Speedtoys

How quick could a given # of people pull an S4 engine and replace it?


I have -2- AC lines to replace in there now..one definitely bad, one..will be bad soon so replace it too.

*sigh*


Also figure while it's out, a smart guy could be replacing front side components as well.

kevinlieb

I'd be up to lending a hand for a couple hours. I have good mechanical experience but not much with the 928 (yet...)

Speedtoys

*nods* Will have to see what comes outta the woodwork.

The -1- thing I do not have, is space at home.

Rob Edwards

Depends on the number of pairs of hands, their familiarity, your lift/liftbars/jackstands/tool collection, avoidance of stubborn/rusted/broken fasteners, lack of helmet fires, etc...

I would say three people is probably the most efficient team- one above, one below, and one chasing tools. If everyone knows what they're doing and there are no surprises I bet you could have the engine out in 4 hours, best case. It'll take twice as long to put it back in and get everything hooked up and re-fluided. Then there's the WYAITitis, which will (should?) consume far more time than the R&R ever could

Speedtoys

Rob:

Im not volunteering you, or anyone else..but I will have ample time in my life for a few weeks..in a few weeks..i could make this a Socal party as well.

I rely on Bill a lot up here..and I dont wanna wear out his toolbox ONLY.




PS: Would Devek headers go into the car ON the engine with it out ok? Thats a plus as well...

I imagine proximity to "oh ****" stuff at 928int, would be a Socal bonus as well.

Jim Morton

Jeff:

Here's a few comments from past experience:

With two people, I've pulled and and reinstalled an engine, starting after work spanning two evenings, car on a two post lift. The car had headers so that slows things some, depending on the brand/type of headers and who is doing the work.

There are only a couple of steps where three folks helps a bunch. One is re-installing the wiring harness through the firewall, that is if the engine management harness has been pre-installed on the engine. The other is spotting the engine down onto the cross member and lining up the bell housing dowels.

If you have an engine stand and plan to mount the engine, even if for a couple of hours, make sure you have long enough 12mm hardware as you can lose lots of time fumbling around for getting the correct engine stand bolts.

Make sure to counter hold the fittings on the block/girdle as you break free the oil cooler lines. As nicely described by Greg Brown, you can damage the block/girdle side sealing shoulder if the fittings break loose without softening the "loctite". Do a search on Greg's post to read more about this...

Last comment... be wary of how the engine power harness is currently installed especially around the cross-member, steering rack / lines as it's possible to have the harness installed wrong and tangled on components if not as done by the factory.

If you were a wee bit closer, I might be tempted to assist.

Have fun !

Rob Edwards

Hey Jeff-

Would love to host something but we're about to bug out of the house for a couple of months while the important 10% (additional garage space, the wife gets the other 90% of the space) of the remodel project happens. I'm gonna have bad "wrench withdrawl" by the end of it all...

Speedtoys

Jim:

I can make the car closer...and me with it, it drives, but its bout to go in the garage for the summer if I cant have A/C.

Speedtoys

Rob Edwards:

Could these lines be managed..with just lifting the engine "a lot"...or in your experience, just pull the sucker.

Bill Ball

I'm game. 4 hours with 3 people (minimum 2) is a reasonable expectation. Getting the upper bellhousing bolts loose is the only potential hassle. I have long offset wrenches for that, but you gotta hope they give up easily. There's no room in my garage for an engine hoist using the lift. It's just as easy to do it on jackstands on the ground, but not in my driveway (homeowners association rules). If all you are doing are the AC hardlines, then in theory we don't have to completely remove the motor - i.e., we could leave the electrical harness plugs inside the passenger compartment with the motor hanging in the air. But that is the only step we would save. Not worth it.

namasgt

What happen to your old engine?

Speedtoys

Namasgt:

Nothing at all..its just IN THE WAY of the A/C lines I need to replace.

Bill: Yer on. When we schedule this, I'll bring the smoker..and at the end of the day there will be smoked chicken & beans for all!

Make this a Norcal event??

Im WIDE OPEN after June 18th. And my bellhousing was out in December for a new TT..so they're good...im sure.

Will have on me:
Devek headers & Exhaust ready to bolt up
New Exhaust header gaskets
New high and low A/C lines
A low side R134 extension to put on the new line..so its not a PITA in the future
A new Dryer
A new front expansion valve
(You have tons of seals)

What else am I missing?

MM's are new..

Richard S

Jeff, regarding the headers, when you pull the engine you can remove the stock manifolds and replace any/all exhaust studs. I would recommend all new hardware, just for ease of installation and to avoid future problems. I don't believe you can fit the engine back in with the headers installed, so when you are ready to install the engine you lay the headers in the engine bay, lower the engine and hang/support it just above the mounts, then fasten up the headers.

Rich

namasgt

Upper A-arms are easier to change with the engine out if the bushings are worn out. I would replace the power steering lines if you have not replaced them yet. Don't forget to undo the big engine ground to the frame before pulling the engine out.

Bill Ball

Jeff:

I don't have a place to do this at my house. You'll need another location and an engine hoist.