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Flush center console conversion design input

 
Old 02-26-2013, 01:01 PM
  #31  
BigAl1
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Alan,
Using a paper template to represent the 2X DIN stereo chassis, yes - it clears the vacuum pot for the center vent flap on my '80 Euro. No clearance problem on with older style cable control HVAC head either. Pending field test on '87 to check later style HVAC controls.
The lower holes are for optional 2 1/16" gauges, and an optional 12V power port. I was only aiming to make a conversion kit to adapt the stock parts and a 2X DIN stereo, not change the HVAC control type - that is beyond my skill! Yes, the shifter handle is much closer to the new HVAC ***** location - I will get a pic tonight with my custom handle showing how close. I figured the clock is gone (part of the stereo display), and have not considered the early Hazard button! Never occurred to me since I don't have one. I'll have to make that clear - not for use with early style console with Hazard switch.
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:12 PM
  #32  
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Could take the flush concept all the way to the window switches if you wanted. Kind of like following this concept except raised up to flush:




Seems like if you want to go flush, might as well go all the way. Just another thought to throw into the mix while in the design stage.
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:26 PM
  #33  
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Are there any more pictures? This seems like a good option.
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:45 PM
  #34  
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I like that idea Auzivision! I will look into that too as it will solve some other appearance issues on my car. Here are pics of my custom shift **** relative to the HVAC ***** when the shifter is in Park.
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:08 AM
  #35  
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he is a "Meh" shot i just took with my phone. ill get some more later today with more light.
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:13 AM
  #36  
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the double din clears the vac pot with no issue.

the ONLY problem i have is the manual hot/cold cable is to short. so i having to make a bowden cable that will work. i tired to use a "universal" throttle cable but is just to stiff and the bends make it hard. im going to check with some aircraft people about a plastic lined one.
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:57 AM
  #37  
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Seems like a good solution.
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:05 PM
  #38  
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Ok...this I need....I was looking at eliminating the clock (although I really like it, the DD stereo will have one), and the old hazard button...I was just either going to relocate it, or replace it with a different style switch, somewhere else on the console....but this will save me a bunch of work...I like the suggestion someone else made, about perhaps putting in a USB port or something...

I think this, combined with a lizard shift would work out just right for what I want...
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:15 PM
  #39  
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Yeah. Where to paypal?
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:19 PM
  #40  
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PM me for cost and shipping details.
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Old 02-28-2013, 06:18 AM
  #41  
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Hey Al to make your new longer cable get a piece of stainless welding rod for TIG and a piece of small polly tube from pneumatics supply. Facca fasteners or Hose headquartes would have that not sure about Princess Auto I have welding rod here...Looks great to me
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:35 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by AirtekHVAC View Post
...and the old hazard button...I was just either going to relocate it, or replace it with a different style switch, somewhere else on the console....
Note that the Hazard switch is a very special switch - you will have a hard time replacing with generic - it needs a 1 pole 2 throw ganged with a 4 pole 1 throw switch (and ganged with another single pole 1 throw switch for the illumination part)

About the only options are to move it to the pod as on later cars (delete something else easier to replicate elsewhere - reset/fog/rear wiper/rear fog), use a similarly configured Porsche hazard switch - say from a 944 OR create a relay controlled version with a simpler switch.

Also given the clearance issues here to the shifter - I'd avoid power outlets or USB chargers located here - creates bigger congestion in a tight area.

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Old 02-28-2013, 10:41 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by tailpipe View Post
Hey Al to make your new longer cable get a piece of stainless welding rod for TIG and a piece of small polly tube from pneumatics supply. Facca fasteners or Hose headquartes would have that not sure about Princess Auto I have welding rod here...Looks great to me
thats not a bad idea. the rod does not need to be super strong (very little muscle is needed to move the lever).......

might have to bust out some .045 wire , give that a try when it gets warmer.!
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:51 AM
  #44  
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Thanks Alan! PET shows the Hazard warning switch is same for all years, so I can work with my switch to see if it can be added to the cutouts in the flush bracket. I could nest the knock-outs for the most flexibility for the end user.
The power port knock-out is on the RH side, and will clear the auto shifter nicely.
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:01 PM
  #45  
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I would be interested in a dual 2.125" gauge hole version. Brushed aluminum would be icing as I'm doing all billet/black interior
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