Landseer

Am converting complete S-car suspension & brakes to late model (86.5)
Car will see street use mainly.

But the donor upper arms have worn ball joints.

These have ball joints that are apparently NOT rebuildable by a home mechanic, unlike the earlier upper A-arms.

So unless somebody has figured out how I can rebuild them at home, there are but 2 choices for me --- rebuilt upper A Arms w/ core.... OR.... steel aftermarket 928MS A Arms using heim joints.

Who has experience with the installation and operation of either? (both options have been on the table for a couple years now)

Ideally, both options are viable. That's what I want to know from folks who have done it and run it ( others need not apply!). Are they both good solutions?

Leon Speed

No experience with Carls A-arms, but the rebuilt ones from 928 Intl are great. I get them locally from the same rebuilder. They are like new. Installation is pretty staight forward. Toughest parts are getting the old ball joint nut off since the ball joint will probably spin and getting to the A-arm nuts inside the fender.

Not sure how this will work with an S model, are the dimensions the same?

ammonman

+1 for the rebuilt units from 928 Intl. Now to get my brake job done so I can order two of their rebuilt lower arms.

Jadz928

+1 for 928 Intl rebuilt. No firsthand exp. with either choices, I just know 928 Intl sell alot of them.

Jim M.

Used the 928 Intl. rebuilt arm on a friends 90GT, I could not believe they were rebuilt. They were perfect, just like a brand new unit. FYI there was a thread a while back about problems one user had with Carl's arm. I can't seem to find the thread now.

SeanR

I say go with the 928 International rebuilds also, top notch parts.

dr bob

No experience (yet) with the 928 International rebuilt arms, but they are on my 'soon' list as mileage drifts above 100k on my car.

Also: When we did the front spring/shock refit on Jonathan's (RL: Kelanel) '84 car a month or three ago, getting to those upper control shaft bolts was not an issue at all, working from below. Used a (gasp..) Harbor-Freight 1/2"-drive extending ratchet to get up in there and have a long enough arm to get the nuts loose. I was a bit apprehensive after reading some of the RL discussions, but in the end it was a non-issue.

Landseer

Same results here, Dr. Bob.
Fairly easy access on both the 84 and 86.5 cars. 22 mm.

The passenger side is tighter. Am using a long Husky 1/2 inch drive ratcheting torque wrench to break them free and shorter ratchet to back them out. Would use a low profile headed 3/8 or 1/2 air impact if I had it. Low profile head is key on the torque wrench too.

Take the engine ground off. Access the frontmost nut from behind, ie, from the same place near where the ground strap attaches to the frame.

On drivers side, removing alternator is the ticket.

James Bailey

I recall getting access from above on a couple of the nuts for the old very brown 1980 which uses late uppers to increase the nagative camber

IcemanG17

My racer has the same setup.....its gives LOTS of camber!!!

Ducman82

i used Carls rebuild kit. works great on my end.

karl ruiter

I think Carl's steel A arms are intended for track use, and , in general, but especially with his stuff, I would play very close attention to exactly how he says it should be used and installed.

MattiasH

I have the 928MS aftermarket ones and have no problems with them, except that the dust boots for the ball joint does not fit very well. I have probably driven a 1000 miles and taken the car to four track days.

Hilton

Those kits are only for the early upper control arms. They won't work on 86.5-95 arms.