Third compressor ......,?
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,405
Likes: 113
From: North East UK
Third compressor ......,?
Well.., this Friday I have to take my car back to have the third air=con compressor fitted in fourteen months (warranty). Everytime it leaks from the front input shaft behind the pulley wheel. Although the aircon is nice and cold, however, due to it leaking oil the belt is almost saturated and I dont want to run it.
Here,s hoping it,s third time lucky.., but I wont hold my breath
Anyone any idea why it keeps leaking oil from there ( bad recon me thinks ???)
Could the shop be doing something wrong re fitting ?
Ken
80 928 S
5 Speed
UK
Here,s hoping it,s third time lucky.., but I wont hold my breath
Anyone any idea why it keeps leaking oil from there ( bad recon me thinks ???)
Could the shop be doing something wrong re fitting ?
Ken
80 928 S
5 Speed
UK
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,405
Likes: 113
From: North East UK
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Joined: Jun 2004
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Assuming you are using R12 or R134a and not a blend of refrigerant having R22:
If it is the same compressor failing, meaning they are attempting to replace the nose seal assembly, then the issue is either:
A) rusted shaft
B) incorrect seal kit
C) improper repair technique
If these are 3 different compressors failing, the issue is either:
A) If the compressors are all from the same rebuilder and the rebuilder is not OEM, then possibly its the rebuilder's parts or technique, or your system pressures are running too high because of:
i) overcharge
ii) failed condenser fans
iii) intermittent blockage in the system
B) If the compressors are from different rebuilders, then:
your system pressures are running too high because of:
i) overcharge
ii) failed condenser fans
iii) intermittent blockage in the system
http://www.griffiths.com/shop/index....th=15_16_72_73
If it is the same compressor failing, meaning they are attempting to replace the nose seal assembly, then the issue is either:
A) rusted shaft
B) incorrect seal kit
C) improper repair technique
If these are 3 different compressors failing, the issue is either:
A) If the compressors are all from the same rebuilder and the rebuilder is not OEM, then possibly its the rebuilder's parts or technique, or your system pressures are running too high because of:
i) overcharge
ii) failed condenser fans
iii) intermittent blockage in the system
B) If the compressors are from different rebuilders, then:
your system pressures are running too high because of:
i) overcharge
ii) failed condenser fans
iii) intermittent blockage in the system
http://www.griffiths.com/shop/index....th=15_16_72_73
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,405
Likes: 113
From: North East UK
Assuming you are using R12 or R134a and not a blend of refrigerant having R22:
If it is the same compressor failing, meaning they are attempting to replace the nose seal assembly, then the issue is either:
A) rusted shaft
B) incorrect seal kit
C) improper repair technique
If these are 3 different compressors failing, the issue is either:
A) If the compressors are all from the same rebuilder and the rebuilder is not OEM, then possibly its the rebuilder's parts or technique, or your system pressures are running too high because of:
i) overcharge
ii) failed condenser fans
iii) intermittent blockage in the system
B) If the compressors are from different rebuilders, then:
your system pressures are running too high because of:
i) overcharge
ii) failed condenser fans
iii) intermittent blockage in the system
http://www.griffiths.com/shop/index....th=15_16_72_73
If it is the same compressor failing, meaning they are attempting to replace the nose seal assembly, then the issue is either:
A) rusted shaft
B) incorrect seal kit
C) improper repair technique
If these are 3 different compressors failing, the issue is either:
A) If the compressors are all from the same rebuilder and the rebuilder is not OEM, then possibly its the rebuilder's parts or technique, or your system pressures are running too high because of:
i) overcharge
ii) failed condenser fans
iii) intermittent blockage in the system
B) If the compressors are from different rebuilders, then:
your system pressures are running too high because of:
i) overcharge
ii) failed condenser fans
iii) intermittent blockage in the system
http://www.griffiths.com/shop/index....th=15_16_72_73
If you have any useful data/advice for refitment and R12 volume etc, that would be good ? I,m starting to get paranoid about this whole fiasco now
Fingers crossed .., again !!!
