Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

Need help with my rear hatch release

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-30-2012, 01:44 PM
  #1  
thezonster
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
thezonster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Scottsdale, Az
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Need help with my rear hatch release

I have an 86.5 928

When I pull up on the hatch release *****, with the rear cover removed, I can hear the latch release motor running, and see the litlle arm from the motor to the latch going up and down, but the latch does not release.

What is the issue here??
Old 03-30-2012, 01:55 PM
  #2  
Avar928
Rennlist Member
 
Avar928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,068
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Can you open the rear hatch with your key?

I have the same problem and I believe that the tongue is so worn out the release can't depress it down to open. You may want to check the alignment of the bottom half as well, it may be off.

Pop the hatch open and prop up the release know with a stack of coins or a key so it runs then watch the female part of the hatch and see if it's "clicking" too.

Last edited by Avar928; 03-30-2012 at 01:57 PM. Reason: + More
Old 03-30-2012, 02:39 PM
  #3  
WallyP

Rennlist Member
Rennlist Site Sponsor

 
WallyP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 6,469
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

Loosen the 10mm attaching bolts, snug back until you can barely slide the actuator up and down. Slide down and test - repeat until you can detect the motor slowing slightly - repeat, slightly - as it gets to the end of the stroke. Tighten the attach bolts and see if the hatch will now release. If not, you will need to shim the operating tongue so that it presses the plastic latch further open. The plastic latch piece is replaceable if it is worn.

Also check the hatch latch receiver for cracks. It is common for it to crack, and the movement is often enough to prevent the latch from releasing. The receiver can be replaced, but is expensive. You can sometimes shim the receiver to improve the latching angle. Loosen the receiver attach bolts and insert shims under one edge to change the angle.

Be careful to avoid messing up the opening switch at the bottom of the receiver.
Old 03-30-2012, 02:45 PM
  #4  
h011yw00d
Rennlist Member
 
h011yw00d's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Nashville
Posts: 583
Received 16 Likes on 14 Posts
Default

Hey Wally. I'm in the same boat. How do you shim the operating tongue? I've seen a post that suggests zip ties.
Old 03-30-2012, 03:00 PM
  #5  
Alan
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
Alan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 13,371
Received 398 Likes on 272 Posts
Default

Yes - Zip ties - use short & thin ones - make sure a smooth flat side is out & use multiple to cover a good portion of the release cam, (try one to see if it works - then if good, add the rest to ensure the wear is spread out). Cut the ends off and ensure the fastener portion is out of the way.

Take the motor off completely for access.

Here I have 3 black ones its worked for many years but if I were doing it again I'd add more - maybe 5 across the whole middle

Alan
Attached Images  
The following users liked this post:
dakrei (04-12-2020)
Old 03-30-2012, 04:09 PM
  #6  
h011yw00d
Rennlist Member
 
h011yw00d's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Nashville
Posts: 583
Received 16 Likes on 14 Posts
Default

Cool! Thanks, Alan.
Old 03-30-2012, 08:43 PM
  #7  
jpitman2
Rennlist Member
 
jpitman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 5,281
Received 48 Likes on 45 Posts
Default

Another cause I have seen - the arm from the motor to the release lever has a nylon/plastic bush where it connects to the lever. If this bush collapses, you can lose enough movement to prevent release. I have twice now (for others) fitted a brass bush in the eye of the arm (IIRC, 5mm ID, 7mm OD), filed off the casting on the lever where its peened over the arm, drilled the lever casting for a 2-56 screw, and retained the arm with a washer. I have spare bushes if anybody wants one....
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
Old 03-30-2012, 08:54 PM
  #8  
thezonster
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
thezonster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Scottsdale, Az
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

The key works fine from the outside.

I'll try this this weekend. Thanks
Old 03-30-2012, 09:01 PM
  #9  
Bilal928S4
Drifting
 
Bilal928S4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: New Canaan, CT
Posts: 2,871
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Another cause I have seen - the arm from the motor to the release lever has a nylon/plastic bush where it connects to the lever. If this bush collapses, you can lose enough movement to prevent release. I have twice now (for others) fitted a brass bush in the eye of the arm (IIRC, 5mm ID, 7mm OD), filed off the casting on the lever where its peened over the arm, drilled the lever casting for a 2-56 screw, and retained the arm with a washer. I have spare bushes if anybody wants one....
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
JP
Any pictures. I would be interested in the bushing and screw.
Thanks
Old 03-31-2012, 07:07 PM
  #10  
thezonster
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
thezonster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Scottsdale, Az
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Initial attempts not succesfull. In order to do the zip tie thing, it looks like the lower latch assembly needs to be removed/pulled up out of its socket.

When I remove the 2 lower latch assembly allen head hold down bolts, the lower latch assembly is all floppy in its receptical, but I cant pull it up and out to get access to it.

What am I missing??
Old 03-31-2012, 10:45 PM
  #11  
jpitman2
Rennlist Member
 
jpitman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 5,281
Received 48 Likes on 45 Posts
Default

You need to remove the operating lever from the motor....
Bilal, I have bushes, but no actual receiver. Will try to find a pic. Anybody have one they can post please? Is there a decent one in the wsm ?
In PET, illustration 803-05, item 11 is the receiver assembly, and 11 is pointing at the operating arm. The top end is where the nylon/plastic bush fails with heat and/or age. The end of the die cast rubbish-metal operating arm is peened over(technical term for bashed flat) to retain the arm&bush. I file this off and the arm will come off. A 2-56 screw is ~1/16" - hobby shop, look for Dubro parts, they do the screws, nuts, and drill and tap sets for things like this if you dont already have such. Also need a washer big enough OD to retain the arm, but small enough ID to be held by the screw head. In fact its not too difficult to release the whole arm and shaft from the receiver body to make it easier to work on separately.
If anybody has one with this bush failure, I will fix and take pics, if you can bothered posting it to Oz.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
Old 03-31-2012, 11:22 PM
  #12  
thezonster
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
thezonster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Scottsdale, Az
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

That was with the arm detached from the motor, it wont pull up and out.
Old 04-02-2012, 02:29 AM
  #13  
jpitman2
Rennlist Member
 
jpitman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 5,281
Received 48 Likes on 45 Posts
Default

Have you disconnected the wire off the bottom of the plunger?
jp
Old 04-02-2012, 02:42 AM
  #14  
jpitman2
Rennlist Member
 
jpitman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 5,281
Received 48 Likes on 45 Posts
Default

Bilal, do a search on ebay for the part no (92851205520), and there is a finished sale, with a couple of pics. One shows nearly a side view, and you can see where the lever attaches to the arm, what looks like a small hole in the middle - thats where the casting is peened over to retain the arm. I file off that stuff, and drill/tap through the hole for a 2-56 screw, with a washer.
hth
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
Old 04-02-2012, 03:17 AM
  #15  
Alan
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
Alan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 13,371
Received 398 Likes on 272 Posts
Default

You do not need to remove the lower hatch receiver - only the motor.

Alan


Quick Reply: Need help with my rear hatch release



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 06:56 AM.