86.5 track car 4 sale (again)
#1
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(Sold)
>310 RWHP SAE!
Last time, I wasn't really all that serious.
Good thing, because I needed the 5-speed to make my latest (last?) version of S3 chips over the last year.
Unfortunately, I've outdone myself. The car is basically undrivable on the street - for this old fool.
Too light, too noisy, way too powerful. I can't use anything but a tiny bit of pedal.
I need something slower and heavier, like a GT or S4 5-speed.![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I'll probably get another 85-86.5 5-speed - with an interior - though.
I don't want to spend another PacNW winter in a track car.
I installed an electric defroster (30 amp), but it still was painful.
You arrange shipping, FOB PDX.
Can possibly deliver to Sharktoberfest 2012.
Consider trade for good S4 or 86.5 5-speed, or quite good 85-86.0 5-speed.
(old sale thread w/specifications)
A crack has developed in the filler where the sunroof was deleted.
The passenger side window motor is intermittent, needs rebuild (works if tapped).
Has considerably more torque over the entire RPM range with new S300s V4.0 chips.
>310 RWHP SAE!
Last time, I wasn't really all that serious.
Good thing, because I needed the 5-speed to make my latest (last?) version of S3 chips over the last year.
Unfortunately, I've outdone myself. The car is basically undrivable on the street - for this old fool.
Too light, too noisy, way too powerful. I can't use anything but a tiny bit of pedal.
I need something slower and heavier, like a GT or S4 5-speed.
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I'll probably get another 85-86.5 5-speed - with an interior - though.
I don't want to spend another PacNW winter in a track car.
I installed an electric defroster (30 amp), but it still was painful.
You arrange shipping, FOB PDX.
Can possibly deliver to Sharktoberfest 2012.
Consider trade for good S4 or 86.5 5-speed, or quite good 85-86.0 5-speed.
(old sale thread w/specifications)
A crack has developed in the filler where the sunroof was deleted.
The passenger side window motor is intermittent, needs rebuild (works if tapped).
Has considerably more torque over the entire RPM range with new S300s V4.0 chips.
![](https://members.rennlist.com/porken/86_5_BE_spoiler.jpg)
Last edited by PorKen; 12-12-2012 at 03:14 AM.
#2
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is it street registered?
do you think it could make a road trip home to a buyer? I am a LONG way, Cincinnati area.
damn... waited too long on a decent 88 here, and now this.
must resist ... must resist....
do you think it could make a road trip home to a buyer? I am a LONG way, Cincinnati area.
damn... waited too long on a decent 88 here, and now this.
must resist ... must resist....
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#3
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Another nearly race ready (just needs full cage + logbook) 928 for a GREAT PRICE.....
For everyone on the fence about doing it......Ken's is over 310whp......MINE is 243whp.....the weight is similar..... I turn pretty good lap times with WAY less power.....Kens should be faster!!!!!
Anyone in the greater norcal area that is thinking about it....I still have a space left in my shop at Thunderhill!!!!! It would fit in great with the other two race 928's that live there (plus an *** dragger)...super cheap at only $137.50 a month
For everyone on the fence about doing it......Ken's is over 310whp......MINE is 243whp.....the weight is similar..... I turn pretty good lap times with WAY less power.....Kens should be faster!!!!!
Anyone in the greater norcal area that is thinking about it....I still have a space left in my shop at Thunderhill!!!!! It would fit in great with the other two race 928's that live there (plus an *** dragger)...super cheap at only $137.50 a month
#4
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I like it. I like it a lot. What would it take to reinstall the ac/heater so it could be used for road trips without killing the dog? And do you have those parts?
Could you post photos of the ugly parts, please?
And if its passing inspection (why not visual? license lights?) and youre driving 2000 miles, its not painfully loud then?
Is the wiring just full of currently unnecessary wires, or are there gremlins in it?
Thanks.
I came to know of this car this afternoon at Motorsport. Dave says its exhaust crossover pipe is a thing of pure beauty...
Could you post photos of the ugly parts, please?
And if its passing inspection (why not visual? license lights?) and youre driving 2000 miles, its not painfully loud then?
Is the wiring just full of currently unnecessary wires, or are there gremlins in it?
Thanks.
I came to know of this car this afternoon at Motorsport. Dave says its exhaust crossover pipe is a thing of pure beauty...
