Won't start (fixed)
#17
Easy and cheap fix. Took the battery back, told them AAA told me it was dead. Just happens that it was still barely under warranty and they replaced it for free without even testing it. Popped it in and it started right up.
Finding the reason it drains is whole other can of worms. Since my whole interior is out, including parts of the dash, it could be one of a hundred connections.
Finding the reason it drains is whole other can of worms. Since my whole interior is out, including parts of the dash, it could be one of a hundred connections.
#19
Yes, but there is a method to locating the parasitic drain. I can help with that. I've found some pretty obscure ones. It's better to sleuth it together. Either that or install a battery switch.
#20
#21
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From: Silly Valley, CA
#22
#24
So the problem started again and Bill came to the rescue. We pulled the fuel pump relay and jumped it, but couldn't get it the fuel pump going, so I started removing the cover when all of a sudden it started whirring like a champ. Bill was in the cab pulling fuses and it turns out that the fuse wasn't blown, but corroded. He scrubbed off the corrosion, popped it back in and I'm back on the road. Embarrassing.
Thanks again Bill! It's always great to spend any amount of time with you. You're a 928 saint.
Looking forward to seeing you all on Saturday!
Thanks again Bill! It's always great to spend any amount of time with you. You're a 928 saint.
Looking forward to seeing you all on Saturday!
#25
Glad you replaced the battery. They can be dangerous. If an internal crack sparks and ignites the hydrogen, BOOM!
An intermittent battery is one sign of this potential issue. Sulfuric acid everywhere, battery bits spray out and onto whoever is nearby. Almost all new cars have a battery skirt to minimize this effect. Our cars have good protection down in the well, but be careful.
Dave
An intermittent battery is one sign of this potential issue. Sulfuric acid everywhere, battery bits spray out and onto whoever is nearby. Almost all new cars have a battery skirt to minimize this effect. Our cars have good protection down in the well, but be careful.
Dave
#27
The car turned over well but would not fire. So, as I told Travis, the first three things you should check are the relays. Like Jim Bailey said, "relay, relay, relay." Although the fuses are on the checklist too. I twiddled the fuel pump fuse - it looked somewhat corroded on the ends. I jumped the fuel pump relay socket - no fuel pump noise. I confirmed that pin 30 was getting 12V. So, I asked Travis to remove the fuel pump cover so we could apply 12V directly to it and check its ground connection. As he was doing that, I fiddled a bit more with the fuse and the relay socket and all of the sudden the pump came to whirring to life, and the car started easily several times. So, it appears to be just the fuse, but it could be a flaky relay socket.
Next we went hunting for the parasitic draw Travis believed he had, but I think his problem with the battery not staying charged was with the previous battery. I measured 20 ma. There may still be a problem there, but it wasn't there today.
I hope we got it, but there was enough corrosion of many of the electrical connections that other things might crop up until Travis addresses that.
Next we went hunting for the parasitic draw Travis believed he had, but I think his problem with the battery not staying charged was with the previous battery. I measured 20 ma. There may still be a problem there, but it wasn't there today.
I hope we got it, but there was enough corrosion of many of the electrical connections that other things might crop up until Travis addresses that.