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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 10:51 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by danglerb
Won't a non functioning air pump mean the cats run rich at startup, perhaps shortening cat life and/or heat issues?
Maybe but how many fully functioning pumps there are running anyway after 30 years. Almost none at all I bet. If removing internals kills other parts they were probably within inch of their dead anyway.
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 11:08 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Vilhuer
Maybe but how many fully functioning pumps there are running anyway after 30 years. Almost none at all I bet. If removing internals kills other parts they were probably within inch of their dead anyway.
Well, I wouldn't bet on none at all, sir. This thread attests to the fact that several have fixed theirs; I had the '85 re-built.
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 11:39 AM
  #18  
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There are many local 20 years old early catalytic converter S4 which have exact same engine as US model. Many of them have not had air pump in them for decade at least. Local yearly inspection is at least as strict and any US version I have ever heard of. AFAIK none of these cars have failed smog test. Almost all of them still use original converters. They fail if working pump is in place and it is not disconnected properly like it should when idle emission test is done. Too much oxygen in exhaust without blocking vacuum during test. I have very hard time believing 10 years older 16V technology is more prone to fail due to missing pump.
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 12:14 PM
  #19  
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Thanks U-928 and LEADASS, I'll be in contact!! AWESOME!!!
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 12:20 PM
  #20  
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That's interesting about the rebuilding. I was going to ask about that next. I will probably give it a try.
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 01:03 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Emickelsen
That's interesting about the rebuilding. I was going to ask about that next. I will probably give it a try.
I have a working pump from my 85. It's your for free if you need it, just pay for shipping.
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 03:49 PM
  #22  
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If you want to go with a new one i have one brand new, just the pump itself, lets say $50. You would be well advised to replace the exhaust check valve at the same time or else the pump will burn up in no time at all. The pump is just there to add more oxygen to the cats so that they oxidize hydrocarbons more efficiently, the added oxygen also increases the cat temp much faster than it would without. I don't need it seeing as my cats are gutted as well as the fact that i live in a rural area in Canada and am exempt from all emissions testing as long as the location of registration stays in the rural area.
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 04:51 AM
  #23  
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Catalytic converters reduce tail pipe emissions by up to 98%. Keeping the smog system in good working condition is just being a good citizen. Without a cat you pollute as much as 200 cars. CO and NOX are not nice things to breath.
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 11:10 AM
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I have an 89 ROW originating from Japan and without the air pump I would regularly get the "CAT TEMP TOO HIGH" message on the computer display. I've never got the message again since the air pump is back in service.
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 11:47 AM
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Does anybody have data on the volumetric capacity of the air pumps? This would be interesting to understand if someone was planning to fit a ProVent (which is off-topic, sorry)
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 08:02 PM
  #26  
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Anyone still have a working airpump? Mine went south.
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 08:06 PM
  #27  
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Sold my new one to martinss, or i would have.

I been thinking of using my old one as a scavenge pump for negative crankcase ventilation.
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 09:39 PM
  #28  
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I have a working air pump off my 87. PM if interested.
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 08:44 AM
  #29  
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I think I'm going to rebuild mine but gut it for the stock look and fan adjustment. Just the outer bearings needed? Anyone have a part number(s)? My car is a euro so no cats and I want to keep it all original. Thanks.
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 06:10 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by tilac999
I think I'm going to rebuild mine but gut it for the stock look and fan adjustment. Just the outer bearings needed? Anyone have a part number(s)? My car is a euro so no cats and I want to keep it all original. Thanks.
Its pretty straightforward.

Front bearing is: 6203RS
Rear bearing is: B-188 (roller bearing)

Don't bother with the needle bearings on the vanes unless the shafts or bearings have damage when you examine them - the small needle bearings are pretty expensive. I bought replacements for them, but didn't end up using any, as the originals were fine - so I just cleaned them and re-greased, and kept the new ones for future use.

Be careful not to break the edge off the sealing plate in there when taking it apart.

And lastly, once reassembled, it spins amazingly freely. It did take a few adjustments with a press to get the position right so that the vanes didn't bind on the casing when the rear was bolted back on. If there's any binding, open it up and fix it
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