Ken
80 928 S
5 Speed
UK
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 62
Your shop should know how to evacuate, charge and test the system:
i) pulling the correct vacuum
ii) inserting the correct amount of refrigerant (and oil; can't forget the refrigerant oil)
iii) checking the system pressures vs. the ambient air temperature against a refrigerant "P&T" chart
iv) checking the system for leaks with an electronic lead detector
v) doing a complete system performance check (ie. vent temps, actuators, checking if the fans are working, etc.)
vi) documenting the process and results on the work order (ie. noting the amount and type of refrigerant, amount and type of oil, vent temps, ambient air temps, low and high side pressures... just like a doctor).
If the shop is simply connecting the 'machine', pressing a button and walking away... that is what you should do... walk away and find another.
i) pulling the correct vacuum
ii) inserting the correct amount of refrigerant (and oil; can't forget the refrigerant oil)
iii) checking the system pressures vs. the ambient air temperature against a refrigerant "P&T" chart
iv) checking the system for leaks with an electronic lead detector
v) doing a complete system performance check (ie. vent temps, actuators, checking if the fans are working, etc.)
vi) documenting the process and results on the work order (ie. noting the amount and type of refrigerant, amount and type of oil, vent temps, ambient air temps, low and high side pressures... just like a doctor).
If the shop is simply connecting the 'machine', pressing a button and walking away... that is what you should do... walk away and find another.
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Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,405
Likes: 113
From: North East UK
Your shop should know how to evacuate, charge and test the system:
i) pulling the correct vacuum
ii) inserting the correct amount of refrigerant (and oil; can't forget the refrigerant oil)
iii) checking the system pressures vs. the ambient air temperature against a refrigerant "P&T" chart
iv) checking the system for leaks with an electronic lead detector
v) doing a complete system performance check (ie. vent temps, actuators, checking if the fans are working, etc.)
vi) documenting the process and results on the work order (ie. noting the amount and type of refrigerant, amount and type of oil, vent temps, ambient air temps, low and high side pressures... just like a doctor).
If the shop is simply connecting the 'machine', pressing a button and walking away... that is what you should do... walk away and find another.
i) pulling the correct vacuum
ii) inserting the correct amount of refrigerant (and oil; can't forget the refrigerant oil)
iii) checking the system pressures vs. the ambient air temperature against a refrigerant "P&T" chart
iv) checking the system for leaks with an electronic lead detector
v) doing a complete system performance check (ie. vent temps, actuators, checking if the fans are working, etc.)
vi) documenting the process and results on the work order (ie. noting the amount and type of refrigerant, amount and type of oil, vent temps, ambient air temps, low and high side pressures... just like a doctor).
If the shop is simply connecting the 'machine', pressing a button and walking away... that is what you should do... walk away and find another.
Ken
80 928 S
5 Speed
UK
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Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,405
Likes: 113
From: North East UK
..., just an update really. I got the car back from the shop with new compressor fitted, they have retro fitted r134a with the associated red and blue ports. I,ve only driven it twenty odd miles and although it,s working and best of all ( No leaking from the front shaft seal) it does,nt seem as cold as r12.
Maybe a bit more use might improve it ? I don,t really know ?
The new compressor seems to have allen bolts on the front cover whereas the old one did,nt, and does look a more robust unit?
I did replace the heater valve recently, and short hose.
I have noticed when you switch to dash centre vent position I get nice cool air from the upper vent , zero from lower centre vent.., then after about twenty seconds it fades. Can anyone confirm if I should get cold air all the time in this position please ?
Ken
80 928 S
5 Speed
UK
Maybe a bit more use might improve it ? I don,t really know ?
The new compressor seems to have allen bolts on the front cover whereas the old one did,nt, and does look a more robust unit?
I did replace the heater valve recently, and short hose.
I have noticed when you switch to dash centre vent position I get nice cool air from the upper vent , zero from lower centre vent.., then after about twenty seconds it fades. Can anyone confirm if I should get cold air all the time in this position please ?
