h011yw00d

Zip ties worked for me too. Now I guess all I have to complain about is all the compliments I get on the car.

Zonster try Mark Benton at mark@theninesource.com to see if he has any hatch parts left. He may have some lying around.

thezonster

I saw a post somewhere for a repair of the lower nylon grommet using hardware store bits. Can't find it now though.

waynestrutt

look here

http://www.servocity.com/html/2-56_b...t_linkage.html

jpitman2

I think you will find that the lower nylon ball link part is made to snap into the eye of the link arm. You might modify one of the model parts by binding it to link rod....
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k

WallyP

Go to the best local parts store and look at the "Help!" parts section. They have various bits to solve problems.
If you have a local body shop supply store (auto paint store), they usually have a rack full of misc plastic bits.

thezonster

Thanks

syoo8

Alan- I tried your zip-tie method and it worked like a charm.

Great, great suggestion!

ThetaTau87

I just used the zip-tie method to fix my hatch release that would cycle but not unlatch. I found it much easier to remove the latch receiver from the body in order to wrap the zip-ties around the release cam. I was able to remove the latch receiver without removing the motor, but with the zip-ties on the cam I was not able to reinstall it until I removed the motor. Once the receiver was back in place I reinstalled the motor.

Here are some pics of the 5 zip-ties I wrapped around the cam.

I staggered the ties so that I could fit 5 across.


Then I trimmed off the excess.


Some very light filing was needed to clearance the receiver housing where the ties were interfering with it.


A word of caution when releasing the connecting link between the motor and the release cam, use a screwdriver to very carefully pry/pop the arm off the socket on the motor. If you put too much pressure on the arm when popping it off you can break off the peened over part of the release cam that retains the arm at the top. The first time I released the arm from the motor I used my finger and pushed too hard. When the socket popped loose I moved the arm too far and broke off the mushroomed over part of the release cam. I fixed it by putting the washer and bushing back in place then using a philips head screwdriver to expand the metal of the release cam enough to retain the arm. I put a couple washers between the cam arm and the body of the hatch receiver so that when I tapped on the screwdriver with a hammer the cam arm did not break off.

Pic of the mark left by the philips screwdriver on the cam arm.

jpitman2

I have repaired a couple of these release arms - sometimes the nylon bush in there breaks up and provides enough slack to stop the release working. I have some bushes made of brass, and I retain the arm as below..2-56 screw and nut from a hobby shop.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k

westija

Reviving this one. 1989 S4 5 speed with alarm. My hatch release was not working and I proceeded to disassemble it to inspect and replace the plastic white Tongue.

I found that the steel structure where the entire mechanism is assembled is broken. I cannot find its part number and seems I will have to buy the entire Hatch Lock (comes with the lock, tongue and everything else), which is quite expensive. Does anyone have a used one laying around that you are interested in selling? Or do you know if I can source just the steel structure ?

The pother problem I have is that the white plastic tongue is secured by a Pin (item # 21) that seems to have been hammered after install to stay in place and now when I try to drill it out, it rotates with the drill and it does not bite into it. Any ideas?

Many thanks in advance

jpitman2

That sounds like a roll pin - flat strip of metal tightly rolled, with a slit along it. These are meant to be tapped out with a drift (pin of suitable dia). I think you will find the broken part is diecast, of pretty poor quality - not repairable IMHO. Cant help with a spare.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k

Randy V

Drilling out the flared end is easiest - like removing a rivet.

Shark2626

..

Shark2626

..

jpitman2

In the last pic, under the washer is a nylon bush. I have seen one of these collapse and break up, causing so much lost motion that the release fails to work. I made up a brass bush (IIRC 7mm OD, 5mm ID, 5mm long). To replace it required filing off the peening of the die cast link. I drilled the post where the bush fitted for a 2-56 screw (R/C model shop), and secured it with a nyloc nut. Works fine.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k