broken cam cover bolt
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
broken cam cover bolt
Removed my left cam cover today
Thought it was too easy.
Found three of the bolts across the top were broken.
Just below the surface.
Now I know why there was so much oil on that side.
I've read all the posts on the subject.
Seems that heat is the popular method.
What I was wondering is will a small butane micro-torch be hot enough?
Should I concentrate the heat on the aluminum head or the broken bolt?
I like the weld a nut idea, just not sure they're close enough to the surface.
Thanks for all input.
***Drive it like you stole it***
Thought it was too easy.
Found three of the bolts across the top were broken.
Just below the surface.
Now I know why there was so much oil on that side.
I've read all the posts on the subject.
Seems that heat is the popular method.
What I was wondering is will a small butane micro-torch be hot enough?
Should I concentrate the heat on the aluminum head or the broken bolt?
I like the weld a nut idea, just not sure they're close enough to the surface.
Thanks for all input.
***Drive it like you stole it***
#2
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I can only assume you have an 85-86 . Heat plus a "backwards drill " may be the best way to address this. With no load on the bolt it is easier to remove. But this repair can get real ugly real easily. At least you are on the top of the head where you have reasonably good access. When the bottom bolts get weird you often end up pulling the engine
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
I'm sorry, yes it is a early '86.
Going to get an angled air drill and some left hand drill bits.
Is it possible to get the aluminum head too hot?
I realize I may have to pull the engine.
Really don't want to do that.
This is one of those "what did I get myself into" moments.
Going to get an angled air drill and some left hand drill bits.
Is it possible to get the aluminum head too hot?
I realize I may have to pull the engine.
Really don't want to do that.
This is one of those "what did I get myself into" moments.
#4
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Yes I know the feeling. Pretty hard to get it too hot. Just be real careful to center the drill bit start very small. Be patient and gradually work your way up on drill size' a little extra time will save you HOURS !!!
#6
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
They often shear off nearly flush so the reverse drill may be the only option. use a dremel sanding disc to flatten the stub center punch to mark the center of the bolt and a very small drill to start the hole. Go to the reverse bits as the hole gets larger.....take your time !!
#7
I had two broken cam bolts and used a mini bolt extractor (cutter one end, extractor the other) and a reversiable high torque electric driver with a right angle chuck on it, worked a treat. Access was the intial problem so you could get straight on the bolt to cut and extract. If you use this method set the driver to high torque but low speed for both cutting and extracting.
I am not sure with this car whether I have spent more on tools than parts.
I am not sure with this car whether I have spent more on tools than parts.
Trending Topics
#8
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
The extractors are made of hardened tool steel if you manage to break one in the bolt you play hell trying to drill it out so drill out the bolt as large as possible before going to an extractor.......just saying
#9
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Deep in the Heart of Texas!
Posts: 3,266
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
4 Posts
What worked on mine ... center punch the bolt, then drill in a couple of steps using v. small bits to make sure you're drilling the bolt and not the hole ;-)
When you have a decent sized hole in the bolt, switch to a left-handed bit and after a bit it will run right up and out.
When you have a decent sized hole in the bolt, switch to a left-handed bit and after a bit it will run right up and out.
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Finally found time to finish the DS.
Doing the PS, 4 broken, 2 on the bottom.......very tight.
Bummin right now.
I want to try the welder method.
What will happen if the welder touches the block while I'm welding on the washer?
Should I disconnect anything electrical?
Doing the PS, 4 broken, 2 on the bottom.......very tight.
Bummin right now.
I want to try the welder method.
What will happen if the welder touches the block while I'm welding on the washer?
Should I disconnect anything electrical?
#11
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Washington "Dc"
Posts: 1,810
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Disconnect both battery connections (Pos and Neg)
Use welding blankets.
I would not suggest welding with the motor in the car. (fuel lines on passenger side among other things).
I suggest you go with the left hand bit idea working slowly .
I would not use an 'extractor' nine times out of 10 they break then you have a bigger mess.
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
I'll post some pics later.
The car has been parked for 7 years.
I drained the tank, replaced all fuel lines, the fuel rails are removed.
I've already had a torch in there heating up the bolts.
That worked on some, but not all?
The car has been parked for 7 years.
I drained the tank, replaced all fuel lines, the fuel rails are removed.
I've already had a torch in there heating up the bolts.
That worked on some, but not all?
#15
Rennlist Member
You'll get them. Take your time and think twice before doing. Look at it this way, you'll never have this happen to you again.