never again, alum radiator.
#1
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Thread Starter
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88S4.
938intl radiator. 25mo old. RIP.
TWO SHOPS have told me the same thing. Too much body flex and you'll slowly tear apart an alum radiator at the corners.
Was too far gone. Another grand for another radiator, oem this time, with overnight shipping.
Only advice, seriously losen up the upper mounts if you have an alum rad, to allow lots of movement in the chassis.
938intl radiator. 25mo old. RIP.
TWO SHOPS have told me the same thing. Too much body flex and you'll slowly tear apart an alum radiator at the corners.
Was too far gone. Another grand for another radiator, oem this time, with overnight shipping.
Only advice, seriously losen up the upper mounts if you have an alum rad, to allow lots of movement in the chassis.
#2
Rennlist Member
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WERD
#3
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This is the aluminum polished well into the rubber on my upper mounts. It moves, a lot.
Mark, stop sellin these to street cars without cages to stiffen up the fronts maybe?
Mark, stop sellin these to street cars without cages to stiffen up the fronts maybe?
![](https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/600374_10150988220333187_1938649144_n.jpg)
#4
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#6
Race Director
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Interesting......my 88 auto had a "who knows how old" stock radiator that worked great.....My racer has an aluminum radiator, but also has an 8 point cage..... I haven't heard of many failures from 928intl's radiator...vs Deveks that had quite a few.......
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#8
Nordschleife Master
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Get yourself a new Behr radiator - they're not that expensive, at least in Australia (where everything is usually a lot more $$ than the USA).
I've never understood why so many people think an all-aluminum radiator is going to be better than the factory ones; I guess peoples' perceptions of its quality are skewed by the fact that the radiator failed on *their* watch, so it must be bad, rather than realising it failed after 20 (or more) years of service.
I've never understood why so many people think an all-aluminum radiator is going to be better than the factory ones; I guess peoples' perceptions of its quality are skewed by the fact that the radiator failed on *their* watch, so it must be bad, rather than realising it failed after 20 (or more) years of service.
#10
Three Wheelin'
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If anyone's interested, here's my radiator mounting. These work well and I can't imagine ever having problems.
They are aluminum channels with rubber on the inside. Both top and bottom have them.
They are aluminum channels with rubber on the inside. Both top and bottom have them.
#11
Race Car
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Michael
#12
Race Car
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Dare I ask the cost and availability?
#13
Three Wheelin'
#15
Former Sponsor
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88S4.
938intl radiator. 25mo old. RIP.
TWO SHOPS have told me the same thing. Too much body flex and you'll slowly tear apart an alum radiator at the corners.
Was too far gone. Another grand for another radiator, oem this time, with overnight shipping.
Only advice, seriously losen up the upper mounts if you have an alum rad, to allow lots of movement in the chassis.
938intl radiator. 25mo old. RIP.
TWO SHOPS have told me the same thing. Too much body flex and you'll slowly tear apart an alum radiator at the corners.
Was too far gone. Another grand for another radiator, oem this time, with overnight shipping.
Only advice, seriously losen up the upper mounts if you have an alum rad, to allow lots of movement in the chassis.
The problem is the "cheap" core....not the flex. When I looked into building a high quality radiator for the 928 application, a "high quality" core was going to cost the radiator fabricators more than 928 International was charging for their complete radiator.
Didn't take me long to figure out how many of those I was going to be able to sell, to a group of people who think that Ford (and now Volvo) motor mounts must be better, just because they were cheaper....
Buy a Behr, while they are still available. The "last ones" on the planet are being sold, right now.