928 owner again after a 22 year break
12-19-2012, 03:07 PM
#61
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12-19-2012, 03:14 PM
#62
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12-19-2012, 03:17 PM
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I didn't see any mention in your services about the flex plate that Constantine mentioned. It is critical that this be relaxed if required and maybe add a clamp. Just like belts or WP impeller damage, it can and has done major damage to many 928 motors. So have it checked asap.
While I was under the car for the steering rack job, I popped the little circular cover off to look at the flexplate, probably the first time anyone has seen it since the car was new. I couldn't see much since I had trouble getting both the flashlight and my eye near the hole at the same time. Then I had the idea to pull the iPhone from my pocket and take a picture through the hole. It worked surprisingly well because the flash and the lens are so close together. I don't know if anyone can tell whether there's pressure just by looking though...
When I was in Southern California on business last week I bought a PKlamp at Precision Motorwerks which I plan to install when I relieve the flexplate tension, perhaps this weekend when it's supposed to be rainy.
12-19-2012, 08:02 PM
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Allen,
Yes, there is some pressure. I would say about 3 to 4 mm.
Here's a pic of mine without any pressure.
Edit: Very nice car by the way. Just looked at the pics on page 1.
Yes, there is some pressure. I would say about 3 to 4 mm.
Here's a pic of mine without any pressure.
Edit: Very nice car by the way. Just looked at the pics on page 1.
Last edited by Bertrand Daoust; 12-19-2012 at 08:21 PM.
12-24-2012, 07:30 PM
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Did the flexplate service over the weekend
Bertrand, I'm impressed! When I loosened the bolt, the clamp moved back 3.4 mm, just as you predicted! Is that a normal amount for a car with 69K miles?
The whole job took longer than I expected, mainly because I had a hard time sawing through the two rear cover bolts. Access was pretty awkward, especially since my ramps don't raise that part of the car very high. It might have been easier to just drop the exhaust. Or not...
Once the cover was off, things went smoothly. It was cool to watch the clamp slide back - I should have recorded a little movie with the iPhone. I don't have a dial indicator so I measured endplay with my digital micrometer, which required lots of practice to get consistent numbers. Eventually I determined it was 0.3 mm, which I believe is acceptable. I'm glad I didn't put off this job any longer though.
After that I put on the PKlamp (using the torquing procedure described in its instruction sheet), put some white paint on one of the splines, cleaned up the cover, and bolted it back on (leaving the two rear holes empty as recommended). I'd like to thank Bill Ball for his excellent writeup which was my main guide for this job.
The whole job took longer than I expected, mainly because I had a hard time sawing through the two rear cover bolts. Access was pretty awkward, especially since my ramps don't raise that part of the car very high. It might have been easier to just drop the exhaust. Or not...
Once the cover was off, things went smoothly. It was cool to watch the clamp slide back - I should have recorded a little movie with the iPhone. I don't have a dial indicator so I measured endplay with my digital micrometer, which required lots of practice to get consistent numbers. Eventually I determined it was 0.3 mm, which I believe is acceptable. I'm glad I didn't put off this job any longer though.
After that I put on the PKlamp (using the torquing procedure described in its instruction sheet), put some white paint on one of the splines, cleaned up the cover, and bolted it back on (leaving the two rear holes empty as recommended). I'd like to thank Bill Ball for his excellent writeup which was my main guide for this job.
Last edited by Rendergod; 12-28-2012 at 05:28 PM.
12-29-2012, 08:02 PM
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New fuel hoses
After seeing too many posts about engine fires, this job has been near the top of my list, so about a month ago I visited Carlsen Porsche and tried to order the four main fuel injection hoses. Only two were available, the front one from the fuel rail to the damper (928.110.269.01) and the rear one from the pressure regulator to the fuel cooler (928.110.359.08). They gave me a 10% discount which was nice.
As I mentioned before, I stopped by Precision Motorwerks a couple weeks ago. There I watched as Greg Brown assembled and tested beautiful replacements for the two unavailable hoses. His are meant to be routed a little differently. The inlet line to the front damper goes around the front of the engine instead of over the passenger side cam cover, so Greg adds some insulation in case it touches any coolant hoses (see second photo). Also the hose between the rear damper and pressure regulator runs toward the firewall instead of under the intake. It's hard to tell from the third photo but the black braided hose is not actually touching anything.
The job went pretty smoothly. First I relieved pressure by removing the fuel pump relay and running the engine until it died. The original connections were very tight so I used a flare nut crowfoot (SK brand) with a long handled 3/8" ratchet to get more leverage. I used paper towels to absorb the gas after disconnecting each hose and took them outside to avoid fumes in the garage. When connecting the new hoses I used a little anti-seize on the threads as recommended by Greg. Finally my wife started the car as I looked under the hood with fire extinguisher ready, and I'm happy to report no leaks at any of the eight fittings. The only unexpected issue was that the knock sensor connector on the fuel rail has started crumbling, so I wrapped it in electrical tape. I think it's still working because the car runs great!
As I mentioned before, I stopped by Precision Motorwerks a couple weeks ago. There I watched as Greg Brown assembled and tested beautiful replacements for the two unavailable hoses. His are meant to be routed a little differently. The inlet line to the front damper goes around the front of the engine instead of over the passenger side cam cover, so Greg adds some insulation in case it touches any coolant hoses (see second photo). Also the hose between the rear damper and pressure regulator runs toward the firewall instead of under the intake. It's hard to tell from the third photo but the black braided hose is not actually touching anything.
