Radiator compatibility
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 135
Likes: 1
From: Western NC 1991 S4
Radiator compatibility
I have a 1991 S4, no problems, but saw a radiator for sale on CL not too far away from me. I haven't gone to see it yet, but the seller says it is from a 1982 Auto, original Behr 928 106 042 00. I don't see a number on mine but PET says it should be 928 106 042 03. For what he was asking for it I thought it might be good to have a spare laying around. But that's a good plan only if it fits. It does not come with the end tanks and he claims it is in good condition. He replaced it with a Griffin aluminum radiator when the end tank seals started to leak. He no longer owns the car.
So, is this compatible with my 1991 S4?
Thanks for your help
So, is this compatible with my 1991 S4?
Thanks for your help
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,778
Likes: 1
From: Singhampton, Ontario/London, Ontario
The core might still be good then, you did say he was not including end tanks correct? AFAIK the actual core dimensions did not change significantly throughout the years. It would be a gamble, but so is every radiator with original end tanks (new or used have questionable air tightness if you ask me just due to their age alone). You can go the custom radiator route and have Griffin make you one with your specific dimensions and specifications, some other people on the forum have done this and mention that Griffin is good quality. As far as pricing goes, a custom Griffin rad would probably be the same if not less than a 928MS radiator, however the 928MS rad is guaranteed to bolt right in whereas Griffin might still get the fitment wrong even with custom instructions.
There has also been a mention regarding the all aluminum sealed rads about their longevity (or lack of). People here have made good points on how with heat cycling (expansion and contraction), the welds that secure the end tanks to the core can eventually crack. The only way to solve it would be to go back to the old design with seals, except this time you might be able to use more modern materials like silicone etc that would outlast the expected life of the core or vehicle.
It is your call, but through posting a similar thread on here about radiator alternatives to the stock version, i have concluded that there are many areas on the 928 where you just can't really beat the stock design such as the radiator. Behr makes good cooling products from what i have read.
There has also been a mention regarding the all aluminum sealed rads about their longevity (or lack of). People here have made good points on how with heat cycling (expansion and contraction), the welds that secure the end tanks to the core can eventually crack. The only way to solve it would be to go back to the old design with seals, except this time you might be able to use more modern materials like silicone etc that would outlast the expected life of the core or vehicle.
It is your call, but through posting a similar thread on here about radiator alternatives to the stock version, i have concluded that there are many areas on the 928 where you just can't really beat the stock design such as the radiator. Behr makes good cooling products from what i have read.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 135
Likes: 1
From: Western NC 1991 S4
He's only asking $50 so if it fit my S4 I would have been willing to take the chance it could be cleaned and repaired and kept as a spare. If it doesn't fit it's just something else to trip over.
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Bend, Oregon
There was a reason he replaced the old one. He pulled the end tanks, discovered that reason, bought a new all-aluminum for many more dollars than repairing the old one would have cost. Right...
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Australia
FWIW, here are some differences. The early core is thicker (comes right to the edge of the top and bottom plates, visible at the rear); it has more rows of tubes front to back) (4 vs 3 IIRC), but fewer rows of tubes vertically. Over all it shouldnt be much different in its cooling capacity. I think I posted details of the tube counts here once. Depending on how the replacement side tanks are made wrt fitting the fan shroud, and S4 shroud may be easy to fit...or not. Are genuine side tanks available, or are they all after market now?
I made up a frame in alloy angle to fit electric fans to my 83 (thick core) a few years ago, using a late thin core as a jig, and discovered the core difference when I went to fit it in place. Instead of having the fans mounted on the back of the frame, I moved them to the front side, so they were closer to the core. The shroud mounting points were the same, so no issues there. When my original rad broke off the top hose inlet, i replaced it with a new locally sourced/made unit with 2 coolers($880), thin core, no issues, except the hose adapters were ~1mm undersize (correct thread), so i used the original adaptors.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
I made up a frame in alloy angle to fit electric fans to my 83 (thick core) a few years ago, using a late thin core as a jig, and discovered the core difference when I went to fit it in place. Instead of having the fans mounted on the back of the frame, I moved them to the front side, so they were closer to the core. The shroud mounting points were the same, so no issues there. When my original rad broke off the top hose inlet, i replaced it with a new locally sourced/made unit with 2 coolers($880), thin core, no issues, except the hose adapters were ~1mm undersize (correct thread), so i used the original adaptors.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
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