Yikes!

I hope everything lines up...

 

Funny, a couple were walking by my garage Sunday when I was trying to figure out what to do. She asked me how much I would be willing to sell my car for. I said I would never sell it - besides, how much would someone pay anyway. Best car I ever had and everyone on this list understands what I'm saying.

Hopefully the block is ok. I know the crank was turning the cams when I tried to start the car. In hindsight, I didn't really listen to the wisdom I read. But maybe being stupid about approaching this problem didn't do any additional damage.

Anyone have some suggestions about what I should do now? Since the timing is unknown, there is no real 45 degree crank reference to the cams. Do I assume since I don't hear contact while attempting to start no further damage can be done by manually rotating to 45 as it sits?

 

John,

I can't advise you about turning the engine. I really can't tell what you're looking at in there. I think I'd have to just take it apart and get a feel for where everything is.

If it were me, I'd remove the belt and remove all spark plugs (to eliminate compression as a source of resistance) and then try to feel my way to where it needs to be using a normal 1/2 inch rachet (not a breaker bar) this way if there is any contact between valves and pistons you MIGHT feel it and avoid damage. The problem is by the time you feel any resistance it might be bending a valve and then you're sunk (but might not know it until all is buttoned up later).

I wish I could help you out on this one. All I can say is: Resign yourself to a long and methodical process, take your time, post pics and ask for help on here and hopefully when all is done you'll be up and running again.

 

I don't know how far back it was, at least 2 years, if you can find it, there is a thread about a car with a slipped belt; probably better to get one of the gurus on the phone.

 

Thanks guys.

The notches on the gears are about 180 from the back plate. Right cam gear is about 4 teeth off of the 180 notch. Have tried starting for the last three weeks not knowing I have a TB problem. Can't believe I can create more damage by hand rotating the crank. I think as long as the two gears are tied together with the belt, then I think I should be ok. Just want to avoid the gears from the snap rotation at certain points.

 

Just go-at it and get-it-done. Worst case, you have to pull the engine for the heads after doing all the maintenance (now including TB job). You've been in since 2005. 7 years, what appears to be zero maintenance, its given, you can pay it back.

Or punt.

 

No worries, I have a good 928 (even if it's an auto). Hoping for the best and won't have to join the bent valve club. Second choice is passenger side only. Worse case, full monty. Need new head gaskets sooner or later anyway.

 

See search here for 1985 928s no compression right bank

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ht-bank-2.html

Also see http://928s.webs.com/apps/photos/album?albumid=8592862

Please let me know it i can help

 

Damn.

 

I heard it was JHowell's fault.

 

He's the one who got me off my a$$ to look at things.

 

I would've used a sledge hammer to make sure that water pump pulley was seated properly, but all of you dainty "my car is special because it's a Porsche", 928 owners would cry at the mere suggestion.

In all seriousness, John did you reuse your old water pump? Or did you go with a rebuilt or a new Laso?

 

Did not change the pump. Rennlist was right in the middle of water pump controversy when I did my timing belt. People were having WP failure with rebuilt pumps so I figured keeping my pump was just as much a gamble.

 

Well I think it goes without saying that reusing it this time is out of the question. Get the engine turned to the "safe" position for belt removal. Did you get the center cover off so you can see the water pump?

 

Ripped it off.

The last picture is the backside. The gold coating on the pulley was burned into the underside of the center cover.