SQLGuy

You can find appropriate red and white lamps here: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...rake-turn.html

Towards the bottom you'll also find the load resistors, which you'll need to tap in in parallel with the lamps in order to keep the lamp sensor module happy.

When I converted the brake and tail lamps on my motorcycle, which also has a lamp sensor system, I replaced the load series resistors in the sensor module with Schottky diodes, and this provided a good sensing voltage drop for either LEDs or incandescent lamps, without load resistors. Something similar might be a possibility for our cars....

whiteNSXs

Higher Kelvin does not mean more light but just higher color temperature.
Steve

jcorenman

This is true. Light scattering is proportional to (1/Lambda)^4... the fourth power of the wavelength. That's why the sky is blue. So the higher the color temperature, the shorter the wavelngth and the greater the scattering-- i.e. glare.

The French had it right with yellow fog lights. But that's the only thing they got right. Oh, and food. And wine. And maybe women.

finally!

Lots of posts here on it, had mine for some time, got from SuperBrightLeds.com

those along with resistor so no warning lamp in dash and cruise functions...
easy schmeazy

Stromius

finally!

Right... Must like hairy legged women who don't bathe daily!

robot808

I must be going to a completely different France. The women I have met are easily as elegant as the food and wine.

Carl Fausett

Exactly right.

I am surprised at the response to the 8000K bright-white light. I like them, but no matter.
If you would prefer a 5000K bulb in your kit, I can do that. That's an easy thing for me to change.

I guess if you think a 4500k or a 5000k light will keep you a little safer from being noticed and pulled over, that makes some sense.

Carl Fausett

I thought these pics might help the topic of "shielding"

The H5 bulb is on the left (no shielding) and the H4 bulb is on the right with the metal shields.

The pictures of the lights on the country road I posted are all H5. The delineations on the pavement are from the lensing only of course.

If you want a sharper cut off on your H5 bulb, and want to attract less attention - I can also order the H5 kit in a hybrid bulb. It has a Halogen low beam and a HID High beam. That way you are not running HID until your high beams are on.

What I put in these kits are HID low and hi-beam. Most of my driving in Wisconsin is country roads at night (read DEER) and that fit my application. Your application may prefer the halogen low beams.

Just a thought. Please advise.

Tom. M

The 928 Euro H4 light assemblies have a shield built into the housing. I've seen H4 bulbs out there with gray paint on the tips which also acts as a shield to diffuse the glare.... Best upgrade so has has been adding H4's to my GT..... maybe one of these days I'll do the HID's..

Speedtoys

Cool. Thanks Carl!

PorKen

Does the conversion H4 bulb shield fit well inside the ROW 8" H4?

I had trouble with an early HID (movable shield) conversion where the bulb's shield interfered with the H4's built in shield.

Speedtoys

Porken. I have the 8" euro H4 lenses. There is no issue with any of the three shield types I have tested.

The one that worked best for me, had no tip shield. Again, photo a little later today, promise.

fraggle

Kudos to Carl for chiming in with options to make this upgrade better fit the end user application. I know after buying my '03BMW 330xi the headlights in my 928 make me sad. Not 1980 camaro sad, but they're not quite up to the BMW standard.

Lizard928

I have seen a bunch of H4 HID bulbs that require the removal of the internal shield. This is normally not a problem due to the fact that the bulb itself now has a built in shield.