'm not going to spend $500 on an alternator, so f#ck off with that noise.
So you're wondering what I did? I put on a Motorcraft 3G alternator. These things produce an honest 130amps, even on applications for ****ty cars. The one I used is a drop in fit. All you need to make it bolt up is a nut to go on the end of the long bolt at the top of the alternator, and maybe a belt that's slightly longer than the stock alternator belt. I put on a 34" belt. I've already figured out the wiring. I'll post more on that when I get mine cleaned up and more presentable.
Bottom line: It works. Got it bolted in, wires hooked up, turned on the car, and showed a solid 14 volts on the dash, and around 14.5 at the jump post. Only downside is the Motorcraft alternators are a bit more expensive than the CS130.
Here's a pic for those who would otherwise say it didn't happen.
The stock alternator really sucks *****. And as everyone knows it only gets worse as the temp gets higher. It's also heavy, needs cooling hoses, and was designed probably before I was born.
For several years now some people have been switching to the Delco CS130 alternator. And many have been mislead into thinking this alternator has a higher output than the stock unit. Wrong. I've got a CS130 on my truck and they put out 105amps. Then there's the mounting hassles. You've got stack washers or buy mounting adapters. Then you've got to change pulleys. It's a pain in the *** that doesn't have much benefit aside from being smaller and maybe less likely to slow down when it gets hot. And don't even start with me about "my alternator guy can rebuild a CS130 to put 7000 amps at idle." I don't have an alternator guy. Many of us here don't have an alternator guy, and even if I did, I'm not going to spend $500 on an alternator, so f#ck off with that noise.
So you're wondering what I did? I put on a Motorcraft 3G alternator. These things produce an honest 130amps, even on applications for ****ty cars. The one I used is a drop in fit. All you need to make it bolt up is a nut to go on the end of the long bolt at the top of the alternator, and maybe a belt that's slightly longer than the stock alternator belt. I put on a 34" belt. I've already figured out the wiring. I'll post more on that when I get mine cleaned up and more presentable.
Bottom line: It works. Got it bolted in, wires hooked up, turned on the car, and showed a solid 14 volts on the dash, and around 14.5 at the jump post. Only downside is the Motorcraft alternators are a bit more expensive than the CS130.
Here's a pic for those who would otherwise say it didn't happen.
#2
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Pics or it didn--- Ah, see it now...
That's a nice easy looking installation. There are many flavors of Motorcraft 3G alternator out there- is there a particular application or part # that shares the mounting boss arrangement with the stock alt?
Yours looks very similar to the 200 Amp alternator that Carl sells, absent minor differences in the mounting points.
That's a nice easy looking installation. There are many flavors of Motorcraft 3G alternator out there- is there a particular application or part # that shares the mounting boss arrangement with the stock alt?
Yours looks very similar to the 200 Amp alternator that Carl sells, absent minor differences in the mounting points.
#3
Rennlist Member
Hell, you go.....
So what is the cost of this "Alternator"...
This "3g Alternator" what year/make/model does it fall under for Ford/Motorcraft.
And yes please, the more pictures the better....
So what is the cost of this "Alternator"...
This "3g Alternator" what year/make/model does it fall under for Ford/Motorcraft.
And yes please, the more pictures the better....
#4
Nordschleife Master
I put a 3G on my my 91 Mustang maybe 10 years ago because of a big stereo and I use underdrive pulley's so the alternator spins extra slow at idle. Battery issues disappeared, voltage dips when setting at an idle, but it keeps the battery fully charged.
Mine was a ebay rebuilt from Eagle Auto Electric for around $120 I'm thinking, but Eagle sorted the issues to make it drop in with only minor grinding.
3G was around 1995, alternator tech is up to 5G or 6G by now I think.
Mine was a ebay rebuilt from Eagle Auto Electric for around $120 I'm thinking, but Eagle sorted the issues to make it drop in with only minor grinding.
3G was around 1995, alternator tech is up to 5G or 6G by now I think.
#5
Rennlist Member
Check that out. Thanks for that Jason, it looks great.
I don't think anybody else has even suggested an alternative for the 32V cars, like I know yours is.
Alternator guy, yeah, most of us don't have that. Instead its an Advance parts guy with zero car knowledge, or, a NAPA guy seems like he knows too much to relate. What do we ask for at the counter, ie, an alternator from a 94 crown vic??? Any guidance there would help.
I thought about your radiator fix the other day, one is leaking here.
The Delco's only fit the pre-32V cars.
I don't think anybody else has even suggested an alternative for the 32V cars, like I know yours is.
Alternator guy, yeah, most of us don't have that. Instead its an Advance parts guy with zero car knowledge, or, a NAPA guy seems like he knows too much to relate. What do we ask for at the counter, ie, an alternator from a 94 crown vic??? Any guidance there would help.
I thought about your radiator fix the other day, one is leaking here.
The Delco's only fit the pre-32V cars.
#6
Rennlist Member
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#11
Rennlist Member
The problem with the internal-fan types, like this one and the one that Carl sells, is that they make pretty good vacuum-cleaners for road dirt. Alternators in these cars live close to the road in a dirty environment, and all those slots in the case are dirt-intakes.
The Bosch at least is a closed-case design, with ducted clean air pulled through the case from the back by the external fan.
As for voltage, the long-term float voltage for a flooded 12v battery is around 13.4 volts, which needs to be decreased approx 0.1v for every 10-deg F rise in battery temp (it gets hot back there, also). You can charge the battery faster, if it needs charge, with a higher voltage-- up to 14.5-14.8v (again, derated for temperature). But if it is already charged then you are just boiling off water, not so good on longer trips. Be sure to measure at the battery, the jump-post voltage may be lower because of the CE loads.
#12
Drifting
I own a '94 Full size Bronco, i just bought an A C compressor from Autozone last summer for $200 completely new, couldn't believe how cheap. Generally you can find Ford parts cheaper than going to the dealer and buying genuine MotorCraft. Love my Ford, it never gives me any trouble, 200k miles and evrything works.
Good to know about that alt swap. Be great to know more about the part # of the alternator you are using..
Good to know about that alt swap. Be great to know more about the part # of the alternator you are using..
#13
Drifting
Thread Starter
The alternator is from a '97 Ford Contour. For you dumpster divers, one from a '95 or '96 should also work (that way you know what to ask for at the junk yard.) Keep in mind there were two engines available in the Contour, a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder. This alternator is from a 4 cylinder. DON'T USE THE 6 CYLINDER ALTERNATOR, IT HAS DIFFERENT MOUNTING TABS.
Give me a few days to get back to you on the wiring and the install. What I will say is that the only modification I made to the stock wiring is that I cut the ring terminal off the exciter wire. There are two pig tail connectors you'll need to complete the job. But the wiring is easy. I'd take some pics now but it's quite cold outside, and the wiring I used just to get it operational is kind of ****ty and beat up. I won't even use it to do a brief road test. I'm waiting on some new pigtails. Once they arrive. I'll post a better write up with more pics and details.
Give me a few days to get back to you on the wiring and the install. What I will say is that the only modification I made to the stock wiring is that I cut the ring terminal off the exciter wire. There are two pig tail connectors you'll need to complete the job. But the wiring is easy. I'd take some pics now but it's quite cold outside, and the wiring I used just to get it operational is kind of ****ty and beat up. I won't even use it to do a brief road test. I'm waiting on some new pigtails. Once they arrive. I'll post a better write up with more pics and details.
#14
Good work, glad to see owners coming up with new ideas and options. Keep it up J.