#6
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It is currently registered in Oregon, with a clear, unbranded, title.
It passes OR DEQ easily with a stock converter installed, w/o airpump.
OR has only an idle test, with a visual of the cats, no engine inspection.
No OR inspection of the car for lights etc. Marker light wiring is still there.
I can include an airpump PKT bracket, if needed.
I can include a 32V converter + entire '86.5 exhaust, if needed.
I have most everything it would need, in boxes, for an engine visual.
The cage that is in it now was NASA certified at one point, but it could be better.
It was made for having an interior. (I would keep it if it had an interior.)
The exhaust is minimal, but not loud at lower speeds/highway.
Two balance pipes give it an otherworldly warble sound at full throttle.
I wear earplugs anytime I drive it, mainly because of the road noise inside the car.
HeX-pipe -> GT resonators, center outlet H-dual tip
I have many parts for an air conditioning system. The engine has good A/C compressor mounts!
Restoring the heater and A/C would be very time consuming, but doable.
The wiring has not given me any trouble since I tied it up a little better, but needs to be reduced.
I have driven it to 130-140 literally hundreds of times doing logging runs.
So much torque from off idle to redline, plus No-Lift-Shifting makes it extremely quick.
It is very stable, and brakes very well, even w/o working ABS (needs sensor wires, included).
HP is clipped by the intake to just north of 310 RW SAE, but it makes that from 5500-6500!
(Uncorrected, 40F air temp, max 325 rw hp.)
It passes OR DEQ easily with a stock converter installed, w/o airpump.
OR has only an idle test, with a visual of the cats, no engine inspection.
No OR inspection of the car for lights etc. Marker light wiring is still there.
I can include an airpump PKT bracket, if needed.
I can include a 32V converter + entire '86.5 exhaust, if needed.
I have most everything it would need, in boxes, for an engine visual.
The cage that is in it now was NASA certified at one point, but it could be better.
It was made for having an interior. (I would keep it if it had an interior.)
The exhaust is minimal, but not loud at lower speeds/highway.
Two balance pipes give it an otherworldly warble sound at full throttle.
I wear earplugs anytime I drive it, mainly because of the road noise inside the car.
HeX-pipe -> GT resonators, center outlet H-dual tip
I have many parts for an air conditioning system. The engine has good A/C compressor mounts!
Restoring the heater and A/C would be very time consuming, but doable.
The wiring has not given me any trouble since I tied it up a little better, but needs to be reduced.
I have driven it to 130-140 literally hundreds of times doing logging runs.
So much torque from off idle to redline, plus No-Lift-Shifting makes it extremely quick.
It is very stable, and brakes very well, even w/o working ABS (needs sensor wires, included).
HP is clipped by the intake to just north of 310 RW SAE, but it makes that from 5500-6500!
(Uncorrected, 40F air temp, max 325 rw hp.)
#7
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I might be persuaded to fab a frame to hold two or three rims behind the bumper.
Then I could include the following, and transport them in/on the car.
4 rear Cup I & II rims w/old RA-1 race tires
2 front Cup II rims w/old RA-1 race tires
stock '86.5 exhaust system
other parts
Then I could include the following, and transport them in/on the car.
4 rear Cup I & II rims w/old RA-1 race tires
2 front Cup II rims w/old RA-1 race tires
stock '86.5 exhaust system
other parts
Last edited by PorKen; 10-01-2012 at 12:40 PM.
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#8
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She looks like the grim reaper. What an amazing machine.
Are these really the last S3000 chips? I know the intake restricts any other further gains which is a shame. I wonder what other kind of mods can circumvent that.
Are these really the last S3000 chips? I know the intake restricts any other further gains which is a shame. I wonder what other kind of mods can circumvent that.
#9
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I have driven Ken's car at speed before and it is very quick. This car needs nothing but some new r-comps and track brake pads to hit the track. It fairs favorably to an e46 M3 and a 951 track car. It is a bargin for $5800.
#10
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I hope they are the last S300s chips. I am so over doing logging runs. ![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
With V4.0, the fueling is near perfect at both WOT and part throttle - at least for what can be done with in a 16 x 16 table. All the versions before have been based on the stock generic Bosch LH2.2 map rows and columns, used on 16V S2, Volvo, even SAAB. I could never get the fueling perfect, because the rpm or load divisions were always too far apart, or in the wrong spot, so there were always tradeoffs. In figuring out how to swap the RPM columns and MAF rows to the problem areas instead of the unused areas, I was able to fill in the gaps.
