U-928

I just removed mine. Was a good cheap temp. solution but cannot get a "nice" way to hold it to the radiator firmly enough. I've had it fall out/off twice now. Last time causing the lower hose to hit the p/s pump, burn a hole in it and burst.

Now building my own shroud and replacing the contour set-up with two of these:



Dual speed, 1000CFM x2 (low) and 1450CFM x2 (high) and they're quiet, with 21Amp draw on high speed.

Tony

Unless i have missed it, what is the stock CFM on our set ups (87s4).

My car has always ran mariginally hot -too hot here in vegas during the summer, espically now with the SC on it, stop and go traffic and AC on.
HI oil temps and 230+ water temps are not uncommon. Its to the point now where i dont like drving it on certain days in the summer.

I dont really want to change out the fans if there isnt any gains in airflow from it.

On the free way i can get the temp to drop..but on some days when its REALLY hot, it actually doesnt! If even thought of adding another small radiator somwere for more cooling capacity.

Fabio421

Do you have an external oil cooler instead of the in tank cooler? If not, that alone should help quite a bit.

Lizard928

Have you had your radiator cleaned out?

DR

Hi Tony,

This shouldn't be happening on a Twin Screw type install, at least I haven't seen it before. I think you may have some other cooling issues and doubtful that the stock S4 fans are not up to the task for your setup...unless they are going bad.

Check the connectors on the stock fans at the fan motors and see if they are literally toast..this is an indicator of high loads from the fans slowly failing.

WallyP

Tony,

Make sure that you have no hot air recirculation. Air flow thru the radiator should be controlled so no air can by-pass the radiator, and that no engine compartment air can circle back thru the radiator.

FredR

Tony,

I take it you know the hot temp dodges but if not:

1. Clean radiator [inside and out]- preferably one with upgraded capacity
2. Dilute the glycol mix down to 33% or even 20% and use redline water wetter- it really works and also contains an anti corrosion package. I do not know your winter temps so you have to bear that in mind.
3. I believe the stock fans move in the region of 2700 cfm -they should not be an issue if working correctly.
4. That photo showing 230F [maybe 240f]? That is 110C- man that is hot if correct- have you checked the gauge calibration/checked the readout on ST2?
I typically run at about 89C with 40C ambients creeping up to 91C at around 44C if that helps.

Regards

Fred

Imo000

How did you secure it?

FredR

Before you chaps go throwing away your SPAL kits just remember replacement motor elements when you can source them can be had relatively cheap. The stock replacement fan motors are quite expensive such that in my case, 1 replacement motor was going to cost more than the SPAL 12 inch dual fan kit which when installed is very neat and compact. I had to mess around making mine adapt and I am sure the adder Dave R puts on to adapt the kit to a 928 more than justifies the messing around involved. If you have run these for a few years like I have then simply purchase two replacement sealed motors, fit them and keep the current ones as viable spares just in case.

When I indentified this bizarre difference in the two motor specs I was somewhat concerened but to be fair to date they have performed well albeit I do not do a high mileage and rarely if ever see rain. I do see plenty of dust though- and then some! I concluded that the mode of operation should prevent problems as the fan blade assembly covers the motor and blows air around the motor body in effect.

I do want to purchase a spare motor just to be ready so thanks to Dave for passing that link. The people I dealt with could not offer a replacement part for the motor.

Regards

Fred
Regards

Fred

Ducman82

here is the contour set up im using. fits great, works great.







as you can see, just the little itty bitty part at the bottom is not covered. i even added foam along the edges to seal the unit to the core.

U-928

Built an AL shroud, they are bolted to the shroud.

Glen McCartney

I contacted Tech support at SPAL about the part number for the sealed motor for the 30102130 dual fan setup.

Here is their response -
"You will need to purchase a single fan part number 30102038 as you cannot buy replacement motors. The motors and blades are balanced multiple times during manufacturing so they are considered one assembly. You will want to take the motor and blade off the donor fan and install it on your dual fan assembly. Let me know if you have any questions."

fraggle

Well that's pretty farking stupid as it's very easy to damage the damn thing during diassembly. I'd hope they'd just send a matched set - fan and motor or something.

Fabio421

Here is a dual set-up with that part number but it appears they have made an aluminum shroud.

http://www.universalpartsinc.com/det...?part=RS1006HP



And here is the single sealed unit if you are doing a replacement. Is $114 a good price?
http://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/...duct_info.html

FredR

This is what SPAL told me when i made a general query but I reckon it is a load of tosh. If one looks at the stock assembly you can see the balance weights on the fan blades [small as they are]. Electric motors generally run very smoothly and usually are in no need of additional balancing so basically it is the fan unit that is being balanced. Thus if you mount a balanced fan on a new motor I doubt there would be any balance problems.

Even the part number they recommend is not the same fan unit.

Regards

Fred