New Product: HID Headlamp Kits for the 928
#61
Under the Lift
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Mine came with metal shields as shown in Carl's pictures. I removed the tip shield, held on by tiny screws, on one side only to see what difference it made... ZERO. The shield inside the H4 lens housing seems to accomplish the same thing, at least for the tip part of theHID bulb's shield. The rest of the shield may be needed - I didn't fuss with that.
#62
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This is not smart for you or for anyone else... don't mess with the lights if you don't know what you are doing - This is a safety issue for everyone.
Brighter is not better if it comes at someone else's expense - after all they they are driving towards you... and are now blinded...
Alan
#63
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Nice for the H4's - Personally I recommend against putting HID in H5 lamps I think the results are far from acceptable (for others). It may be nice & bright - but the spill pattern is horrendous - the optics just aren't capable of controlling this much brightness.
You will get subjectively much better results for the driver with H4 lenses also. I realize the cost of the lenses is very significant - but they really are that much better.
Alan
#64
You can find appropriate red and white lamps here: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...rake-turn.html
Towards the bottom you'll also find the load resistors, which you'll need to tap in in parallel with the lamps in order to keep the lamp sensor module happy.
When I converted the brake and tail lamps on my motorcycle, which also has a lamp sensor system, I replaced the load series resistors in the sensor module with Schottky diodes, and this provided a good sensing voltage drop for either LEDs or incandescent lamps, without load resistors. Something similar might be a possibility for our cars....
Towards the bottom you'll also find the load resistors, which you'll need to tap in in parallel with the lamps in order to keep the lamp sensor module happy.
When I converted the brake and tail lamps on my motorcycle, which also has a lamp sensor system, I replaced the load series resistors in the sensor module with Schottky diodes, and this provided a good sensing voltage drop for either LEDs or incandescent lamps, without load resistors. Something similar might be a possibility for our cars....
#65
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Alan: the "I meant watt" when I wrote "amps" typo has been corrected:
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/hid_headlamp.php
All: we fitted that H4 bulb in a 928 here with 8" euro H4 headlamps and it dropped in perfectly. Photos were taken for the installation guide. The installation guide that shows how our product fits and the H4 installation is downloadable from our site. It is under the "Electrical Products" section toward the bottom: http://www.928motorsports.com/install.php
All: This morning I ordered in a small supply of 5000K bulbs in H4 and H5 formats. I will change the website to offer the consumer their choice of 8000K "cool white" or 4600K "warm white".
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/hid_headlamp.php
All: we fitted that H4 bulb in a 928 here with 8" euro H4 headlamps and it dropped in perfectly. Photos were taken for the installation guide. The installation guide that shows how our product fits and the H4 installation is downloadable from our site. It is under the "Electrical Products" section toward the bottom: http://www.928motorsports.com/install.php
All: This morning I ordered in a small supply of 5000K bulbs in H4 and H5 formats. I will change the website to offer the consumer their choice of 8000K "cool white" or 4600K "warm white".
Last edited by Carl Fausett; 07-02-2012 at 12:11 PM.
#66
Burning Brakes
I'm curious about what others have done with their lighting upgrades. For those that went to the H4s, did you go with DOT lenses or E-code lenses?
Along with that, those that have upgraded to HID how was the light disbursement with your chosen lense type?
Along with that, those that have upgraded to HID how was the light disbursement with your chosen lense type?
#67
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The ones I got for my Yamaha light up just as well as the original 27W incandescents, and with no heat. They also light instantly, which some studies have found makes a difference in reaction time for following drivers. Apparently your brain responds with less urgency to a signal that takes some milliseconds to build.
#68
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Light is definitely more scattered with the HIDs; this topic has been covered extensively in previous threads on the topic. IMHO, it's important to carefully align your headlights after switching to HID (and I'd strongly recommend H4s over H5s) and to be very conservative in your alignment. See the guide referenced in the first thread listed below for the alignment instructions I used and that have resulted in good results (I can count on one hand the number of times I've gotten the "turn off your high beams" flash in those seven years).
See the following threads:
FWIW, I'd recommend lower color temperatures over higher ones. Go with 5000 K (pretty neutral, similar to mid-day daylight) or below; you'll get more usable light. As a reference, tungsten lighting (the rather yellowish light you're used to from halogen and incandescent fixtures) tends to be more in the 3000 K range. The high temperature stuff is all about bling, and I've noticed that it even seems to be falling out of favor with that crowd.
Finally, regarding the discussion of LEDs for brakes, turn signals, etc., see the post My recommendations for exterior LED bulbs on '90 S4 (should mostly apply to '87+). I'll say no more here since it has little to do with 928MS HIDs.
Last edited by Ed Scherer; 06-29-2012 at 01:51 PM.
#69
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IMHO, it's important to carefully align your headlights after switching to HID
I also agree the topic of LED tailights is off-topic and belongs on its own thread.
#70
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The SHAPE of the shield on the bulb made a HUGE HUGE difference on my H4 Euro lenses, huge difference.
I will get that..gah..as soon as im on the road again.
#71
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All 928 Stock H4's are ecode - either 8" Bosch or 7" Bosch/Hella (& Cibies).
So that just leaves the H4 connector (not bulb) style 7" sealed beam units which are the crappiest 928 lighting option possible. Not H4's
Alan
#72
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I'd say there is no way to aim these and avoid significant spill... perhaps people are just being kind for now - or you aim is compensated very low
Its almost impossible to tell how the nominal aim is with overspec H5's unless you have a DOT nub aimer... which will probably yield horribly bad results...
Alan
#73
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The focus point is wrong wrong wrong and never will be correct. You can re-aim till the cows come home but it is still wrong. More glare for other road users.
The high beam is just shifting the globe back and forth.
Now this glare may be good in a crap motor cycle head light as it gives a wider brighter light spread, so perhaps some safety benifit and i know because I have it in my bike until I find a better solution. The night lighting is awful too, but I hardly ride at night.
read the FAQ on this web site. It sells very good quality products and when i researched this some years ago was the best I could find.
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/index.php
With HID there are two sorts of units, reflector and projector. reflector is cheaper & not normally sold aftermarket and not as good as projector.
In Australia all HID must have automatic height adjust and lens cleaning fitted.
The high beam is just shifting the globe back and forth.
Now this glare may be good in a crap motor cycle head light as it gives a wider brighter light spread, so perhaps some safety benifit and i know because I have it in my bike until I find a better solution. The night lighting is awful too, but I hardly ride at night.
read the FAQ on this web site. It sells very good quality products and when i researched this some years ago was the best I could find.
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/index.php
With HID there are two sorts of units, reflector and projector. reflector is cheaper & not normally sold aftermarket and not as good as projector.
In Australia all HID must have automatic height adjust and lens cleaning fitted.