Ducman82

slight problem that i have run in too.

so the beru end is to small for the thick wire..... that can be solved by a little trimming.
but the main issue is the wire core is to big to fit in the shaft of the brass end to be crimped.

i called MSD and they said not to even use the porsche boots because they are made for solid core wires.....

any thoughts on that? id like to keep dirt and crap out of the spark plug hole if i can help it.

Jerry Feather

Sounds like that is similar to calling the IRS to help you with your tax return.

My suggestion is to buy the correct wire in the first place; and that is 7mm metal core wire rather than the carbon or whatever that other stuff actually is; and yours looks like it is probably 8mm.

Too, I think when they talk about "solid wire core" they are actually talking about metal wire that is in fact stranded rather that metal wire that is solid, such as you have in the romex wiring in your house.

In other words I think the phrase "solid wire" in the contest of spark plug wires is actually "flex wire" which is "stranded."

Then use or reuse the Porsche spark plug wire ends where they are intended to be used.

Also, see my pictures about the crimper I got on eBay that I mentioned above. It works great.

The second set of crimping dies will have to be modified a little, where the pen point is pointing, in order to properly crimp the stranded wire end into the threaded metal shaft of the brass ferrel. You will need clearance so the die does not disrupt the threads when you crimp on the shaft just above the threads.

Jerry Feather

Hilton

Interesting.. I had a quick look and there are some dies for ratcheting crimpers which look like they may do it correctly. Positions 1 and 3 on the ebay one perhaps?

MTNC48-H1:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mountain-SO2...#ht_1502wt_942

And a pic of the Beru crimper.

Ducman82

i could get the stock wire, then i would have to figure out how to crimp an LS2 coil pack end on to it... hummm

Jerry Feather

Hilton, I think the correct openings in the jaws you show would likely be 3 and 4(or is it A?). On the one I bought the one much like A is similar to the slot where I have the pen pointing where I will have to grind off the part of it that will damage the threads when the small shaft is crimped. I haven't done that yet, so I can't report about that yet. I am concerned that the single indent might bend the shaft a little amd make it difficult to screw in afterward.

Too, the crimper I bought for about $77, with both sets of jaws, will only put one slot in the ferrel at a time, and the one you are showing looks like it will give two. Then, the BERU one looks like it will give five or six slots at a time with one crimp, or maybe not since the picture you show looks much more like the eBay one I bought with one at a time. I doubt that the extra effort in making two three four or even five or six crimps on each wire end, if that were the case, is worth the extra $250.

Hilton, I wonder what the cost is of the crimper that the $12 jaws you show fits into?

Jerry Feather

svpmx83

As the noise supression is in the 928 plug connectors, and the factory leads are stranded non resistive (solid core) wire.
I would be using the factory 928 leads cut to length and reterminated for the ls2 coils using standard msd or similar 7mm crimp ends.

Ducman82

being that im using nothing stock about the ignition system, would i even need the noise supression in the stock plug ends? im just wondering if the MSD LS2 coils will work well with the stock Beru wire....

ROG100

We stock the Beru ends and 7mm wire if that helps you at all.

Ducman82

iv gotten everything but the stock wire from ya :-P

im just worried that Indeed the spark plug boot has a resistor or some other jazz in it.

Hilton

IIRC, the stock 928 plug boots have 3k ohm resistance.

You can probably measure it with a meter.

edit: I've got a broken spark plug boot somewhere in the garage - I'll go see if I can dig it out and measure for kicks

Hilton

Ok, I was probably a bit heavy handed, but here's the insides of a stock spark plug boot

There's a 4cm-ish 3k ohm ceramic resistor in the upper end of the boot. It shows zero resistance from the lower exposed part of the contact to the spark plug.

(I didn't destroy a good unit; this plug boot was already cactus - the top end of it got busted by a chain when lifting the engine on a hoist)

svpmx83

as most modern spark plugs now include a suppression resistor, the actual wire choice should not be a factor (the LS2 uses R plugs so the coils will be specced for it).
If you intend to use the reccommended non-resistor W7D? plugs then I would definitely suggest the Beru ends, if not for you, then for the poor guy at the lights beside you listening to his radio and the big bonus is they fit and seal the plug wells properly.

hacker-pschorr

The ratching crimp tool I have came with five dies, three of them look like the ones with this unit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-in-1-Crimp...35b975&vxp=mtr

I've also used the factory Buru crimper, which makes a perfect octagon crimp on the barrel portion of the end - which is the end crimp on the Buru tool that is "missing" from the die posted above.

I don't see that die in the eBay crimper or the one I have. Sure you could use the other die that simply creases one side of the fitting. Just curious if you found the "correct" one.

Do you have a better photo of the die you are using?

Jerry Feather

Here are a couple of pictures of the die I will use to crimp the brass ferrel onto the wire insulation. It has only one crimp "line" or "indent," but on the one I mocked-up I crimped it about 5 times evenly around the ferrel and it works great.

Jerry Feather

hacker-pschorr

That's the same die I have with mine.

I'm sure the single "pinch" works fine. I bought a set of Bosh wires a few years ago that only had a single crimp and the pin's were not crimped at all.

That being said, I will still probably buy the Buru crimper when it comes time to make some cables since I have at least three sets to make.