Clutch Alignment Pins a BEOTCH!!!
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,164
Likes: 7
From: Guelph, Ontario, Canada
Nope... no pics but I followed the WSM for reinstall... Everything looks to be in order. The clutch works well as far as engaugement / disengaugement, but the shuddering DRIVES ME CRAZY... Must be the OCD in me... 
I guess I'll be doing this again eventually - I'm thinking it cant be good for the TO bearing, Pilot & torque tube bearings 
I guess I'll be doing this again eventually - I'm thinking it cant be good for the TO bearing, Pilot & torque tube bearings For the record, things like this drive me crazy too!
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,834
Likes: 548
From: Columbus, OH
While trying to fall asleep last night I had a thought... ( yeah, it happens We drove the Pilot Bearing in to where it was flush with the outer edge. Can it or should it have gone in further? I'm thinking of what Greg Brown mentioned earlier about the central shaft not riding in the correct position on the Pilot bearing which exhibits the symptoms of an improperly adjusted intermediate plate.
Thanks again!
We drove the Pilot Bearing in to where it was flush with the outer edge. Can it or should it have gone in further? I'm thinking of what Greg Brown mentioned earlier about the central shaft not riding in the correct position on the Pilot bearing which exhibits the symptoms of an improperly adjusted intermediate plate.Thanks again!
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,834
Likes: 548
From: Columbus, OH
It appears my Intermediate & Pressure plates have hot spots causing all kinds of shudder, noise, etc, and may need to be replaced. Not sure about the flywheel yet... I'll see whats up when I take her down... AGAIN!
I am considering going with a Spec Stage One single disc clutch rather than replacing the dual disc system. A Spec rep said the stage one is a direct swap for the dual disc clutch (same bellhousing, flywheel, TO bearing, etc) and can handle the same if not more power than the stock clutch.
I realize they are in the business of making & selling clutches so I'm looking for a second / third opinion or insight into alternatives. I need to ask ya'alls opinion of Spec Single Disc Clutches and if they are a good match with our 928s? If you have ideas concerning repairs or other replacement parts I'd love to hear them. I'm thinking NEW parts only.
Thank you in advance for all your input, advice & experiences offered!
I am considering going with a Spec Stage One single disc clutch rather than replacing the dual disc system. A Spec rep said the stage one is a direct swap for the dual disc clutch (same bellhousing, flywheel, TO bearing, etc) and can handle the same if not more power than the stock clutch.
I realize they are in the business of making & selling clutches so I'm looking for a second / third opinion or insight into alternatives. I need to ask ya'alls opinion of Spec Single Disc Clutches and if they are a good match with our 928s? If you have ideas concerning repairs or other replacement parts I'd love to hear them. I'm thinking NEW parts only.
Thank you in advance for all your input, advice & experiences offered!
Race Car
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,477
Likes: 5
From: Atlanta, GA
I don't have any direct experience with a Spec stage 1 single disc clutch. However, I think that if you are trying to go from a stock dual clutch to a higher performance single disc clutch in order to try and avoid drivetrain shudder, you may be in for a rude awakening. The higher performance a clutch is, the more "grabby" and more likely to shudder it becomes.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: Greenville, SC
"Integrally molded carbon kevlar based performance organic clutch disc that allows your SPEC clutch to engage smooth and last a long time. SPEC designed their clutch disc with quality materials so the clutch can handle high temperatures and high clamp loads for extended periods of time. The SPEC Stage 1 clutch is best for daily driving, and those who race their cars on the weekend and need extra torque holding capabilities."
Was it the SP801? If so, and from what I pulled from the description, There product sounds like what you are after. I have used carbon/kevlar organic street discs before with ACT products and their engagement was very streetable. I am quite interested in how this turns out, as I want to do this as well.....for simplicity, if nothing else.
Was it the SP801? If so, and from what I pulled from the description, There product sounds like what you are after. I have used carbon/kevlar organic street discs before with ACT products and their engagement was very streetable. I am quite interested in how this turns out, as I want to do this as well.....for simplicity, if nothing else.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,164
Likes: 7
From: Guelph, Ontario, Canada
Yes
And for what it is worth, the dual disk clutch IS a high performance system. Uses less pedal effort and has higher gripping power. You want to keep the dual disk system if at all possible. Almost all race cars use a multiple disk clutch system. It is better.
