mark kibort

Ive noticed , vs driving a BMW, that upon release of the clutch, it clunks a little. i remember with my car way back when, i rebuilt my entire clutch system with new parts before i knew anything about the car, and it still had that feel! (porsche shop did it ) shifting is fine, going into gear is fine, just the release on the dual discs can make a clunking sound and feel. very subtle, but i notice it.

jbrob007

I'd be very happy with a slight clunking sound & feel... Right now I'm arm wrestling the shifter to get her into gear - got harder, notchier & crunchier as I drove her. If I can get the clutch to fully release I'll be a happy camper. If that doesnt do the trick... then I'm looking toward the tranny cause everything else on the clutch system has checked out. Getting into the MC as I type... I'll report back with my findings. Thanks again to all who've replied and offered advice

Ducman82

is it just you in your garage today?? or do you have any gophers drinking beer around ya? :-P

Mike Frye

The plural of anecdote is not data.

Your double-disc cars have all had a 'funky sound or feel'. That doesn't mean they all do.

mark kibort

Ive driven 15 or so including mine, all of them have this feel and sound. might be because of the "stuff in there) dual discs, etc. but, i would be open to see one that didnt do it. just as all 928s auto window rattle a bit going up and down.

certainly open to why this is, expecially since ive had a few of them with completely new parts. (some with everything but the arm replaced)

mark kibort

can you get it into gear with the car in neutral and pedal to the floor? can it go into gear easily quickly, or do you have to wait a sec or two or it grinds.

release or incomplete release is something different. are you getting slip after the release of the clutch? Im just trying to understand the symtoms.

jbrob007

Ducman, No gophers just me... oh, and the beer

Mark, Sometimes if I start it in 1st gear with pedal to the floor - I could NOT get it out of gear. I'd have to turn it off, take it out of gear, and start again... Then I could get it into any gear, 1st - reverse, but not easily. Once driving it was tough to shift, no GRINDING per se, but it was crunchy & very notchy. Downshifting was virtually IMPOSSIBLE especially from 3rd to 2nd. While sitting at idle & in neutral it would chatter like no tomorrow - push in clutch and it would go away. Push the clutch to the floor and it would come back. Let off the clutch an inch and it would go away... Has a slight "chirp" coming from the throwout bearing area when depressing the clutch pedal. Very frustrating.

Tonight I trimmed off approx 14mm of the new MC spring guide post and the bottom 2 winds of the spring. Reinstalled, bled the MC and took her out. MUCH better shifting with less crunch / notch and much easier down shifting - still not perfect, but manageable. Started to chatter at idle & in neutral again so I tightened up the clutch pedal rod - probably preloading the MC a bit. Any chance the throwout bearing is the culprit? It shows no signs of failure (no grease throwing, etc) with the exception of the chirp...

jbrob007

Oh... sorry to mention. The clutch doesnt slip at all once engaged - runs like a champ. In the tranny I'm running Mobil One 75W90 with 1 quart of the same with friction modifier... or is that the other way around. Its been six months since I changed from Redline (it was weeping at the tranny gaskets/seals) & I dont recall the mix, but it was as recommended on here.

I may go back to a high quality petroleum 75W90 gear oil as the current mixture may be tooo slippery for the syncros... Just a thought... what do you guys think???

Thanks!

Landseer

Did system work always work well prior to the oil change?


Regardless of claims of new parts, I'd drop the clutch set, inspect for proper sequencing of the disks, and check for parts wear.

Something doesn't seem right within the clutch pack.

The acuation sleeve can wear and it will affect engagement point significantly.

The intermediate shaft can wear and therefore the disks get hung up in wrong spot. It needs to be lubed with a special grease.

The throwout and pilot bearing can both wear but I don't think that would effect engagement.

Some of the noise could be torque tube, too, which clouds the issue but shouldn't affect engagement.

I have a twin pack set that I removed from an 86.5 last weekend. It had what appeared to be a fairly worn acuation sleeve.

Mike Frye

Joel,

My money is on the fact that the original problem was the clutch MC rod being too long, but now you've got other issues. I think the TOB is usually the culprit when you've got that noise during clutch actuation but nothing when it's all the way in or out. I had that problem with mine when I first got it and almost all of my searches on here showed consensus was that that noise was the TOB.

You also said you had Colin's shifter installed now too, right? I'm not familiar with it, but is it possible that isn't adjusted properly or this this is part of the effects you're feeling now? Maybe go back to stock on the shifter until you get the rest ironed out and then convert?

FWIW- I've done one clutch twice so clearly I'm an expert on double-disc clutches...

Mike Frye

Mine is one that did have everything but the arm replaced, including the release arm bushing. If it felt 'off' or made funky noises afterward I'd think I screwed it up.

Landseer

parts to check, assuming yours still has an issue....

Mrmerlin

you cut off 14 mm off the tip?
it should be about 4.5 mm off the tip of the piston.
did you feel the feed hose for proper routing?

Ducman82

Joel, how is the slip bushing (circled part above) bolted in? it SHOULD be in front of the mounting holes (closer to clutch pack) not on the other side (closer to TT) i messed that up once, but caught my self.

jbrob007

Merlin, It seems I got a bit confused in that regard. I've read to take off 14mm or .555" and I remember seeing 4.5mm but couldnt find it again. Anyway, it seems to have the right effect and doesnt leak into the interior or anywhere else. Hopefully, it'll be O.K. Cant even see the feed (blue) hose except right below the reseviour. I did bleed the entire system with a power bleeder - couple times with no signs of air.

Landseer, Thanks for the pics and comments. The original shifter worked well, but it had its problems downshifting to 2nd... The clutch was already chattering, etc, which is why I started down this path - the new shifter was an extra perk for me I dont think the Lizard Shifter is the problem. Its installed and adjusted well - gets all six gears - if its misaligned you cant get R & 1st or 4th & 5th. You can feel allot more of EVERYTHING with Colin's shifter cause its connected directly with the coupler with minimal bushings. There is no slop built in unlike the stock shifter which had a tendency to "hide" misalignment. Anyway, it sounds as if the clutch pack needs to come out and get inspected... Damn!

Jake, I'll check the connection, but I think its correct. You any good at removing a clutch pack? I already have a BRAND SPANKING NEW in the box TOB... Figure its time to find out for sure what the problem is...