928 Performance Enhancements
#16
That is one BEAUTIFUL 86. Wow. Good job.
Interior is nice. No cracked dash is a huge plus. If it didn't have the rubstrips, it'd be perfect
Definitely check the timing belt and water pump. I'd change them if they weren't done recently. Change all the fuel lines, change the coolant. Check the transmission. Check for load on the flexplate.
Porken tensioner to replace the stock tensioner. Porken clamp or super clamp to prevent thrust bearing failure. Rebuild the MAF if not already.
One word of advice, do NOT put a K&N filter in it. Keep to stock.
Interior is nice. No cracked dash is a huge plus. If it didn't have the rubstrips, it'd be perfect
Definitely check the timing belt and water pump. I'd change them if they weren't done recently. Change all the fuel lines, change the coolant. Check the transmission. Check for load on the flexplate.
Porken tensioner to replace the stock tensioner. Porken clamp or super clamp to prevent thrust bearing failure. Rebuild the MAF if not already.
One word of advice, do NOT put a K&N filter in it. Keep to stock.
#17
Drifting
Can't believe no one has asked what the VIN is to see if it's an 86.5.
Pre-S4s are lighter, and feel that way. I like S4s, but I love the light feel of my '79. If I were to get another one, I would go for an 86.5 and nothing newer.
Pre-S4s are lighter, and feel that way. I like S4s, but I love the light feel of my '79. If I were to get another one, I would go for an 86.5 and nothing newer.
#18
Three Wheelin'
Looks like you have an '86.5 from the looks of that rear lift pad. SO, you've got a BETTER car in my opinion than an S4. Same suspension and brakes. With Ken's chips and an X-pipe you'll be putting out more power than one as well.
Good score for sure!
Good score for sure!
#19
Rennlist Member
The first one you went for (the 87 S4) was well documented here.
#20
Not the sharpest tool in the shed
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Replace all fuel lines. Many first time owners neglect this and their car and dreams for it go up in flames. Cannot stress this enough. Lots of info here about excellent kits to do this.
Also, those manhole wheels look to be in original unmolested anodized state. Be VERY VERY careful about cleaning them. Lots of advice here on that too.
If you car is indeed an 86.5 you hit the jackpot as it will have the more modern 5 litre engine and suspension/brakes etc. As you can read, there are many here who beleive the 5.0 86.5 to be the best 928 overall.
Do not gut the cats. They are getting rare and some states now require OEM cats in place to pass smog. As you only have 50k miles on yours they are probably in good condition. Take them off if you must, but keep them.
Also, those manhole wheels look to be in original unmolested anodized state. Be VERY VERY careful about cleaning them. Lots of advice here on that too.
If you car is indeed an 86.5 you hit the jackpot as it will have the more modern 5 litre engine and suspension/brakes etc. As you can read, there are many here who beleive the 5.0 86.5 to be the best 928 overall.
Do not gut the cats. They are getting rare and some states now require OEM cats in place to pass smog. As you only have 50k miles on yours they are probably in good condition. Take them off if you must, but keep them.
#21
Rennlist Member
From what I can see in the pics, that is a very fine example. What is the color (decal on driver's side door jamb gives it). And 86.5? No matter, great looking car. And two things (others are probably submitting this as I write), you need, ASAP, to check the flex plate (do a search, tons of info) and replace the fuel lines. Not evaluate, just go ahead and replace. There are several options, a search should help you decide.
#23
Three Wheelin'
Damn! Beat me to it!! It looks to be a 86.5. Check the last four digits on the VIN. If its over 1000 then its the 86.5... you can also tell by the larger brake calipers & square / lower jack points front & back. BTW, make sure if you jack it up or someone else does that they USE the jack points. Unless you absolutely know where you can & cannot put a lift/jack on this car. Anywhere else on the body will deform... Everyone is giving you great advice and your bound to be overwhelmed if you didnt already know this stuff... Welcome to my world BTW, the 86.5 is a much better car, IMHO, than the later models for all the reasons described above... Mine has all the power of an S4 (maybe faster), an absolute blast to drive, stops on a dime & has the old body style - front end (which is WHY they are called sharks). You are gonna love this car!!!
#24
#25
Rennlist Member
OK, I'm going to put my flame suit on for this one, and give my 2 pfennigs worth on the K&N. I have put >50K miles on mine using a K&N for a very good reason- I live on a gravel road, and my gravel driveway from that road is .2 miles long. My engine runs just fine at 183K. No way I would use a disposable filter given the environment my car sees daily. I had a lot of experience with K&N's as a bike dealer, and what I saw was that anyone who had problems with them did not follow the cleaning and oiling procedures correctly. Use their chemicals, follow their instructions to the letter, do not fall into the "if some is good more is better" trap when you re-oil the filter, and it will work just fine.
#27
Rennlist Member
Steel Warrior, thought you noted in another thread that yours was an '84 = np for L-jet.
Martin, K&N usually touts more flow because it allows more through... probably not what you want on a dusty gravel road. MOST importantly on an LH is the hot wire getting wet with oil and seeing a premature death. Since no performance increase, ease of re-use is the only real advantage, but not at risk of possible MAF burn-out.
I use one in the '83, but would never in SATA.
Martin, K&N usually touts more flow because it allows more through... probably not what you want on a dusty gravel road. MOST importantly on an LH is the hot wire getting wet with oil and seeing a premature death. Since no performance increase, ease of re-use is the only real advantage, but not at risk of possible MAF burn-out.
I use one in the '83, but would never in SATA.
#28
Rennlist Member
K&N's flow more, because they filter less. That's a great place to start.
Also..the 928 filter is rather _huge_, so in itself is not a restriction to the system considering you get fanTAStic filtering from the OEM style media.
The stuff that really hurts your engine, is the really small stuff that makes up most of our environment. Silica.
Plus improper oiling fouling up your MAF hotwire ($$$)
Also..the 928 filter is rather _huge_, so in itself is not a restriction to the system considering you get fanTAStic filtering from the OEM style media.
The stuff that really hurts your engine, is the really small stuff that makes up most of our environment. Silica.
Plus improper oiling fouling up your MAF hotwire ($$$)
#29
Steel Warrior, thought you noted in another thread that yours was an '84 = np for L-jet.
Martin, K&N usually touts more flow because it allows more through... probably not what you want on a dusty gravel road. MOST importantly on an LH is the hot wire getting wet with oil and seeing a premature death. Since no performance increase, ease of re-use is the only real advantage, but not at risk of possible MAF burn-out.
I use one in the '83, but would never in SATA.
Martin, K&N usually touts more flow because it allows more through... probably not what you want on a dusty gravel road. MOST importantly on an LH is the hot wire getting wet with oil and seeing a premature death. Since no performance increase, ease of re-use is the only real advantage, but not at risk of possible MAF burn-out.
I use one in the '83, but would never in SATA.
#30
Rennlist Member
other way around, ok for the '84 L-jet but not recommended for the '90 LH with hot wire MAF.
Jeff is right, the filter surface area is large with good flow using OEM; many comparison's show zero gain using the K&N (although the metal mesh is likely a contributing factory).
Filtration = #1 and the OEM does an excellent job.
Jeff is right, the filter surface area is large with good flow using OEM; many comparison's show zero gain using the K&N (although the metal mesh is likely a contributing factory).
Filtration = #1 and the OEM does an excellent job.