How to check vacuum leaks
#17
The injectors are held in with just an 0-ring so they should pull straight up and out with some force.
Since you have gone this far I would do the water bridge gaskets, seals, thermostat, and oil filler neck gasket.
Roger at http://s287999742.e-shop.info/
should be able to get all the parts needed to do the intake refresh.
Since you have gone this far I would do the water bridge gaskets, seals, thermostat, and oil filler neck gasket.
Roger at http://s287999742.e-shop.info/
should be able to get all the parts needed to do the intake refresh.
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Paul,
Yes, I have the filler neck already out and have the water bridge parts n their way. As soon as I get the $#@% allen bolt out, I will get that done too.
Any insight about the cam cover removal and the harness that has some isolation missing?
Thanks
Yes, I have the filler neck already out and have the water bridge parts n their way. As soon as I get the $#@% allen bolt out, I will get that done too.
Any insight about the cam cover removal and the harness that has some isolation missing?
Thanks
#19
Check this link for the cam cover removal: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...oval-help.html
I can't see much in that photo, but if the wire is missing insulation you can use electrical tape or heatshrink to cover it.
I can't see much in that photo, but if the wire is missing insulation you can use electrical tape or heatshrink to cover it.
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
CAM COVERS OUT
Paul,
Thanks, this is exactly the same problem I am having. I wish I had done additional research.
Anyway , I got the cam covers out last night (before reading this) and bent the front LH engine lifting a bit, so I will get back there and check the Hall Sensor and will shop for some of the products described on the thread.
Thank youhttps://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
Thanks, this is exactly the same problem I am having. I wish I had done additional research.
Anyway , I got the cam covers out last night (before reading this) and bent the front LH engine lifting a bit, so I will get back there and check the Hall Sensor and will shop for some of the products described on the thread.
Thank youhttps://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Injector Removal
I got the injectors removed. My son helped me out: we folded a rag a few times and wrapped it around the injectors. Then we pulled them straight. Yet a lot of force and concern about damaging them.
Parts are now ready for powder coating or painting (still thinking about it). The powder coater I quoted is asking $395 for the intake, cam covers and intake side covers. Long work for me, but coming along, slowly and carefully. Good thing the shark is not my DD.
Found that the Crank Position Sensor (3-pin male) connector was disintegrating just like the rear knock sensor . So tomorrow will look into it as I get the parts.
Parts are now ready for powder coating or painting (still thinking about it). The powder coater I quoted is asking $395 for the intake, cam covers and intake side covers. Long work for me, but coming along, slowly and carefully. Good thing the shark is not my DD.
Found that the Crank Position Sensor (3-pin male) connector was disintegrating just like the rear knock sensor . So tomorrow will look into it as I get the parts.
Last edited by westija; 07-12-2012 at 09:27 PM. Reason: Crank Position Sensor is the right part, not TPS as previously written
#22
Race Car
I got the injectors removed. My son helped me out: we folded a rag a few times and wrapped it around the injectors. Then we pulled them straight. Yet a lot of force and concern about damaging them.
Parts are now ready for powder coating or painting (still thinking about it). The powder coater I quoted is asking $395 for the intake, cam covers and intake side covers. Long work for me, but coming along, slowly and carefully. Good thing the shark is not my DD.
Found that the TPS (3-pin male) connector was disintegrating just like the rear knock sensor . So tomorrow will look into it as I get the parts.
Parts are now ready for powder coating or painting (still thinking about it). The powder coater I quoted is asking $395 for the intake, cam covers and intake side covers. Long work for me, but coming along, slowly and carefully. Good thing the shark is not my DD.
Found that the TPS (3-pin male) connector was disintegrating just like the rear knock sensor . So tomorrow will look into it as I get the parts.
#24
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Washington "Dc"
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Man aren't you glad you are doing this? Look at that time castle! You can start a Grunge band with all that stuff.
Ya read up on powercoating. Ive been considering it for my S3 but I do have more stuff on my plate (non-cosmetic) to do before I get to that step. In any case, great work keep up the momentum !
Ya read up on powercoating. Ive been considering it for my S3 but I do have more stuff on my plate (non-cosmetic) to do before I get to that step. In any case, great work keep up the momentum !
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Intake Update
UPDATE 2\
Intake refresh on its way.
Intake and Cam Covers dropped at powder coater, will let you guys know how it goes.
Some stuff I found that are being addressed:
1. Removed Water Bridge bolt it was stuck (see some posts above)
2. Knock Sensors were shot - have replaced them
3. Hall Sensor connector disintegrated - planning to rebuild
4. Crank Position Sensor connector disintegrated - planning to either rebuild the connector or replace the entire sensor, but it is pricey
5. Missing some clamps on Throttle Body hoses
6. Throttle Body buterfly had a lot of gum and although not sticking when I disassembled, it was likely not closing well.
7. Water Bridge Internal Seal surface was rough and the seal was disintegrating, although the thermostat looks fairly new
8. Not sure what the sensor behind the CPS is but I found that its plastic area (where it is bolted to the housing) is separated from it. I am planning to glue it.
