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Yeah, that and Wally's AC write up should help a lot. If all you know is "AC does not work" and the guides seem like Greek, and you can't figure out where to start, start a new thread and you should get more specific advice. You would need some tools. If not, take it to an AC shop.
Did a gearbox and TT swap on my '79 for a later one (so changed the rear support member too) and as soon as I started the drive home it was vibrating horrible.
Double checked everything including dropping the clutch out again (We know the box and TT was good in the donor car).
Spent ages trying stuff and scratching our heads to finally track it down to a bad distributor cap that happened to fail at the time the car was turned off after a 175 mile trip to the work shop where the parts were.
Did a gearbox and TT swap on my '79 for a later one (so changed the rear support member too) and as soon as I started the drive home it was vibrating horrible.
Double checked everything including dropping the clutch out again (We know the box and TT was good in the donor car).
Spent ages trying stuff and scratching our heads to finally track it down to a bad distributor cap that happened to fail at the time the car was turned off after a 175 mile trip to the work shop where the parts were.
I don't want to get into the AC. It was not too straightforward either. I started out with R12 and ended up with R134a. We never did get to that heater valve, but the AC eventually blew cold and I sent him on his way while I went inside to do battle with my foot and leg cramps.
the BEST thing to get rid of cramps in a hurry are:
> cold compress
> drink some pickle juice and/or eat a pickle. The sodium from them is easily and quickly absorbed. Used to do this when I played tennis in summer and got cramps, 5 minutes or less and cramps are gone!
Cramps are _generally_ nervous system issues, and not generally related to dehydration.
Salt (sodium source, since we can suck it down straight) & Potassium are primary cramping problems..and solutions in many cases.
Now..the pickle...its the _vinegar_ in the juice that zaps your nervous system back to normal..not by absorption, but from the reaction to the acidic vinegar.
So..next time you have a big fat charlie horse, take a shot of straight vinegar..save the trip to the store for pickles.
...serious.
I Live with someone that knows how nature can kill her 1000 different ways in a 50mi run.
Give me building size, construction, ceiling height, insulation, window/glass size, and city/state, and I will run a rough / pretty accurate heat load calc sometime this week, if you like...
2 ton is gracious plenty for 20x30 garage. In most cases. I am going to insulate my 900 sq. ft. And put in whatever I can scavenge, but I will probably end up around 2 tons.
So I'm looking to cool a 25x45 space, with west-facing uninslated wood doors. Rest is insulated. Just north of Los Angeles by a handful of miles. Reality is that the big doors do open and people bring cars in hot. That's kid of what drives the three-ton decision. Interesting to hear what your calculator says. By the time I'm all done including installation and wiring, the cost difference between two and three-ton splits isn't much. If you have a recommendation on brand/source/etc. that would be handy.
Maybe the next clinic day will be dedicated to garage HVAC.
My ducting to the house is in the garage..any reason I could not put a large vent on that main line?
There are fire code issues around penetrations between the garage, and living spaces. I'm kinda surprised you have them. As far as tapping an existing duct, another code probably prevents that so that garage fumes don't get drawn into the living spaces. And to be effective, you'll need a return line for warm air back to the air handler. Big chances to gas your family. A separate system for the garage is a must IMHO, with it's own thermostat and local fans. A split system will work well for me, with the inside unit mounted high and out of the way. Might be an option for you if you want a real permanent installation. Otherwise a window unit or (gasp...) one of those inefficient portable units with a hose going outside might be enough.
There is an old song and the main words are "Only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the mid-day sun". In Hong Kong I did attend the "The firing of the Noon Day Gun" even when the temperature was around 100 degrees F and around 100% humidity, and I found the best treatment was lots of cold beer.
As I get younger - every day, until I look into the mirror to shave and I now find I can get down and under the car when on jack stands, however, getting back up vertical is becoming a problem with cramps and joints pains without any sun.
Take care you are need in the 928 community and if you work outside in the sun, demand an umbrella and liquid refreshments from the person you are assisting. That is the least they can do in assisting you solve their problems.
Dr. Bob....what is the building made of? Block, wood, etc...ceiling height? (BTW...if you are opening and closing doors, 3-ton will work fine....the problem with oversizing, is humidity, as the unit will satisfy before pulling adequate moisture from the space, but with uninsulated doors, combined with open & shut, probably be fine)
As far as Mfg...it's like ford / chevy...I am a lennox dealer, so a bit biased, but Goodman is an el-cheapo brand, with a great warranty...For me personally, I would go for the cheapest thing for my workshop...
I am actually thinking of doing a ductless mini-split unit in my shop....
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