Interesting tidbits from your owners manual
#1
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
"In the unlikely event of hydraulic failure of one circuit, push the brake pedal down
firmly and hold it in that position. A mechanical linkage activates the second cir-
cuit, and you will be able to bring the vehicle to a stop."
Hmm?
firmly and hold it in that position. A mechanical linkage activates the second cir-
cuit, and you will be able to bring the vehicle to a stop."
Hmm?
#4
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
"When fitting tires already mounted on rims, ensure that the colored wheel bolt is closest
to the valve. Always screw the lockable wheel nut onto this bolt."
Darn, I always position the valve opposite the colored stud.
to the valve. Always screw the lockable wheel nut onto this bolt."
Darn, I always position the valve opposite the colored stud.
#5
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Not from my 928 OM but my old E-Type's manual.
Not quoting word for word but something like,
"In really cold tempetatures do not move off until the needle of the water temperature gauge has moved of its stop.
"Unless you want maximum acceleration use 2nd gear to move off"
The last one, kind of like a 928 auto.
Not quoting word for word but something like,
"In really cold tempetatures do not move off until the needle of the water temperature gauge has moved of its stop.
"Unless you want maximum acceleration use 2nd gear to move off"
The last one, kind of like a 928 auto.
#6
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Something may have been lost in the original translation, but.. the two pistons in the master cylinder normally sit a bit apart. The primary piston (rear in the cylinder) actuates the front circuits, and is pushed directly by the pedal via the booster. The front piston in the cylinder is pushed by hydraulic pressure from the rear piston. If the rear brake circuit fails, the rear piston will ultimately push the front piston mechanically to its stop, and then build pressure to actuate the front brake circuits. Similarly, a failure in the front circuits causes the rear piston to push mechanically against the front piston, building pressure in the rear braking circuit. The front piston to rear brakes design can make the description a little confusing. Add in a check-valve that allows flow from the front piston bleed port to fill between the two pistons when they are fully retracted.
The system can be quite sensitive to bleed order, for instance, if you are doing it by the manual push-and-squirt method. It's also quite possible to get air in between the two pistons that's really tough to get out without removing and bench-bleeding the MC full-stroke, something not really recommended for older MC's where the might be corrosion or crud in the front of the bore.
Hope this makes a little bit of sense.
#7
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
And this I'd different if you have flats vs spoke wheels. There's no magic to the red stud, except that it's used to make sure the factory-balanced wheel and tire goes back the same way every time. Makes vibration diagnosis more consistent. Once you fit new tires, that benefit is gone. It's still handy for you for the same reason, bit it could be any stud or any index with the valves and locks really. And you don't really need to use red...
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
From the WKD 498 221 "1993" 928 GTS Service Information;
Lubricants
Factory oil filling: SHELL TMO Synthetic, SAE 5W-40
The fully synthetic engine oil, SAE 5W-40, was tested in extensive test runs and has now been given approval.
All engines are now factory filled with the above oil instead of the formely used engine oil SHELL TMO, SAE 10W-30*.
This oil is also recommended as service oil along with the other approved oils.
* The oil grade formely used for initial filling, SHELL TMO, SAE 10W-30, was a mineral-based oil with superior properties refined with an additional processing step (hydrocracking).
Did I just re-open the oil can with wurms in them?
Lubricants
Factory oil filling: SHELL TMO Synthetic, SAE 5W-40
The fully synthetic engine oil, SAE 5W-40, was tested in extensive test runs and has now been given approval.
All engines are now factory filled with the above oil instead of the formely used engine oil SHELL TMO, SAE 10W-30*.
This oil is also recommended as service oil along with the other approved oils.
* The oil grade formely used for initial filling, SHELL TMO, SAE 10W-30, was a mineral-based oil with superior properties refined with an additional processing step (hydrocracking).
Did I just re-open the oil can with wurms in them?
#9
Race Car
#11
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Tom in Austin:9932010
My favorite is the one about don't drive with the sunroof open at speeds over 60 mph ...
#12
Pro
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
"Do not operate the sunroof at driving speeds exceeding 60 mph or 100 km/h. The force to overcome wind resistance at higher speeds may cause damage to the sunroof."
#13
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Right... am I wrong headed? Operate meaning don't slide it closed or open... as the wind would break it while in motion...
that's totally how I read it.
From my '91 Owner's Manual:
"Do not operate the sunroof at driving speeds exceeding 60 mph or 100 km/h. The force to overcome wind resistance at higher speeds may cause damage to the sunroof."
that's totally how I read it.
Originally Posted by rbrtmchl:9932510
"Do not operate the sunroof at driving speeds exceeding 60 mph or 100 km/h. The force to overcome wind resistance at higher speeds may cause damage to the sunroof."
#15
Racer
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Something may have been lost in the original translation, but.. the two pistons in the master cylinder normally sit a bit apart. The primary piston (rear in the cylinder) actuates the front circuits, and is pushed directly by the pedal via the booster. The front piston in the cylinder is pushed by hydraulic pressure from the rear piston. If the rear brake circuit fails, the rear piston will ultimately push the front piston mechanically to its stop, and then build pressure to actuate the front brake circuits. Similarly, a failure in the front circuits causes the rear piston to push mechanically against the front piston, building pressure in the rear braking circuit. The front piston to rear brakes design can make the description a little confusing. Add in a check-valve that allows flow from the front piston bleed port to fill between the two pistons when they are fully retracted.