9. Cannot remove the Engine Lift eye (front RH side). I have removed the Hall Sensor and its cover (with the two little allen bolts), the eye bolt from underneath but now the eye rotates but hits the hose that comes from the Air pump (not sure?) and a plate around the air pump. I cannot find a way to remove the engine lift eye. HELP!!
Some pictures for your enjoyment....
Intake refresh on its way.
Intake and Cam Covers dropped at powder coater, will let you guys know how it goes.
Some stuff I found that are being addressed:
1. Removed Water Bridge bolt it was stuck (see some posts above)
2. Knock Sensors were shot - have replaced them
3. Hall Sensor connector disintegrated - planning to rebuild
4. Crank Position Sensor connector disintegrated - planning to either rebuild the connector or replace the entire sensor, but it is pricey
5. Missing some clamps on Throttle Body hoses
6. Throttle Body buterfly had a lot of gum and although not sticking when I disassembled, it was likely not closing well.
7. Water Bridge Internal Seal surface was rough and the seal was disintegrating, although the thermostat looks fairly new
8. Not sure what the sensor behind the CPS is but I found that its plastic area (where it is bolted to the housing) is separated from it. I am planning to glue it.
9. Cannot remove the Engine Lift eye (front RH side). I have removed the Hall Sensor and its cover (with the two little allen bolts), the eye bolt from underneath but now the eye rotates but hits the hose that comes from the Air pump (not sure?) and a plate around the air pump. I cannot find a way to remove the engine lift eye. HELP!!
Some pictures for your enjoyment....
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Extra pictures:
The first one shows one of the Fuel Lines which is starting to crack, so it will be either replaced using the Dremmel as per Dwayne or replaced on its entirety.
Also on the first picture , you can see the sensor (?) that has the plastic cracked when it was still installed. It is the one with a round/eliptical plastic piece. What is this and any objection to have the plastic glued to the rest of the sensor?
The second one is just a better picture of the Hall Sensor, showing the connector that has disintegrated
The last picture (parts manual graph) shows item # 2 Plate and the item # 17 Hose that are preventing me to remove the Engine Lifting Eye from the Front RH side of the Engine. My Covers are out, but I am just trying to think how I will put them back with that in there. Plus the Hose # 17 does not seem to be in its better shape, but its clamp is buried over the Air Pump. Questions: How do I remove the Engine Lifting Eye (or the Air Pump (?) Plate) to get to it? Is it a major deal if I leave the Air Pump Hose # 17 above? See,ms that I have to go under and start removing a lot of stuff to get to it.
Thanks
The first one shows one of the Fuel Lines which is starting to crack, so it will be either replaced using the Dremmel as per Dwayne or replaced on its entirety.
Also on the first picture , you can see the sensor (?) that has the plastic cracked when it was still installed. It is the one with a round/eliptical plastic piece. What is this and any objection to have the plastic glued to the rest of the sensor?
The second one is just a better picture of the Hall Sensor, showing the connector that has disintegrated
The last picture (parts manual graph) shows item # 2 Plate and the item # 17 Hose that are preventing me to remove the Engine Lifting Eye from the Front RH side of the Engine. My Covers are out, but I am just trying to think how I will put them back with that in there. Plus the Hose # 17 does not seem to be in its better shape, but its clamp is buried over the Air Pump. Questions: How do I remove the Engine Lifting Eye (or the Air Pump (?) Plate) to get to it? Is it a major deal if I leave the Air Pump Hose # 17 above? See,ms that I have to go under and start removing a lot of stuff to get to it.
Thanks
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Forgot to ask: Hall Sensor has 3 wires (Red, Green and Black). I know the Green is in the Middle, does it matter the order of the other two (thinking about the connection to the female side).
The same question goes for the Crank Position Sensor - any order?
Follows a pix of the water bridge seal surface. Pretty rough (and this is after the first attempt to clean it)
Thanks
The same question goes for the Crank Position Sensor - any order?
Follows a pix of the water bridge seal surface. Pretty rough (and this is after the first attempt to clean it)
Thanks
#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yes, I got a lot of help on this one and feel it was worthwhile, the engine runs beautifully now and I have new parts that should not bother me for many years to come.
I ended up replacing practically everything I ran into problems, except the Hall Sensor that I re-did its connector using Roger's connector kit.
I noticed that I did not have the "after" pictures, so I am adding some below.
Since then I painted the cross brace black that the PO had as red (still shown here) and it looks pretty good.
And one of the best things is that with so much help from rennlisters, I got encouraged and have since done a lot of other things: A/C vacuum, Oil Pan Gasket, Engine Mounts, Power Steering Hoses, Windshield Washer system unplugging (removal of steel collars), B Pillar Speakers, etc.
Thank you everyone so much for all the help
I ended up replacing practically everything I ran into problems, except the Hall Sensor that I re-did its connector using Roger's connector kit.
I noticed that I did not have the "after" pictures, so I am adding some below.
Since then I painted the cross brace black that the PO had as red (still shown here) and it looks pretty good.
And one of the best things is that with so much help from rennlisters, I got encouraged and have since done a lot of other things: A/C vacuum, Oil Pan Gasket, Engine Mounts, Power Steering Hoses, Windshield Washer system unplugging (removal of steel collars), B Pillar Speakers, etc.
Thank you everyone so much for all the help