9two8

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...helf_Life.aspx

Dont know why this link does,nt work here ??? basically it states Quote==
ExxonMobil recommends a five year maximum shelf-life for engine oils, including Mobil 1.




Ken
80 928 S
5 Speed

UK

Leon Speed

My statement was a bit too bold Found some interesting Titan stuff on Opieoils.co.uk. Any experience with that? I need to find out what the zddp levels are. Not cheap stuff though.


Thanks Kurt. I did find the Motul stuff before, but wow what prices...
I think 10W60 is too heavy and I did find zddp levels on Castrol Edge a bit low.
I use the Mobil 1 5W50 currently, that's still available for an ok price on ebay.

dr bob

I'm kinda hoping that the oil doesn't rust just sitting there in the bottle.

----

A few years ago, there was a news feature that told of a warehouse in Florida that was storing bags of ice for emergency/disaster use, like after a hurricane. FEMA program that someone dreamed up after Andrew or Katrina. Anyway, the 'problem' was that the original supplier had [been forced to] put a use-by date on the bagged ice. It was getting close to that use-by date, so it would need to be disposed of. I happened to be consulting at a power plant nearby, and they use a large cooling pond (man-made lake) that could use both the water and the cooling. And only a few miles from where the ice was stored. But No... The ice had to be donated to another rescue/recovery agency by FEMA rules. Another agency that would then be "stuck" with all that past-due ice.

What was the reason for the "past-due" date concern anyway? The FEMA guy said, with a straight face, that they were worried about freezer-burn. You can't make this stuff up!


So why or how does oil "deteriorate" in five years, other than to make room for new stock from the manufacturer? Do I need to check the dates on my bottles when I buy them to make sure I'm not buying oil that's already too old? Is that five years for each place it's stored, or five years total? Is there a temperature correction available for storage time? Colder should last longer. Is it OK to store the oil at temps above or below the recommended-ambiient-use temperatures shown in my owner's manual? Does anybody know why tornadoes only touch down near mobile-home parks?

[/old and crabby mode]

NoVector

I've switched to Royal Purple, but if you come to Hunsruck next May (17-19) for Sharks in Hunsruck, I have 12 quarts of Mobil 1 you can have dirt cheap.

Leon Speed

I'm putting it in the agenda

Thanks!

Fogey1

My anecdotal experience: I carried around a case of Quaker State 10-30 (in plastic quart bottles) through a bunch of moves. Over 20 years it just kept getting retrieved from the far shelves and re-stashed when it came off the truck.

Finally I got curious and poured a quart into a glass jar. It looked fine ...BUT... then I realized there was half an inch of waxy stuff left in the bottom of the plastic quart.

I'd go with what ExxonMobil says about shelf life.

Bjbpe

I think I qualify for cold climate (Wyoming) and I use 15w-50 Mobil One. I do allow a short warm up (5-10 minutes) before putting stress on the engine. So far my engine runs very well with no significant engine wear that I can tell.

Audi Junkie

The Mobil 1 High Miles line is really excellent.

Dino 10w-40 or 20w-50s shouldn't be overlooked.

imo, SynPower is the best OTC 20w-50 or 5w-40.

Brad Penn produces some spectacular results, but so does dino p

SanDiego928

My manual says:

"For all year round filling (oil change intervals 15.000 miles/24.000 km) use multi-grade oils
SAE 10 W-40, SAE 15 W-50 or 20 W-50."

15k miles between oil changes? Is this correct?

Audi Junkie

Well, the engine holds 9 quarts, double the suspension, oxidization and acid control of a smaller capacity engine.

imo, I like 2x a year changes, 6 months apart with a visc change for winter/summer. If you drive a lot of miles in 6 months, get a more premium oil.