More importantly, the ignition map is now custom tailored to the S3, too.
I don't think the factory spent much time on the tuning the poor old S3 at all, because there was so much more there, there.
Even though the HP peak is limited, there is now a lot more TQ/HP at lower rpms, which is more useful for regular driving. Especially in the 1500-2500 range, where the engine spends most of it's time with a 2.2 rear end. Up til now, a S3 had to struggle to get into the 2000s before it started making any power. Now, it makes power right off idle.
I had put a helper spring on my auto to counteract the pull of the control pressure cable to the trans, to make the pedal feel more like the manual.
I have taken it off, because I found I needed much finer control of the throttle with the new power at cruise speeds.
Another nifty feature in V4.0, Sport Mode, which is based on the factory map which bypasses the O2 sensor at high rpm/high load at part throttle. I made two maps, so it stays bypassed until you let off the throttle. I also richened the fueling a little in this mode, so it has a flat sub-14 AFR. Constant fueling means constant power. I always hated the feeling when dropping out of WOT, and the O2 loop kicked in, going from a sub-13 AFR to up to sub-16 AFR.
Note, on S3s, contrary to what I had read before, at high load/rpm the O2 sensor is bypassed, but it does not go into WOT mode unless the WOT switch is hit.
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
With V4.0, the fueling is near perfect at both WOT and part throttle - at least for what can be done with in a 16 x 16 table. All the versions before have been based on the stock generic Bosch LH2.2 map rows and columns, used on 16V S2, Volvo, even SAAB. I could never get the fueling perfect, because the rpm or load divisions were always too far apart, or in the wrong spot, so there were always tradeoffs. In figuring out how to swap the RPM columns and MAF rows to the problem areas instead of the unused areas, I was able to fill in the gaps.
More importantly, the ignition map is now custom tailored to the S3, too.
I don't think the factory spent much time on the tuning the poor old S3 at all, because there was so much more there, there.
Even though the HP peak is limited, there is now a lot more TQ/HP at lower rpms, which is more useful for regular driving. Especially in the 1500-2500 range, where the engine spends most of it's time with a 2.2 rear end. Up til now, a S3 had to struggle to get into the 2000s before it started making any power. Now, it makes power right off idle.
I had put a helper spring on my auto to counteract the pull of the control pressure cable to the trans, to make the pedal feel more like the manual.
I have taken it off, because I found I needed much finer control of the throttle with the new power at cruise speeds.
Another nifty feature in V4.0, Sport Mode, which is based on the factory map which bypasses the O2 sensor at high rpm/high load at part throttle. I made two maps, so it stays bypassed until you let off the throttle. I also richened the fueling a little in this mode, so it has a flat sub-14 AFR. Constant fueling means constant power. I always hated the feeling when dropping out of WOT, and the O2 loop kicked in, going from a sub-13 AFR to up to sub-16 AFR.
Note, on S3s, contrary to what I had read before, at high load/rpm the O2 sensor is bypassed, but it does not go into WOT mode unless the WOT switch is hit.
#11
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Its its an OOLLLDDD ERW tube cage, do NOT loose that logbook!
It is gold.
Lose an ERW logbook, you will be required to rip it out and update to the new industry legal DOM tubing.
PS: That car needs to be at SF12, just sayin.
#14
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Someone buy this.... Now that Ken has maxed out the early 32valvers..he can now handle the superior power of the S4..and then proceed to upgrade the S4s capabilities well beyond what he could comprehend....
consider the purchase of this S3...a "Get Porken into a S4 fund" contribution...we all know he needs too....and he knows it too
...
LOL..
Good luck in the sale....
consider the purchase of this S3...a "Get Porken into a S4 fund" contribution...we all know he needs too....and he knows it too
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
LOL..
Good luck in the sale....
#15
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ppft.
He's going to have to do so much lightening of an S4 just to stop yawning that it'll hardly represent that iteration of the breed...
;-)
I kid. Sorta.
He's going to have to do so much lightening of an S4 just to stop yawning that it'll hardly represent that iteration of the breed...
;-)
I kid. Sorta.