This is the mount from my 89 I am about to put back on. New mounts are very expensive and are no longer made as well...so soon they will be unavailable at any price.

The problem appears to be the rubber sides become TOO flexable over time and the mount collapes. When that happens, the trans rests on the crossmember or the metal parts of the mount rest together and transfers unwanted vibration into the drive line.

The fix would be to replace the rubber sides with new but that is not possible. Next thing would be to fill the void between the upper metal mount lower metal mount with something that would NOT tranfer vibration, NOT dry out or compress over time and stay in one piece. ( and not split...falling out the sides.) Right now I have an exhaust hanger ( porsche made) that I trimmed down and shoved in. Its about the right size. however over time it will dry out and most likely just fall out.

What other ideas are out there to fix this???

What else could be used to "shove in there" and NOT dry out or split?

Thoughts???

Easier to try and fix now, out of the car than later, on my back.

 

I"m so going to use your idea on my car as a quick and cheap fix.

 

Here is another showing the metal to metal mount surfaces.

 

I modded a set using liquid poly window weld because it was easier than building a set from scratch. I'll be doing it again soon and will take pics.

 

If you need some height measurement - new vs old (60k miles)

 

Wow...in just 60K miles those have already collased that far??? And measuerd with out load.

I would be VERY interested in a measurement with new mounts UNDER LOAD. That way I could tell if I was too high or low on my "fix". Whatever is used as a spacer will compress...just how much will very with the material slected.

 

Here's something - crossmember/trans. - with the new ones installed.

 

Does anybody have any idea what the durometer of the rubber is in a new mount?

Something like this two part urethane mix might work:

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=DIYMMI

 

Tony posted this idea a while back. He suggested cutting up an old mount and using the rubber to cram into the void of a new one. In that thread, some thought it might impede flex and compression over big bumps, hard corners, etc.

 

We have sent some off to the people that rebuild our A arms to see if maybe they can rebuild these was well. I'd like to think it isn't much different than they way they vulcanize new rubber on the lower arms.

 

You'll want to use 60A polyurethane as it is as close to the shore of the factory rubber but still a little firmer. I simply drilled two 1/4" holes in the top metal bridge to keep the urethane locked into place when it dried and set it to the 117mm dimension that Rob Edwards posted.

 

This is not a fix but a band aid. The original mount act as a suspension system and that's why there is no rubber at the top. By wedging a pice in there, the height will increase but it will be a much harsher/firmer setup than a new mount will produce. I've seen pictures of this exact fix, before this thread.

 

Would Dean's idea be a good way to test for unknown vibration?
I am chasing a slight vibration in the driveline and this might help elimenate a possible cause. Thoughts?

 

I agree its a band aid...but ..there will be NO NEW mounts one day if someone else does not produce them.

 

How close is the TRANS from the bottom of the crossmember?