Ken
80 928 S
5 Speed
UK
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Verify that the vacuum side of the HVAC ccontrols is intact. Your symptom of the change in airflow is typical to a comb flap that isn't working correctly. That's the little comb-shaped diverter in the center vent that restricts center-vent flow when you select floor or derost positions. The idea is that it then pushes more air flow to those other vents when you select them. The 'fail' position of the comb flap is closed. While it may in fact be the comb flap actuator that's at fault, all the actuators and the connecting tubing need to be intact for the comb flap to work correctly. The workshop manual has a good procedure, plus there are some good tutorials on the popula tips pages. I think I followed the guides at John Pirtle's site and did fine with it. You'll need a little MitiVac hand pump or equivalnet, with a few sections of vacuum tubing and conectors, to do all the tests. Basic testing is done from the engine bay by the brake booster, then you'll access the vacuum solenoids in the center console via the carpeted side covers. The little rack of solenoids for all the vacum actuators is forward in the car from the forward (in the car) edge of the radio chassis. Roger has replacement diaphragms for many of the actuators. Else leaking diaphragms require the whole actuator.
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Ken.
Sorry to hear of all your a/c problems. I know how essential cold air is to the 928 experience. Your patience with all of this has been commendable. It seems that the only thing you overlooked was changing the a/c shop you use. Fool you once shame on them. Fool you twice shame on you.... THREE TIMES??????? I'm just saying..............Get your money back and go to a real a/c shop and get it fixed right, replace everything that is even questionable and move on with enjoying your 928. It may get expensive but ask your self how much all the frustration and disappointment was worth.
Disregaurd everything I just posted if your wife owns the a/c/shop you have been using.
I say this with love.
Sorry to hear of all your a/c problems. I know how essential cold air is to the 928 experience. Your patience with all of this has been commendable. It seems that the only thing you overlooked was changing the a/c shop you use. Fool you once shame on them. Fool you twice shame on you.... THREE TIMES??????? I'm just saying..............Get your money back and go to a real a/c shop and get it fixed right, replace everything that is even questionable and move on with enjoying your 928. It may get expensive but ask your self how much all the frustration and disappointment was worth.
Disregaurd everything I just posted if your wife owns the a/c/shop you have been using.
I say this with love.
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,405
Likes: 113
From: North East UK
Many thanks Bob for your advice..., just to reiterate the programme control lever setting I,m using is the ECO setting, after moving from position AUTO which gives cold air to screen vents, as soon as I switch to ECO it gives cold air for around twenty seconds and fades ? I have seen the comb flap operate. Having just had a look in my 1980 MY driver handbook it quotes ( ECO- Automatic heater control ) No cooling possible because the compressor is switched off to save fuel. This programme is recommended in transitionary periods and during cold weather.- unquote) So how come it blows cold air for this short period, is it residual cold air left over from the screen vents?
Ray .., thanks for the input, no my wife does,nt own the aircon shop, if she did she would set fire to my 928 (ha ha). But the owner of the shop is a very good friend and has,nt charged me any labour throughout. The problem was the company who reconned the compressor. Hopefully as I said the new one looks good allround .
Many thanks both.
Ken
80 928 S
5 Speed
UK
Ray .., thanks for the input, no my wife does,nt own the aircon shop, if she did she would set fire to my 928 (ha ha). But the owner of the shop is a very good friend and has,nt charged me any labour throughout. The problem was the company who reconned the compressor. Hopefully as I said the new one looks good allround .
Many thanks both.
Ken
80 928 S
5 Speed
UK
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From: Ball Ground, GA
"Having just had a look in my 1980 MY driver handbook it quotes ( ECO- Automatic heater control ) No cooling possible because the compressor is switched off to save fuel. This programme is recommended in transitionary periods and during cold weather.- unquote) So how come it blows cold air for this short period, is it residual cold air left over from the screen vents?"
AC works by pumping refrigerant around the system. When liquid refrigerant is sprayed into the evaporator in the HVAC plenum, and then evaporates, it cools the aluminum evaporator, which cools the air flowing thru it.
When you turn off the compressor, you still have some pressurized refrigerant in the lines, the condenser, and the receiver/dryer. The system pressure will slowly equalize by continuing to spray the refrigerant into the evaporator, so until the pressure is equalized throughout the system, you will get cooling.
AC works by pumping refrigerant around the system. When liquid refrigerant is sprayed into the evaporator in the HVAC plenum, and then evaporates, it cools the aluminum evaporator, which cools the air flowing thru it.
When you turn off the compressor, you still have some pressurized refrigerant in the lines, the condenser, and the receiver/dryer. The system pressure will slowly equalize by continuing to spray the refrigerant into the evaporator, so until the pressure is equalized throughout the system, you will get cooling.