I have looked at the WSM information and have searched the forum and still need specific advice regarding disconnecting the wiring from the rear hatch and best technique for aligning the hatch on installation of the hinges. (This request is not about alignment of the latch mechanism.)

The car is at the shop for paint and neither the people there nor I have any experience. They will cheerfully let me disconnect the wiring as I do not want to pay them to try to figure things out and they are reluctant to screw things up if anything goes wrong.

Unfortunately, I had not thought things out too well before giving them the car, so the fact that the hatch had to be removed for painting did not occur to me. I had paid no attention to this now important detail. I haven't much of a clue how to go about it and I certainly don't want to look like I am not the all-knowing 928 expert to the body shop people while I fumble around trying to figure things out.....

Removal: the hinges are pretty obvious, so no problem there with unfastening them, but what gets removed, and how does it get removed, to access the connector(s?) in order to disconnect the wiring harness?

Installation: Roger is sending me new hinge plates/gaskets/desk pads. How does all of get put back together so that everything lines up nicely?

Thanks!

Bob

 

Watching the replies (hopefully) with interest.

 

So am I... I removed the hatch and switch for a cleaning and put it back together. Upon shutting the hatch I broke some small pieces off the plastic... ugh. Fix it till it's broke. I must have slightly misaligned it upon reassembly.

 

Remove the panel that covers the light. When removed I believe you will see the plugs for the lights. The two guides on the side pillars (probably rmoved for painting already) guide the hatch left/right some. Leave these out (as well as the upper hatch lock) and align the hinges so hatch closes. Do this with old seal as it will allow hatch to lower closer to body. It takes time and some fiddling but well worth it as if off left or right then there is a good chance to crack housing for upper lock. Hope this helps some.

 

Oops. Just saw this is not about the hatch. Oh well. Plastic was brittle anyways time for a refresh.

 

to get to the hatch wires ,
remove the sunvisors then the hatch trim, and the rear edge of the headliner
you will find a flat connector 12 pin , on the forward side of the hatch
once this is removed/disconnected then the hatch wires will come free.

 

Here what you have to do:

Remove both rear sun visors
Remove the lining lid upper (number 5) - Pay attention on interior light
Them you will have access to the main connector, so disconnect it and all set.



I would suggest you to order some new lining clips (5A), in case you brake some or it looses it's pressure, and order the clips 4A, 3B and 3A, you will need them to put the lining lids back - all of them will loose the pressure and efficiency once removed.

To remove the hatch you will have to loose 4 bolts located at roof lining, removing the 2 caps showed at the picture below.



To install, you should make it in reverse order.

The trick here is align the hatch back, but in this case, some assembling experience is necessary.

Hope it helps !

JL

 

JL thanks for posting pictures, its a lot easier to see things

 

sorry to hi-jack; does the rear hatch have to come off to repalce the rear hatch seal ? Ive got a new seal coming from Roger and was looking at the hatch, iuts really tight up top, is it possible to replace the seal with the hatch on?

Cheers

Dave

 

Yes, you can replace the seal with the hatch in place.

You will have to loose the struts and ask to someone hold the hatch at the highest possible way, wile you install the new seal.

The strut has one small metal stripe or a clip, that works as a lock. With a screw drive, you gently pop this stripe and and them pop the strut.

It's a easy task.

JL

 

for one man operation,
remove the sunvisors and the hatch trim light (battery disconnected ) and part 5 in the above picture,
then you will be able to easily remove and clean and then replace the hatch seal.

I would suggest to clean off the ridge then use a bead of Hondabond 4 inside the rubber seal ,
where it sits on the metal edge of the car this will prevent water from seeping under the seal once its in position

 

thanks for the tips guys and sorry about the hi-jack Bob

Cheers, good luck with the hatch work

Dave