The job went pretty smoothly. First I relieved pressure by removing the fuel pump relay and running the engine until it died. The original connections were very tight so I used a flare nut crowfoot (SK brand) with a long handled 3/8" ratchet to get more leverage. I used paper towels to absorb the gas after disconnecting each hose and took them outside to avoid fumes in the garage. When connecting the new hoses I used a little anti-seize on the threads as recommended by Greg. Finally my wife started the car as I looked under the hood with fire extinguisher ready, and I'm happy to report no leaks at any of the eight fittings. The only unexpected issue was that the knock sensor connector on the fuel rail has started crumbling, so I wrapped it in electrical tape. I think it's still working because the car runs great!
12-31-2012, 03:44 AM
#68
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Allen:
Good work. You are getting to know the ins and outs of the car rather quickly. 0.3mm crank endplay is within the "new" range when it left the factory according to the WSM, although it's awfully close to the wear limit of 0.4mm and larger than I have seen. The endplay on my 89 has never changed from 0.2mm. Regardless, I think you will find the PKlamp will prevent proload from ever accumulating to the 3.4mm you observed. Still, it would be very wise to recheck the shaft for any movement at regular intervals, looking for break in a paint mark you should have placed on the clamp/shaft junction as shown in my write-up on the PKlamp as well as checking the flexplate for bowing. Before I installed the PKlamp I relieved the preload build-up (never more the 3mm and usually 1-2mm) every 3-6 months and checked endplay every year. Fortunately my endplay never changed and with the PKlamp holding perfectly over long intervals with only one insignificant exception, I have just been checking the clamp and shaft every 6 months or so.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...xperience.html
Good work. You are getting to know the ins and outs of the car rather quickly. 0.3mm crank endplay is within the "new" range when it left the factory according to the WSM, although it's awfully close to the wear limit of 0.4mm and larger than I have seen. The endplay on my 89 has never changed from 0.2mm. Regardless, I think you will find the PKlamp will prevent proload from ever accumulating to the 3.4mm you observed. Still, it would be very wise to recheck the shaft for any movement at regular intervals, looking for break in a paint mark you should have placed on the clamp/shaft junction as shown in my write-up on the PKlamp as well as checking the flexplate for bowing. Before I installed the PKlamp I relieved the preload build-up (never more the 3mm and usually 1-2mm) every 3-6 months and checked endplay every year. Fortunately my endplay never changed and with the PKlamp holding perfectly over long intervals with only one insignificant exception, I have just been checking the clamp and shaft every 6 months or so.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...xperience.html
12-31-2012, 08:27 AM
#70
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Nice car you have there and your meeting up with good people to assist in the care an of you machine.
One thing I thought I would mention is that you should check the rear pinch bolt on the drive line,
its usually loose ,
remove the front bolt first then remove then check the rear bolt,
add a dab of blue loctite and torque it to 66 ft/lbs then install the front bolt and P clamp
One thing I thought I would mention is that you should check the rear pinch bolt on the drive line,
its usually loose ,
remove the front bolt first then remove then check the rear bolt,
add a dab of blue loctite and torque it to 66 ft/lbs then install the front bolt and P clamp
12-31-2012, 08:37 PM
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Bill, thanks for the feedback. I read every post in your endplay and PKlamp threads before starting the job, and I did add some paint to the splines after taking the photo above. I should have bought a dial indicator though, to get a more accurate endplay measurement. Next time!
Stan, thanks, I will put the rear pinch bolt check on my "to do" list.
With flexplate and fuel hoses done, I feel better knowing that the two most talked about causes of untimely 928 destruction have been addressed.
Stan, thanks, I will put the rear pinch bolt check on my "to do" list.
With flexplate and fuel hoses done, I feel better knowing that the two most talked about causes of untimely 928 destruction have been addressed.
01-06-2013, 05:46 AM
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Interior pics
Earlier in this thread I promised to take some interior pics, and a few days ago I finally got around to doing it. I'm still amazed by the condition of the interior, especially considering that nothing has been restored or replaced - it was all just preserved by the fastidious original owner (the retired airline captain).
When I got the car it was completely unmodified, so any mods you might notice were done by me. These include the PORSCHE letters on the back and the LED interior lighting (both from Hooked on Cars), the Rennline fire extinguisher, and the stereo head unit and subwoofer. I've temporarily removed the original blue cargo cover and net, and just for fun I also vacuumed the rear carpet the same way that the seller did in his eBay listing.
When I got the car it was completely unmodified, so any mods you might notice were done by me. These include the PORSCHE letters on the back and the LED interior lighting (both from Hooked on Cars), the Rennline fire extinguisher, and the stereo head unit and subwoofer. I've temporarily removed the original blue cargo cover and net, and just for fun I also vacuumed the rear carpet the same way that the seller did in his eBay listing.
01-06-2013, 01:18 PM
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Wow, you've scored a real beauty. Congrats. Once you've got her freshened up, the only thing left will be to drive the **** out of it. Often. The best maintenance is miles. Have fun...
