Brilliant, but FIRST I have to get the shaft out. Mine is stuck hard in the bushings. Last time I had the TT on the floor I tried to move shaft 1mm so it would be exactly at spec position. It would not budge even with a BFH. Any suggestions?

 

There is slim hope. The vibration is not RPM related.

 

when is the TT replacement party? Need help? I can come over Friday?

 

Brian: Friday is a good day. I need help figuring out how to get the TT apart. I have new bearings and bushings.

 

I'll try and be there to lend a hand on Friday.

 

Hi Bill, do you know anyone with a hoist. A different car on hoist, TT vertically under hoist, support outer tube on some blocks, lower hoist to press on shaft, shaft WILL begin to slide out.

Good luck

 

FWIW be careful about the testing phase on the rear flexplate ,
what can happen is that you will seize the rear flexplate to the TC after bolts are removed,
most of the connections here are usually rusted and simply removing the bolts at the TC and thus spinning the driveshaft could possibly seize the rear flex to the TC snout .

You might consider adding a few pins to the damper on either end of it this will prevent it from sliding around,
drill a small hole and insert a rivet on either side of the damper

 

Stan: When I had the tranny out recently I cleaned up the snout and put antiseize on it. When I unfastened the flexplate yesterday and moved the TC and flexplate apart an 1/8" or so, the flexplate spun very freely without any drag on the TC, so I felt comfortable doing the test. But I have encountered some flexplates that were stuck on the TC snout, so your warning is a good one for others. I will add it to my original post.

I've done that to the bearing carriers and the damper when I have found them loose on other cars. In my case, it appears I will need a ton of force to get them out of and back into the tube.

 

I used a 3ft lever between the drive shaft front clamp and the end of the TT with some wooden blocks between to protect the metal. It took some force but did move, then used larger blocks of wood until the shaft had cleared two of the bearings and was able to pull the shaft out of the last bearing. This on a manual car, but I am sure the principal can be transferred.

 

Ew....Doesn't look like I'll be fixing this today. Rear bearing carrier came apart [Correction - this is the damper carrier]. This accounts for the odd noises as parts of it bounced around on the shaft. Carriers are not avaliable separately, at least not used in good condition. So, I just ordered a rebuilt, early style (25mm with shim slot) TT, from 928 International. OUCH!

 

Just curious Bill. Why not rebuild with Constantine's parts?

 

Hmmm...good point. I'm in a time crunch. I'm satisfied with the life expectancy of the stock stuff. Also, I've had good experience with the PKlamp, and I will have the option to shim the rebuilt TT I ordered, which I have done on other late model cars using the earlier TT. The rebuilt will be here Tuesday, standard UPS shipping. I definitely respect Constantine's products, but if I could have gotten a good used carrier, I would have gone that route. An early rebuilt came up next in my mind.

Also, this is largely facetious, but by the feel of the shaft (no play, quiet remaining bearing unless the factory had installed more than 2, lack of vibration), I could have removed the broken part that was flopping around and reinstalled the tube.

 

I don't mean just the constantine clamp but the super bearings as well.

 

Yes, I understood that. Right now, like Greece, I'm going into an unanticipated extreme austerity period, and it may last forever.

 

I've used a lot of rebuilt shafts, from 928 International, over the years, with great success.

The only downside is that all of the bearing carriers are now getting very old and the rubber, in all of them, is just as old. Don't expect the "rebuilt" tube to last as long as the original....