Front suspension overhaul?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
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Hi all
Car:
1990 RHD S4.
Issues:
Front left wheel is about 1/2" further rearward than front right, top ball joint has movement (movement not in wheel bearing) and car is pulling slightly to the left (all tyre pressures ok). This left pulling is a recent thing.
Questions:
1. Do I have to replace each upper control arm as a complete unit to replace each upper ball joint?
2. Can I get at the upper control arm nuts with the engine in (when engine was out recently I made sure these were all good and tight)
Other:
Any hints / tricks etc most welcome.
Thanks in advance
Car:
1990 RHD S4.
Issues:
Front left wheel is about 1/2" further rearward than front right, top ball joint has movement (movement not in wheel bearing) and car is pulling slightly to the left (all tyre pressures ok). This left pulling is a recent thing.
Questions:
1. Do I have to replace each upper control arm as a complete unit to replace each upper ball joint?
2. Can I get at the upper control arm nuts with the engine in (when engine was out recently I made sure these were all good and tight)
Other:
Any hints / tricks etc most welcome.
Thanks in advance
#2
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You will have to replace the entire upper arm as the joint is not replaceable by the typical home mechanic or repair shop. Save a few dollars and buy a rebuilt unit from 928 International. They are very high quality units for significantly less than OEM replacements from Porsche. It takes a little creativity but the nuts can be removed with the engine in place.
Mike
Mike
#3
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You can also use this kit:
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/balljointrepair.php
Edit: Just notice it is for 78-86 model. Sorry.
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/balljointrepair.php
Edit: Just notice it is for 78-86 model. Sorry.
Last edited by Bertrand Daoust; 04-24-2012 at 08:23 AM.
#4
Nordschleife Master
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Get rebuilt uppers front 928intl.
Yes these can be removed with engine in situ.
If one is that far forward/rear you need to check caster and or possibly put the car on a rack to see if something is twisted.
Yes these can be removed with engine in situ.
If one is that far forward/rear you need to check caster and or possibly put the car on a rack to see if something is twisted.
#5
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Dave
It's quicker if there are two of you - one working from above and one underneath. You can loosen the rear (IIRC) bolts from above with a long breaker bar and socket, and the front ones from below.
Then attack the rear bolts from below with your arm in front of the X member. vice versa for the front bolts arm behind the X member.
You will need a combination of long breaker bar or ratchet and a short ratchet to give you a larger swing once the nuts are loosened. Kincrome used to make a very good ratchet with three separate handles (steel tubes) of varying lengths that makes this job go easy.
It's quicker if there are two of you - one working from above and one underneath. You can loosen the rear (IIRC) bolts from above with a long breaker bar and socket, and the front ones from below.
Then attack the rear bolts from below with your arm in front of the X member. vice versa for the front bolts arm behind the X member.
You will need a combination of long breaker bar or ratchet and a short ratchet to give you a larger swing once the nuts are loosened. Kincrome used to make a very good ratchet with three separate handles (steel tubes) of varying lengths that makes this job go easy.
#6
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928sRus sell them as well (supplied by Mark) they are awsome and better than new.
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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#7
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I would look deeper. 1/2 inch is a lot. There maybe something bent. Use a tape to measure the toe in / toe out. With the car on the ground before jacking up put a level vertical on the wheel. It should be the same from side to side and very close to level with the bottom of the tire canted out a little.
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#8
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Thanks all for your input.
Plan of attack is something like:-
- on hoist, check for anything obvious, measure critical distances, recheck for 'slop'. Review.
- chassis / wheel alignment check to see if there is something else we've missed. Review
- buy and fit rebuilt upper control arm (sounds like fun), then...
- full wheel alignment
Cheers
Plan of attack is something like:-
- on hoist, check for anything obvious, measure critical distances, recheck for 'slop'. Review.
- chassis / wheel alignment check to see if there is something else we've missed. Review
- buy and fit rebuilt upper control arm (sounds like fun), then...
- full wheel alignment
Cheers