bronto

This morning, no start. I suspect it was flooded as Schnieders suggested would happen. It would almost catch but then die. Battery lost juice pretty quickly so it's been on a slow charge since mid-morning. I'll try again tomorrow morning.

bronto

It appears the source of the central warning light issue was the ground strap:



After noting how fragile this looked I got a replacement from Mark and the problem is solved as far as I can see. I took a 4 hour round trip yesterday to San Luis Obispo in the rain, and the warning light was off.

Another issue that's been developing is the clutch action. I believe the lines need bleeding. Completely pressing the peddle does not seem to completely disengage the clutch; very difficult to get it into gear when it's cold, and even when the peddle is completely down the car still wants to "go" a bit, and you can "feel" the transmission through the gear shift, if you get my meaning. Occasionally the peddle gets stuck and doesn't come all the way back to the top. Mark rebuilt the clutch after Brendan was done with it, so I presume the pieces are in good shape.

Is bleeding the clutch lines a simple thing? I don't want to bring it back to Schneider's if I don't have to. 928 expert required? There's a non-928 Porsche shop a few blocks from my office.

I am also getting the brake pad warning. I've heard that pads on a 928 are very simple.

Speedtoys

Ha! Epic.

G8RB8

Fix the link to your Pascha Gallery. I would like to see it if it still exists.

bronto

There's a compatibility issue on a new server i moved to, I'll have to resolve that first and FWIW it's just not a priority at the moment.

Charley B

Here you go:

karl ruiter

Bleeding the clutch is pretty easy, but getting all the air out can be tough. The easiest and -often- the most effective thing (IMO) is called 'burping' it. Search for it here. 5 minute job if you have the steering wheel off, and you don't have to get under the car or anything.

If you end up doing the cam carrier gaskets I suggest you do not go with the stock gaskets, but get the special custom designed parts that Greg B. has. One of his many semi secret, but awesome products.

Is it a Ljet car or CIS? Looks like it should be CIS. If so, I would guess flooding would be probably not a leaky injector as much as a leaky fuel distributor or a mis-adjusted air plate.

Lovely car. Just needs a little elbow grease.

BC

LJet

bronto

Karl, is this the complete procedure?:

https://rennlist.com/forums/5261818-post32.html

bronto

I agree BTW. Very grateful to have it. Mostly in good shape. Needs to be driven and not sitting.

karl ruiter

Yes that is the burping procedure. You might have more to do, but I would absolutely do that first.

Hmmm. LJet car flooding. Hmmm.

I kinda doubt an individual injector as that would just take out that cylinder, mostly.

Perhaps the cold start injector? I don't think it puts out enough fuel to totally flood the motor, but I could be wrong. You could probably rule out all injectors by using a fuel pressure guage and watching the fuel pressure leak down after the motor is stopped.

How about ground wires? I know from experience that if you drive a Djet car with a dead alternator that as the battery dies to the point it cannot even run the injection and ignition anymore that it gets richer and richer as the battery voltage drops. I suspect Ljets are the same, although I don't remember doing that exact experiment.

Weak spark? Green wire?
Bad temp sensor?
It sounds like BC replaced the air flap. Does not totally rule it out, but.
I have the LJet 928 manual supplement somewhere. I'll look to see if it has anything useful.

bronto

Bad ground cable? See recent posts.

I just took a quick peek under the dash, why does the steering wheel need to come out?

bronto

BTW, it's only flooded once for me.

karl ruiter

Steering wheel does not need to come out, just makes access easier if you are one the larger size like me. If you were going to change the wheel anyway might be a good time to do the burp.

bronto

I waited to attempt this once I got "home" for Christmas, where the family has a well appointed shop for their ag business, including machining tools.

We aren't unskilled, I've done rebuilds and my brother has restored about a half dozen classics (latest is '70 Camaro RS), but we struggled for about an hour and a half trying to get the snap ring off. We finally concluded that the snap ring pliers(es) we were using weren't up to the task. We've ordered a new one that has the pins pointed outward and tightens by means of a screwdriver-like handle.

Is there a particular kind of pliers that works for sure, or a particular technique for getting it out? We were using one of those adaptable ones that work for external, external and could attached different tips with different pin sizes and angles. But it was just too sloppy to work.