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I suspect you will still need the zip ties. The wear item is the white plastic release tongue on the upper lock part. This is sprung, it latches on the receiver lip and is what the cam pushes on to unlatch the lock.
I have just installed a new rear hatch lock insert on the red car. The old insert was quite worn. Now it is working like a dream, pull the **** and the hatch releases immediately.
Åke
hey there, i'm having trouble closing my rear hatch, I've been trying to adjust it for hours and haven't been able to get it to close all the way and when i hold it down and close it with the key it sets off the alarm , any one els with this problem ?
I suspect you will still need the zip ties. The wear item is the white plastic release tongue on the upper lock part. This is sprung, it latches on the receiver lip and is what the cam pushes on to unlatch the lock.
Alan
Can anyone explain what the zip ties do to achieve correct activation?
The zip ties (I call them cable ties) compensate for wear on the working face so that the release lever can move it far enough to release the latch, and allow the hatch to open. Sometimes the problem of the remote release not working can be the nylon bush in the arm from the motor has disintegrated and there is too much slack. I have replaced one of these with a brass bush of 5mm ID, 7mm OD, 5mm wide as below.
2-56 screw and nut from a hobby shop.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
After much troubleshooting and squeezing into the back with the hatch closed to see what was going on while my daughter pulled the button. Motor spins, but the motor cap and lever do not spin. After dismantling the motor, I learned that the teeth on the inside of the cap have been completely worn down and thus the motor provides no torque to the lever arm. Is the motor cap with new teeth available as a new part?