Otherwise, 2 jugs of dino or High Miles 10w-40, 5w-40 if you see real cold, and then 15w-40 in summer...

carguyhere2

This is a reply from a good buddy of mine, who tears motors apart, and puts them together in his sleep


(Remember, we're both for the great white north, and mine sometimes will be driven in freezing cold (dry) weather)

We could debate this oil until we are both blue in the face, my look on it is this, if you do not drive your car often then all of the oil drains down to the pan and you need quick oil pressure to get it to the top of the engine to minimize your wear which most of it happens during startup, so a 5 w oil is needed and if you live in very cold climates then 0W is needed. The added zinc is mostly beneficial to engines with flat tappet cams and older cars 70’s and below. Remember that the first number is your cold pour rating and the second number is your hot rating, so it makes no sense to run such a high viscosity cold such as 15W or 20W it gives you nothing but thicker cold oil at startup. From some of the oil charts I have seen 0W and 5W have the same cold pour rating up to -25C and then 0W is better, on the hot side there was virtually no difference between 40W and 50W but it does depend on individual oil manufacturers and the spread of the number. The greater the spread the worse the oil is because of the viscosity additives they need to put in to make it a 5W-50.

c_span

However there is 10w50 available in Fuchs Pro S 10w50 (formerly Silkolene) I assume Fuchs is a German company - it's definitely available in the UK anyway (opie oils). Being 10w50 it also offers better protection from cold than a 15w or 20w oil, and it's a full ester synthetic.

It's what I run, plus I know of at least two S4 who have run this oil for x00,000km+

They also do a Pro R 15w50, if you prefer (although I have no experience of it).

PS - that initial link is very interesting but it should be noted that it's at least as old as March 2005... so whether some of the truths held in there are still correct... it would be nice to hear an update from its author.

WallyP

I dropped in on Georgia Western Distributing, the local Royal Purple distributor, yesterday. He says that their 20W-50 has been changed, and the new stuff has less ZDDP than the older oil. He has about a dozen cases of the older-spec 20W-50 that they are closing out for $5.76/quart - (twelve-quart cases).

They take credit card phone orders, and charge actual UPS shipping. You can call them at (770) 426-6070. Local pickup next to McCollum Field at Kennesaw, GA if you are nearby.

I have no personal knowledge of the oil or the company, and no affiliation.

Audi Junkie

No offense, but that's a lot of dated claptrap. Mechanics typically know little more about tribology than what your friend related.

All visc overlap at different temps. A 10w and be thicker or thinner than a 5w and so on and so on. Widman's visc calc is the only way I know to compare different fluids.

If you want a 40 weight oil, don't get Mobil 1 0w-40. It sheers into a 30 weight in 1000 miles. 5w-50 sheers like crazy and isn't good in cold either. Certainly it's not as thin as a 5w-20, right? idk where people get their ideas about w- ratings and "weights".

The way I see it there are 3 choices for the Porsche boxer engines...

5w-40
10w-40
15w-40

If you really want a 50 weight due to elevated oil temps, get 20w-50.

No one will be disappointed by selecting an oil this way, with 10w-40 being the default.

I have no problem mixing grades to adjust a bit up and down. My plan is to use 5 or 6 quarts of 5w-40 and a jug of 30 weight. It suits my climate and the fact I'm driving an automatic base Boxster. Plus, I choose slightly thinner viscs anyway. The need for anything thicker than 2.9cP (light 30 weight) is only necessary when oil temps are elevated, that is, a margin is built into the 3.5cP (40) spec of the Euro cars. We simply don't get elevated oil temps in North America driving, short of towing and mountain climbing.

I doubt anyone here will want to try the thick 30 weights, which DO meet the 3.5cP Euro spec, such as Mobil 1 HM 10w-30, German Syntec 0w-30, Brad Penn 10w-30, Redline (afaik), and a few others like Rotella T5 10w-30 "Semi-Synth", a REAL sleeper oil. Also, BMW Castrol 5w-30 being a standout, esp for extended drains.

I'll say it again, I have no problem with dino oils or Hi-Miles oils. Please, have at it with 15w-40 and 10w-40. I've Havoline 10w-40 in my car right now and would have no qualms going 5000 or 6000 miles on it. I'm actually changing it soon, as I really want to get some high-miles oil in asap (only had the car a month).

outbackgeorgia

For those in the north ATL burbs, the Wal-Mart north of Milton on GA9 has M1 15W-50 in 5 QT containers, about $25. Snagged two, there are about 5 left.
Dave