terminal numbers on S4 4 way seat switch?
05-10-2012, 02:48 PM
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
So outside the car I was able to get the switch back together and seems to be working when I bench tested it. In case anyone is interested this is the inside of the switch:
The ***** of peril:
You have to be real careful reassembling to get it snapped together without those ***** dropping off the springs.
Here is how the switch works:
When pressed the RED 12v goes to:
5 (black/grey) up
3 (black/violet) down
4 (black) left
6 (grey) right
In the case of left: when 2 (12v) shorts to 4, 1 (ground) to 4 opens
when the left is switched to 12v the right is switched to ground, and vice versa So when left is pressed 4 goes to 12v and 6 goes to ground.
(I might have left and right reversed above)
Hope that makes some sense and helps someone else diagnose their switch. In the end I could have probably cleaned this switch and gotten some more miles out of it but I ordered another from Roger. I'll keep this as a spare.
The ***** of peril:
You have to be real careful reassembling to get it snapped together without those ***** dropping off the springs.
Here is how the switch works:
When pressed the RED 12v goes to:
5 (black/grey) up
3 (black/violet) down
4 (black) left
6 (grey) right
In the case of left: when 2 (12v) shorts to 4, 1 (ground) to 4 opens
when the left is switched to 12v the right is switched to ground, and vice versa So when left is pressed 4 goes to 12v and 6 goes to ground.
(I might have left and right reversed above)
Hope that makes some sense and helps someone else diagnose their switch. In the end I could have probably cleaned this switch and gotten some more miles out of it but I ordered another from Roger. I'll keep this as a spare.
05-16-2012, 05:03 PM
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
Update on my fix:
I got the new switch from Roger. It was around $135 with the full harness. No soldering required: just pull out the old harness and attach the new. Now all of that is not as easy as it sounds. Advice for anyone trying it: definitely take the seat out. There is one connector that attaches the seat's electrics to the car and its easy to get out (at least in my case). I heard when its the first time the seats come out from the factory install they can be hard but mine were out for upholstery so it was a breeze. Its still hard to fish the wires through the seat innards but take your time and be patient. I ran out of daylight for the reinstall but almost there.
I guess my main piece of advice would be: try cleaning the contacts with electrical contact cleaner before tackling any of this. When that fails replace the switch with the harness.
I got the new switch from Roger. It was around $135 with the full harness. No soldering required: just pull out the old harness and attach the new. Now all of that is not as easy as it sounds. Advice for anyone trying it: definitely take the seat out. There is one connector that attaches the seat's electrics to the car and its easy to get out (at least in my case). I heard when its the first time the seats come out from the factory install they can be hard but mine were out for upholstery so it was a breeze. Its still hard to fish the wires through the seat innards but take your time and be patient. I ran out of daylight for the reinstall but almost there.
I guess my main piece of advice would be: try cleaning the contacts with electrical contact cleaner before tackling any of this. When that fails replace the switch with the harness.