Spend some quality time with your clutch. A little care, and a few dollars may be all that you need to get it back to original operation.
And for what it is worth, the dual disk clutch IS a high performance system. Uses less pedal effort and has higher gripping power. You want to keep the dual disk system if at all possible. Almost all race cars use a multiple disk clutch system. It is better.
Spend some quality time with your clutch. A little care, and a few dollars may be all that you need to get it back to original operation.
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Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,834
Likes: 548
From: Columbus, OH
Not sure which part # it was... it was just a quick conversation over the phone. Wasnt too serious about it until after I put my clutch back in and it STILL has big ssues. I've spent time with it... I've held it in my hands and polished it's plates to a smooth shiny glow... I've talked nice to it... pleaded with it... adjusted it more times than I care to count, applied it's favorite grease to moving/sliding parts per the WSM and spent $$ on it... I know its a high performance clutch and I love it when its functioning as designed - as a matter of fact, Porsche goes back to this design when they need the extra UMPH!! I'll keep it stock if I can 
I'm looking for simplicity, reliability & affordability... I'm not racing - although some of the 928 Buckeye Landsharks would disagree I need a clutch that'll work without TOO MUCH fuss - a little fuss I can handle. Another issue is the HIGH $$ for NEW parts - a new intermediate plate is pushing $1K... I'm not afraid of spending $$... just looking for alternatives that'll perform & are somewhat affordable.
Thanks for the replies... Please keep 'em coming.
I'm looking for simplicity, reliability & affordability... I'm not racing - although some of the 928 Buckeye Landsharks would disagree
I need a clutch that'll work without TOO MUCH fuss - a little fuss I can handle. Another issue is the HIGH $$ for NEW parts - a new intermediate plate is pushing $1K... I'm not afraid of spending $$... just looking for alternatives that'll perform & are somewhat affordable.Thanks for the replies... Please keep 'em coming.
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,834
Likes: 548
From: Columbus, OH
Landseer, Thats the plan! We did a pretty thorough inspection last time and thought the plates cleaned up very well, a few minor hot spots, not worn looking at all, not warped, etc.. Apparently, we must've been mistaken In the meantime I'd like to discuss possible alternatives so I'll have a good idea what options are available - new verses used; SPEC verses stock; etc... I guess it would help if I KNEW what a bad flywheel, pressure plate & intermediate plate looks like!
Anybody got pics of good verses bad???
Thanks!
In the meantime I'd like to discuss possible alternatives so I'll have a good idea what options are available - new verses used; SPEC verses stock; etc... I guess it would help if I KNEW what a bad flywheel, pressure plate & intermediate plate looks like!Anybody got pics of good verses bad???
Thanks!
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,162
Likes: 383
From: Johnson City, TN
This thread shows some worn parts.
Again, it still worked pretty well.
I'm wondering what else might be the cause of yours.
You know, engine stumble can feel like shudder, or trans slip, bigtime, just throwin that out there.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ple-notes.html
Again, it still worked pretty well.
I'm wondering what else might be the cause of yours.
You know, engine stumble can feel like shudder, or trans slip, bigtime, just throwin that out there.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ple-notes.html
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,834
Likes: 548
From: Columbus, OH
Nope... Engine runs like a clock (knock on wood) and you can tell the shudder feels & sounds like its coming from the clutch area. Matter of fact, once the clutch is fully engaged it pulls like a champ, no slip, no chatter, nothing but GO!! The pilot bearing needed replacment, but the TO bearing was actually in pretty good shape. We replaced both anyway and still ended up with the same issues. Frustrating
I see the light under your straight edge... not good Once we pull mine I do the straight edge test & post pics! Gonna be a while before I do that... Christmas and all Thanks again!!
I see the light under your straight edge... not good
Once we pull mine I do the straight edge test & post pics! Gonna be a while before I do that... Christmas and all Thanks again!!